Eagle

+1 Never knew wide+blacked out looked so bad

If i wanted one id buy Jamez's one for 13k. I think as long as you buy a good example with everything good working order then it wouldnt give you much grief apart from the fuel bill.

Get some good race fluid like Motul RBF600 and some decent front pads like Pagid S,RS blues,1166's etc, shouldnt cost you more than $500 and the rest of car should handle providing its upto standard. My experience tracking 5\7 series BMW's ive never had any real brake issues doing the usual 5\6 lap stints, most have pretty standard cars with race brake fluid & OEM pads and i dont show any mercy. While your 540i aint going to break any records your driving skill counts a good chuck too. Ive shown up quite a few should be faster cars with my 80's luxury sedan and had people come upto me surprised by it, i dont regard myself as the best around but ive always pushed to the limit and never held back.

Personally id be wanting at least a '82\83 635csi with the E28 suspension and the stronger M30 engine, parts & upgrades would be alot harder to get otherwise.

Have a good working sword resistor and the rest of those parts. PM if you like.

I think 17x8's on an E34 are the way to go, good balance between looks,performance and comfort. Tyres are around the same price also or even cheaper than 16's but not as expensive or harsh as 18's.

Ive always thought that wear rating numbers are only accurate when comparing tyres of the same manufacturer. Wouldn't surprise me if RE002 are better in the dry than 050's as they are summer performance tyre and newer tech.

Yeah that is low, mine are 220. Sounds like 002's would better in that case.

Ive done 14,000km on my 050A's since new and thats including 3 track days and plenty of hard street cornering running 2 degrees camber front and rear with toe-out in rear. While I haven't measured the tread depth it looks to be at least 3\4mm left. A haven't tried the RE002 but these have been the best street tyres ive used for what they cost me, the 050A's have higher load index than RE002 which one of the reasons i went with them. Im running 235\45\17 with 97 index and sidewalls very solid.

$32 a litre last time i bought some from dealers a couple of years back

Easy to do. If you google e38 SLS or self leveling suspension delete there's plenty of write ups, you will need new shocks & springs obviously, mounts and a few other little bits from a std strut

A 540i manual touring would be even more rare...

Buy cheap sell cheap I think its priced well considering the market for a V12

E34 are electrics are pretty basic compared to newer 5 series etc and in my experience are very reliable. The heater resistor seems to be the most common thing that needs to be replaced as the average owner is usually doesn't when it fails. Interiors are good quality, only problems that can happen are the usual headlining sagging & sometimes the door card trim coming unglued

So you really paid a few thousand for a head gasket job and some other bits? While i dont know the details it sounds like you got taken to the cleaners.

Get your parts overseas from pelican parts etc, cheap as and still readily available. Self leveling is easy enough to delete, ive ended up putting new shocks all round on most E34 ive owned as most have been worn or just on rubbish Lance's E34 looks nice thou

Ordered this a couple of mths ago and only just received it but now i do not require it. Im selling at what it cost me to get it into NZ. Good upgrade, maybe someone on here will benefit from it http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...970&ed=true

Good thing about about E34\E32's is you can plug and play many options, all the wiring\plugs are there for cruise control so you just need to find a stalk, actuator\throttle cable and computer and plug it all in. Lots of benefits in owning an E34 over a E39.

Guessing it was fine before you installed the new thermostat?

I assumed he was talking about stock vs stock, modified its anyone's game.

Both have their advantages but if you are wanting the faster track car then E36

As said it should remain at 12 o'clock position once its upto operating temp, where is it sitting and\or decreasing to? Only time ive seen the temp gauge move on the BMW's ive owned is a couple of needle widths hotter but thats driving on the track in summer time.

RE001 were a decent tyre and im sure RE002 are good but id also consider them to be at the lower end when it comes to the Potenza tyre range, we seem to miss out on alot of the other options here in NZ.

Just start with an alignment as the info it gives you can tell you a lot and its probably most likely thing. If it doesn't solve it then you can eliminate it being that and look at other things mentioned

Fixed