325_driver

@Jacko I thought the crank case was slightly negative vaccum? Depending on compression ring wear

@M3AN mate seriously considering it. Maybe this cars unique feature is this tiny bit of oil consumption. I just need to deal with it as a fellow BMW owner. Besides If I fix this problem another one will probably pop up. Better the devil you know I suppose

@zero check out the listing views? 34,000++ must all be from bimmersporters ?

? tread carefully hahahah - you living on da edge g i've just been reading some heated threads on that topic lol I would love to wait 20,000km, but i can see the colour of my oil as it leaks out of my intake haha, and its starting to look a bit too dark for my liking (changed 7,000km ago) I dont have a dip stick, just an oil leak to help me gauge oil condition

@Jacko I have one of those ISTA plugs coming, so maybe booting up some software might be able to give me better insight surely if theres oil heading in, i would expect to see it in fuel trim / limits or something it's just not enough to trigger check engine light or something

@sweetm3 yeah the first CCV that failed, i could see oil leaking through like all runners, and when i took the manifold off there was anywhere between 50ml-100ml of oil sloshing round in there. I had the manifold off again when i was trying to diagnose it, and there was still some oil in there, atleast 10% of it, it wasn't a river of oil like before, but there was definitely some oil. i can see 2-3ml of oil built up underneath the 2nd intake runner forming a drip, and it returns everytime i wipe it and go for a drive. I'm just wondering if by poor design they just might not remove all the oil in the separator and still send some through to the intake? I just don't feel comfortable with that conclusion unless someone else has had the same issue really. Just trying to identify the likely hood of my new CCV having a pin hole in it or something, that's enough to cause a bit of oil coming through.

@sweetm3 so i'm not the only one with mysterious oil build up? If i'm not alone, i may just live with it? lol

@zero yes, and double checked them when I put it all back in. Can a leak in one of those hoses lead to oil into intake? Just trying to understand how oil is finding it's way past the CCV into the intake still as it's unlikely my OEM new CCV failed, albeit plausable I suppose.

@Jacko yeah had a bendy wire brush with hand towels wrapped round it.

So i'm hoping to pick someones brain understands maybe how the CCV system works on the N52 engine, 1. First original CCV was definitely poked, when i opened it up i could see small tears in the diaphragm, and oil was puddled in the intake manifold, replaced that, and seemed to fix the oil consumption problem / lean codes etc. 2. Then i saw oil building up in the same place, puddling down the engine, this was the oil pressure sensor, fixed that, engine was bone dry for a bit wahoo. Then today i had a look down there, and i saw a very minimal amount of oil, built up, leaking from the intake manifold seal and making its way down the head. Really i'm just trying to ascertain if a small amount of oil residue in the intake is pretty normal, the oil level doesn't appear to be moving (like it was) So to summarize, 1. No codes 2. Plenty of power, no rough idle, first start is perfect 3. 2-3ml of oil under the intake runners after 40km trip Before i buy a smoke tester, and start chasing ghosts, i'm just trying to understand the system a bit better, and if this is normal i'm just going to live with it a) Does anyone know whether the CCV requires negative vaccum from the crank return pipe to function 100%? it's possible it's not clicked on100%, but theres no oil leaking down there, i've checked. b) Does the CCV remove all oil? Hoping for some insight, Cheers all

Just got rid of the error and reset the brake warning interval. For future reference if anyone else is wondering, I read a few places that, apparently if the yellow warning light doesn't come on then the old sensor is re-usable, but i can confirm that this is not entirely the case. It would appear that the computer obviously has a range of resistances that it would qualify as a "new" brake pad sensor that it would accept. I.e. i reset the light by bridging the pins with a paper clip at the plug, no errors on the car then when i plugged the old sensor in (which triggered no warnings on the old pads, still 4,000km to go) and it threw up the red hoist inspection light straight away. So in the end i ended up just bridging the two wires, and all is well. I wish i knew how touchy it was, as i've made about 5 separate orders @ RM european / FCP and they cost F all over there, vs 50 @ part master and quoted $80 at the dealer. So lesson being, if you do your own maintenance, always have spare new rear/front brake pad sensors in the inventory. Does anyone know if it is a legal requirement for those sensors to be present? i.e. if it were removed entirely by bridging it neatly at the box permanently? @Eagle do the kms on the service interval still countdown correctly without the sensor?

