No name user

it all comes down to what diaphragm is used whats more important is surface area as in bigger diameter or multi clutch plates.

pretty much everyone of those Chinese crap turbos ive seen and what advertised are the same spec,you would think if anything is worth coping you would at-least be more creative or improve on the original.

t3/4 is like saying you own a Toyota Honda BMW etc but not saying what model, there's over 2500 combos you can have with them rated from 80hp to 650hp so can be done but not with Chinese knock off versions. 500 at the flywheel would be correct cant say i would push it any further on stock internals and 400 is safe still cheap engine you can just chuck another in if its not happy or build a strong one from the start.

if you work for eastern they play with blowers on poor mans bmw aka: holdens sorry had to have a dig at holden :lol:

Off topic, I have an E34 with M20b25 that has been through 2 heads, have now parked it up and am tracking down an M50 to turbo, have a garret T3/T4 and megasquirt sittin around and ability to fabricate almost anything at work and do the machining of the engine, you say you can get 20psi/500hp out of a complete stock unit as long as detonation is controlled through a tune? id be more than happy with less than 500hp What would you suggest Crunchy since you have just completed or near completion of your build? How much HP is your goal for what you have done to yours? i cant tell you how yours will come out unless im tuning it im sure nzefi or whoever down your way will fit the bill, you cant compare with my build with components im using over a thicker head gasket im after a tad more than 500

By increasing the dynamic/effective comp ratio you don't waste more air a turbo engine of any sorts is load dependent thus no load no boost that's how trucks work and they don't run boost control the turbo is sized to suit but when carrying a load or under load up hill boost comes on so no you don't waste air or fuel plus anything off boost its tuned to suit and becomes n/a as such. and again dropping comp is giving protection against det if there's an issue but you do lose thermal bang for money off boost,again not wasting. You'll never find a math calc to know how much overlap is effective that's not how you pick a cam but the bigger the cam the greater the effect, again you dial a cam based on center line as per spec but that's a starting point as long as you have safety clearance of .100" exh and .080" intake piston to valve on overlap you can more the center line to find the sweet spot but that must be checked when putting it together. Example: with stock cams around 218@50 you may get 180-200 psi with compression test using say 225@50 youll drop down to around 140-160psi but changing centre line you gain or lose accordingly again calculator wont tell that number. theres free hp in any cam timing including stock, At the end of the day the motor will decide what you get not the calculator......

I know not everyone do things the same way but big thick head gaskets is a very bad way to drop comp, it increases the flame pattern across the piston causing the top ring to bite and can increase detonation as there is very little control over flame travel across the piston also your increasing the squish band hurts power, my m50 i had custom pistons made and retain the fire ring/squish but increased the bowl area to reduce comp, before you get too carried away 10-1 with the correct tune can run 20psi on pump gas can make you 500hp when you drop comp too much you'll lose boost response and thermal bang for you dollar. Another way to reduce effect comp is bigger cams or on stock increasing overlap, the guys i deal with in the land big hp BMW's are running over 500hp easily on a stock m50 with only 1bar, as Ive always said just cause its a BMW you don't need to do anything different than any other engine brand all common engine building principals apply. if your going to make a copper head gasket you have to use the correct material type and it has to be soft as butter and 100% annealed they also tend to leak around the water ways also o ring the block using 1mm stainless wire sticking up no higher than 7-9 thou or it ll push the head, also use cap screws if you cant afford studs.

and its tuned up ok?

just try it andrew if it works great if not as per above timing cover or i also drill into the block

do i need to ask?

i wouldnt have thought the dme as the injectors are group fired unless its wiring related

pull each ignition lead off as its running to see which cly is the issue i would also check injector plugs or possible injector on the missing cly, also change spark plug just in case

sorry guys dont have one of those as much as their a good n/a engine wont be up to my punishment, and lack of responce from nusins i would say at a guess ive scared him off lol

thought as much his dreams to do this is something different and with lots of carbon/glass and a strong n/a s50 would be a fun class car, im doing mine to prove a few special people wrong dont care about where i run it

with a so called not a problem budget then dump the motor and use a s50b32 but don't be too disappointed with the sc14 as they wont make you anything close to 400hp they dont deliver that sort of cfm no matter what you do. now what this class your running in? silverfox should correct me here but unless its alpina based and single cam forced induction of anything else isnt a go thus why it class would be more like gt1/gt2 or just club day depending on tires used.

first off ( to which i dont know why i bother ) the clutch is just a Toyota thing and under higher load pulls high current and fails it may also my to check its displacement verus engine size it was only every intended for a 2ltr and max rpm the blower was designed for. if your going FI of any configuration thats how the engine should be built including compression and if budget isnt an issue then why go down that road to start with,vortex work fine for raod cars but they suffer from bearing failer from prolonged high rpm use thus what a race car would endure. look forward to see the outcome cause itll be the class mine will run in( to which i didnt know the bmw series allows for).......plus a few others.

the sc14 wont come anywhere near that power level you would need to use a sprintex or similar but from the looks way out of your budget

at the moment you'll get lost forever with the work sitting there to be done

if your after good numbers then idle up isn't high on the cards, ive put stupid big cams in mine and it wasn't bad with stock ecu but now with an autronic well that's a different story. how about a m50b20 making 300hp n/a? be different its an engine like any other you want performance treat it accordingly thus why ive done my own thing there's too much of a mind set with bmw owners

yourve been told before about what not or to do with the blower including specs but you choose not to listen so best of luck

Theres many options you can pick to improve intake resrictions and removing a afm for a maf to gain 10hp you have to consider the dollar factor, using a piggyback ecu like A MAPECU3 etc allows going to a speed density setup thus no meter and you can do many more things with it and no reflashing needed giving better gains for dollar spent.

the radius of the trumpets is 1.5 times the runner diameter and the length is calculated on rpm i want to run to which is 8500 the angle of entry is pretty much determind by the room factor to which as you can see similar to stock, theres nothing wrong with the stock manifold just wont handle lots of boost shame they never made them in ally. I have plenty of real world calculations i use if anyone interested for both n/a and forced induction. And yo Mr Ray ill come pay you a visit and lets get this Hellbm weapon cranking itll turn some heads

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i maybe wrong but its looks like gav pipe which is illegal and wont meet MANZ tech and your not allowed to grind welds and need a certied welder to do the job.

very nice install got to love that sound