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top answer dude

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what did they charge to powder coat your wheels?

im with polley fix before you re-tune it and dont do a re-flash if you have no idea what you've ended up with there's no point spending more money, you can cc the motor without pulling it apart once you know the effective compression then move forward. Ive tuned a few 2.7 cant say they went any better than a stock 2.5 there's an ecu made here as a complete stand alone called ECS made by the ex founder of link and retails at 1300 thus why don't bother with the re-flash you'll get more for your money and have better control over whats needed.

but like most ecu's its outcome is only as good as the tuner

mapecu removes any AFM as such i have a rough idea how it works since i helped design it

you can also use m50 135mm rods and mitsi evo pistons works good for forced induction

Maybe I should turbo my s50b32 . . . . yes yes yes yes yes yes yes pleeeeeaaaaaaasssssssseeeeee

, BMW with BMW internals is that much more special.... that's exactly what i thought is was all about proving a point shame would have gotten a lot more support from the BMW family if they went down that road but in saying that your car in its own right Michael is pretty dam good.

+1 and a s50b32 on steroids would have been a better pick

every fuel reg whether it be turbo car or n/a use the same type of reg

wont know till we tune

opps sorry i feel asleep reading that haha

cant say that surprises me with air needs lots of fuel thus why i said the try using a AFC plus pump needs changing and timing retatrded

its more about removing poor flow areas taking material out when not needed reduces port flow

http://autospeed.com/A_110294/cms/article.html http://autospeed.com/A_110295/cms/article.html

b/v on turbo cars are open at idle but no boost and the turbo as much as its load dependent is still producing low volumes of air thus vacuum is the issue, sorry dont mean to be ott but this is what i do 24/7 for the last 30yrs i hate seeing people given misleading advise

i did mention all that but those blowers arent the greatest and bearings fail with over-speed the biggest issue is the blowers too small based on engine displacement even the 2ltr version for the Toyota is still to small for 3ltr plus, common failure is from increasing blower speed max psi on the 4agze was 11psi with the overdrive kit. Screw blowers are the way to go being able to run over 30,000rpm from mem the eaton of the Toyota has a max 11,000rpm pullies are sized from there,

every motor uses a different vacuum level thus the adjuster on top

A b/v open at idle generates a larger than normal maf signal thus the car runs richer, its engine vacuum thats opening the b/v airflow for the blower is controlled by throttle opening thus when they are closed no boost you need to plumb the b/v back between the maf and the blower thus the maf wont see the air leak. Having the blower switched on all the time makes no odds as turbos/blowers that are directly driven all the time again the throttle regulates the boost adjust the top screw on the b/v until its just closed at idle and see what that does for it remember the stock ecu/dme has no idea what boost means but it does pickup on any air leaks.

try this pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure reg start the car DO NOT DRIVE, block the line with your finger and blip the throttle if the response better then either up the fuel pressure with an adjustable reg or get a apexi AFC to alter the maf signal that should remove the flat spot

the reason you have a flat spot is due the poor signal the maf gets being that far away try blowing though the maf it can also then compensate for charge air temps

were have you mounted the maf?

correct all that's required is to feed the catch can breather back behind the filter into the intake as such that doesn't require any electronics stock or other wise, oil air separator is the better catch can to run