@Eagle Thats sort of why I was saying it, even so if someone let's brake pads get that low it would suggest they haven't visited a wof or mechanic ever lol Besides I didn't even think the rotor touched the sensor until the pads get down to like 3mm it would look like and then it starts wearing on the sensor. Or is sensor usually the same thickness as the new brake pads when they are new?

Ill probably end up replacing it, but for the sake of curiosity Is it possible to reset the brake pad wear service interval and then re use the old sensor as it's in good condition. Do you jump the two wires to reset it, and then install the old sensor? Just wondering if anyone has done it. Cheers

Hate to fix up the paint job on that 3 stage pearl. I like the colour of those calipers!

Yeah I bled it again today. It feels alot better but it's so hard to know if it's softer. And the new pads I put in could give it a different feel I'm told. The valve definitely works, tested it by entering air in the exit and it stopped at the backpass valve. When the car is off it's stiff as anything like before now which is a positive sign. Before It would lose stiffness and I would have to pump to regain it. Just no idea what it was like before with the car running. I think for sake of it I'm going to order one of those INPA plugs and do it anyway. Can't hurt to do it. Also, check this collection of brake dust out

Well bed the pads in today they got some nice bite now. The instructions said 10 stops 130km to 30km, so did a bit of illegal Nascar up my road. Drove into town after and didn't rear end anyone so that's good. But I'm pretty sure it feels a little bit more spongy than before so might go hard bleeding it again. When the car is off I have to pump it once and then it's firm, so I guess that's a sign there is air somewhere in there, but at least it's drivable.

@zero when the car is off, i press once and its soft to half, and then press again it's firm, sounds like air in the system? @M3AN aw man i hope not, i was trying my hardest to not let much fluid out so i didn't have to bleed it, as you need a plug + computer software to initiate the bleed procedure. Had the hoses all gloved up anyway, and fluid reservoir hadn't moved much in the time i had the calipers off. going to take the car for a drive tomorrow, and then bleed it again, see if theres maybe some hidden air in the system that needs to come out

Took it for a drive, everythings spinning freely, no grinding noises, no engine lights I can't remember how firm the pedal should be when the engine is running, but i feel like it could be a bit spoungy'er (might just be my paranoia though after having the calipers off) Not much fluid left the system when i had the calipers off, so it can't be air in the ABS How will i know if i have correctly bled the system? The car seems to stop pretty quickly, is there any risk say maybe if i haven't bled the system 100% correct will the pedal just feel not as firm? i'd say I can push the pedal in between 1/4 -> 1/3 at ease without having to exert a bit of leg power. Can new pads just feel a bit different? Anyone else had similar experience? Cheers

Have bled the system - Is it normal for tight rotors after new pads? I can still turn the wheel, but it's definitely kissing the new pads, and alot tighter than i remember. I'm assuming that after taking it for a slow drive, and pumping the brakes a bit, the calipers / pads will seat a bit better? When installing i checked the floating caliper moved freely, everything is definitely tight, and pads are seated correctly. Cheers

@sweetm3 provided it does this round I don't care haha. Some people on Ali were saying just hit it a bit to fix it when it seizes lol

Everyone should own one of these $3 things from Ali Express. I only bought it for the backpass valve included. And thought I would go black on these things, less brake dust to worry about on silver colour

@zero I AM ESTORIL BLUE

Needed to be done. Got a nice prove on some WOKING pads too. Not much meat left on the old ones !

@zero https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M60_M62_M62TU_Engine_Cooling_System.htm You're going to have no dramas at all man, 100 should be sweet i've seen plenty of other people use normal BC/CC on BMW rocker covers, mainly m20's but maybe they operate slightly cooler

@zero What's the engine? i'll do some googling, or you could drive round to someone with an infared temp gun just to check that paint will handle to 110-120deg - but honestly im sure that 4age has got hotter than that just keep repainting it ever 3 years if it peels g ? all part of vehicle maintenance