Eagle

Id class it as a family car and i doubt many if any 4 cylinder family cars making 450nm

No idea about the suspension but its good value for the coin

Pads didnt come to mind, i guess i always assume people are always running oem equivlant's or better. I had oem Jurid pads and good fluid on the 740il and had no issues on the same track over 4 or 5 laps so whatever they are they must be lacking a bit.

Sounds like you should of changed your brake fluid or even better used racing brake fluid.

While its no bargain i think the price is acceptable if everything checks out and nothing needs attention. The km dont really mean too much, if anything by 250,000 a lot of suspension, cooling system parts should have been replaced, unlike a 100-200,000 car which they may or may not have been.

Why do you want to swap? Converting it to manual will make it a better car and increase value.

Wonder why he sold it so cheap

Does if its had loose spray bar bolt\s at some point in its life

Should be fine then

You dont want to replacing the chain guides\chain unless they are quite worn as its a completely different job to removing the head. Once you have to head off you will be able to see clearly the wear on the guides from the grooves and check the chain sprocket and tensioner for wear, both of which are easily replaced. If you have to do the guides a new chain id probably get a new chain at the same time for piece of mind. How many km has the engine done?

Id check the wear on the rockers,cam ecentrics and test the valves for leakage before decided if they needed replacement. If they check out then id just do valve guides and valve springs along with the cam and leave it at that unless you dont mind spending the money on replacing everything for piece of mind\longevity A 2nd hand motor is around $500 and you'd still have to check the condition of that one, another motor may have other things worn that your one may not, timing chain & components come to mind

Most ive seen are 15k-25k. Ive seen this around Hamilton quite a bit and it sure is one of the best ive seen but i think for 35k you'd have to really want one

All depends on your use. Being in Hamilton and working out of town mine gets a good run and acceptable mileage so this would probably be superior to any 2k E30\E36 for me.

Ive always thought wood trim looked nice 90's 5\7 series as well. Couple of from my E32's

I used Nolathane brand bushes before and i ended up machining the original sway bar brackets down to fit them in. Ive only ever had to do with them out of the many brands ive used. Usually gone with Powerflex myself from ebay or NZAD Poly sway bar links usually only come with swaybar kits as they normally attached differently compared to std bmw bars. Adjustable links would a better option as they should be stronger and you can adjust preload but overkill imo for a std street car.

Maybe the people who are actually clued up or have first hand experience, cant say the same for the average person.

Im sure a google search would turn up something, but i think most people just bin them when they fail and replace them with new shocks and springs as ron said.

Probably because NZ is gay for Toyota and think just because it is one its more reliable than anything and never breaks down.

Ive fixed many E34 shimmies by having best wheels on front ie swap fronts and back around.

My first jack is an old powerbuild 3 ton which was 300-400 at the time i bought, 7 years old and its still works sweet but its not a low profile so have to use factory jack to get some height first. Ive never had any issues with powerbuilt stuff myself but its probably not to consistent quality wise.

If you cant do the work yourself or find someone will do it cheap it may not be worth it seeing as how running 528i's are exactly expensive. In saying that you wont get much for a broken one either unless you keep it around and try to part it out which is hit and miss.

Reason myself prefer a manual myself isnt just being able to change gear when i want, its the versatility and reliability also. You may possibly be the first on this forum to try the software and have probably researched it more than any of us?, so if you are limited to the auto then i don't think you have anything to loose by trying it

Ive taken my E34 a few times to Hampton since ive had it without any issues. Ive been running oem pads with new race brake fluid and it handles the usual 5-8 lap stints easy. When i drive an E38 740il on the Taupo track it had no problems either with the same as above, the braking actually felt alot better than the E34.

Pretty obvious i would of thought, they look very out of place.

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