No name user

and when its all in and running as the saying goes "life begins at 20psi"

could be a bargain too

they appear to be the real thing they normally go for 350 or so

yes correct just make sure you oversize the manifold bolt holes to the head to allow movement or it ll keep braking studs

yep works good dude try to get them to come off at a 45 deg angle in relation to flow but you can only do what room allows

thats a s300/200 if im not wrong what happened to the to4z? you not going to use the cast manifolds and turn them upside down and two separate pipes to each scroll? im doing 6-2-1 also since i stood the motor up i have a ton more room to work with plus the pipe off the turbo is 4" and thatll still pass the steering and motor.

when your ready i want to go over your setup

+1 on that even if its made from mild steel its 1000 times safer than any cast flywheel thats been hacked up.

knowing what your trying to do with the m50 the m20 is a waste of time and lighting flywheels isnt a smart thing to do if you like your feet and legs , plan ahead and you'll be better off in the long run.

i made a billet flywheel and used a ring gear off a v6 holden and fitted the bigger m30 clutch then use the 11 tooth pinion starter

Oh and im on the hunt for a tial wastegate or a good branded one, if anyone has one or knows where the cheapest ones are please share youll need a 46mm gate hunt around you can pick them up for around 350, or turbosmart

you can pickup ev14 bosch inj on ebay for around 340us and they drop straight in, as for your manifold the chinese things arnt the best and cheap it depends if you want to soend the time making one or try mike at sinco customs down hamilton does a good job.

evo injectors are 11mm bosch 14mm youll need to make an adaptor for the fuel rail and manifold

with both the autronic and the motec ive used they both gave a better crank signal once ive removed the teeth to 3 on the crank it also depends on what rpm you run to, if below 6k it still works but gets confusing for the ecu over that.

from memmory you can use a Nissan rb ignitor? you'll also need to machine the crank pulley to suit and another two or three pickups for the cam sensor depending on how smart the link is.

Sounds about right i use 15% for rear wheel and 20% for a four wheel or two wheel auto. So taking a m5 286hp factory spec motor would be 248-238 wheel or 185-177kw wheel again sounds about right, again just a number the track or a stop watch tells all.

you may need some link sensors and check of the link can read the crank/cam triggers ok wouldn't worry about the knock setup if the tuner knows what hes doing to start with you wont get knock unless something fails and the 02 again just for tuning or if you want to do data logging and change things yourself.

OMG SPINNING RIMS !!!!!!!! hahahah mate had some on his rolla now that was sad

thats a good result dave the 535 i did had headers/stock exhaust and stock everything else and the mapecu and a hour road tune no dyno making 140.7kw wheel and no drop off up top be interesting with a few extras what i could have done, still each to their own and for under 1k for the mapecu cant complain. so whats the maf/w.a.r chip cost? 1000nz with shipping and gst plus the dyno if you need to sort out issues another 5-800? i guess like all kw/hp numbers if cant drive or are just a poser the numbers arnt worth the paper their written on.( not directed at you dave ) but make funny youtube watching

with the exchange rate seriously give ebay a once over youll be amazed whats there and compared to whats being asked here along with hawk race pads the blues or hp plus around 100us a set

yes to all thats a cheap way to do a turbo using j pipes and works pretty dam good and your now thinking the smart way by planing ahead, the steel gasket is fine to start with until you build a more serious motor then things change somewhat the ARP stud kits are around 80us and you can pick them up cheap on EBAY. you can get away with a single 46mm gate and tap into both up pipes at a 45 deg angle you should have enough room to do so if you mount it further forward, the exhaust is where it gets tight but as i said before of you can stand the motor up it well worth the extra room to run one.

in the real world on the engine dyno it made 700n/a and after running the world super boat champs( greame hill is the owner) in it and turning it up to 18psi it now makes 1350hp in the real world he finished 5th 1.2 seconds behind 1st place, not bad for a first time around were now doing a vq57 its 40kgs lighter than the present vq. a n/a version for the carb 4ltr stock car setups push 560hp at 10,500 the guy building the engines is Brian Hartley as in Brendon Hartley F1 driver which im sure most have heard of which were also doing a Bonneville car running in August this year a little turbo mini sorry for the name dropping but that's just how it is.

the biggest issue with remapping is you need the software to do it or someone that has it and your limited to what you add on and the remap wont allow afm removal the mapecu allows the owner to do many many things when ever they wish without going back and spending more just for a small change. the mapecu allows you control over fuel/ignition and duel tables launch control flat shifting data logging etc etc etc and the stock ecu wont do that, and as Brent has found the final tune is only as good as the tuner to how good it comes out which applies to all tuning but you can atleast have control over it your self with out reflashing costs. you get so much more to play with using the mapecu over the reflash then again i dought youll go any other way but a reflash

forgive if im seeing this wrong but did the brake line get made from steel or copper? you cant cert copper tubing anymore according to LTSA