No name user

i have my own knock monitor and use a wideband plus knowing how to read plugs is very important, you also need to know that no much or not enough fuel can create knock. spark isnot the only thing you need to worry about and since yourve never tuned before i recomend you get someone that has or youll learn that the "big bang theory" isnt just a tv show.

it doesnt matter what gear your in det is det and shouldnt be there, copy or not you need the right tools to do the job. hay its your car do as you may but what your trying to do wouldnt happen in my shop.

what are trying to do?

if i can give any advise which doesnt seem to mean much around here do not what ever you do copy or take someones word to what map to use either fuel or ignition i get asked all the time for copies of what i do, get it tuned with the right gear on it for checking det etc deside what fuel your going to use and go from there, no car is 100% the same even charging voltage can change a tune, little details can be costly so please ignore this im just thinking out loud,

my e34 wasnt the most ecomonical nor was my e36 so i put a afc in both, the m20b20 went from 40 to 65km per 10 bucks the m40 1.8 went from 45 to 70km per 10 bucks, but i also made it a manual thats also based on the current 5.7ltrs per $10 you can pick them up on trademe for around $100, been using them for a couple of years now you can do your won magnet setup which doesnt do alot, ive also done hydrogen which did work

my 5c worth i run 245/18/45 all round on my 34 10" rims 1" spacers ive just rebuilt the front end and with the back subframe bushes i used aftermarket and made half sapcers with a large dia spacer to surport them due too much side play. new track arms,ball joints blah blah blah. as for the brakes i did a small upgrade of a GT4 porche cup car, 360mm dia 32mm thick with brembos have yet to put on sub frame support cross ive made and the strut brace with 500lb springs and custom incerts. i dont use eccentric rings and it silky smooth even under hard hard braking. i also run 0 toe and 2 deg negitive chamber and lots of castor. conclusion: bit hard to say without seeing or driving it or take it to another shop and get them to look over it.

out of interest how much were the headers?

i did my system on my m40 318 and i would have to say it doesnt sound very good,performs slightly better to which is why im building up a m42 turbo for it. should sound a little better but aleast itll dam well go lol

if there a Bosch style then they should fit but the impedance is most important or the ecu injector drivers can blow,there's also peak hold and saturated injectors but that's another thing again

i agree totally the yanks use those things where ever they can,called being lazy

when i drove it was making boost cause thats why they wanted me to test to see if it was,belt was on and it was all go. i wonder if that was the one sent to alltech to be fixed? they has one off a bmw at one stage again not sure if it was the same car

every efi car has a rising rate regulator even a non turbo reg will work buy adding extra pressure as its still receives a boost/vacum single on top to raise fuel flow. the down side of aftermarket regs is they are often used for the wrong reasons and the wrong way. meaning you add a higher flow pump and the fuel pressures goes up so you add a aftermarket reg to turn the pressure down,this is OK to a certain point but its the return seat size in the reg thats a problem. each reg is made to match a certain fuel flow based on seat size,this is the hole the fuel flows thru to control pressure based on volume. regs come in sizes from .100 to .150 depends on ltrs/min, the biggest mistake that's made is when bigger injectors are fitted then fit another reg to get them to run at idle,bad move!!! ive seen pressure being dropped down as low a 20psi to allow it to run,now you have a very poor spray pattern which does nothing for performance. as mentioned above a re-flash of the ecu or aftermarket is the way to go,so you don't really need a aftermarket reg. im a big fan of getting away with a high a pressure as possible but never go over 85psi rail pressure or the it ll blow the needles of the seat and you have no control over them.

hay brent, not sure if this is the same car or not but afew years ago croydons wholesales had one the same, they asked me to drive it since i do there supra drag car. my old m20b20 e34 went better( the new engine will be slightly better),it was sort of ok up top but didnt realy make any power but i could be wrong if it was the same car. those kits arnt realy good for making power,i built the pro charger on adam wiggs drag car and intake temps were over 160 deg c !!!! and that was after the cooler,but i guess they have there place.

hope you don't mind i join in but your correct but for the most its very hard to set any car up to one setting on the road. our roads are crap and ever changing surfaces which makes it hard to suit both drivers wants and roads supplies. even my e36 with springs and bilsteins is great on some roads and hard on others,on the other hand my e34 toy is outstanding with what ive done till the other bits go in but you cant have it all then again its going to be a track car so who cares

i hope you dont have a problem with the fact they will be turbo scooters when you leave

you guys are most welcome to come out,please wear knee pads ive got boxes of work everywhere dont want you hurting your selves trippin over them,lolol

i would totally agree your best start is going manual the one thing i really really really hate with BMW is the auto when i put the 265 dog leg in my 5 series it was a different car to drive so much more fun and it did what you wanted when you wanted to. do the conversion first you wont look back the 4hp22 in the 5 series and my little 318 e36 is nothing but i pain I'm about to drop a m44 turbo into the e36 with a manual and I'm soooooooooooooooooo looking forward to it. and i would have to say the m40 is the most hungry thing Ive ever feed,plus no hp

cheers guys for the kind words but please note i don't come onto forums to drum up work cause i have more than i know what to do with i like to think others can benefit from what at times even confuses me lol i also tend to talk over people but not meaning to as i can speak before i think. i think BMW's are a great cars and have become very cheap to buy and mod. i enjoy doing stuff that's different and challenging thus when I'm told you cant do it then I'm in !!!! sorry if Ive come across arrogant i guess working 12-14 hr days tends to catch up on you

thank you for that but i guess in all fairness to him everyone has a different way of doing things. considering a stock rebuild using oem parts would set you back 3-4k then aftermarket upgrade parts are cheaper thus you can build a good engine well and on a budget. a well setup turbo sized to suit any car can make numbers a be responsive and make power on lower boost if you look into things with a open mind high compression can be over come but the ecu and tune is most important but you still make good power,the mechanical strength of parts are your limits even with heads that dont flow well you can still find power if you reverse engineer as in flow bench the head first and work out its limits you ll better result. i also base the cams used on flow bench numbers not alot of point using a cam with .400" lift when the head runs out of flow at .350", thats called over camed. im not a big fan of thick head gaskets to lower compression,reshaping the head chamber and piston bowel gives a better flame area and more thermal bang thus greater exhaust energy for better turbo response. big cams do work well on turbos with more overlap for the same reason. and on that note i very much enjoy helping people to the best of my knowledge to which is why ive written for the nzpc mag FREE for the past 11 years, i believe that way im doing it for the right reason. im far from being right about everything and i don't confess to know it all. i guess based on things ive posted on here before and the response it gets my back up as i dont get alot of spare time even for my own projects or family.

go read my column in the nzpc mag,and do a back track over the last 11 yrs I've written for them and the list of cars ive done. i believe there's a few world records in there some where,but don't take my word for it

well i disagree on the diesel side of things as for the rest that you cant get double the power without spending big dollars? ill call back my customers that have ill let you now what a m30 can do stock,i have a 635 and a 535 to do, i would tell about my m50b25 but I'm sure most wont believe me anyway still guys like mike delmont got a reasonable result from my setup, but it does stand true in here about being ignored,whether its a BMW or not they all make power the same way at the end of the day its not rocket science and like most out there the BMW is a great car but still just that,a car i wouold say who i am but i dought it would mean much i here

the amount of boost you run means nothing,its how much cfm it can withstand every turbo has a flow rate based against the hp you want to make ive done diesels making 500hp and rev to 3k on low psi,get the idea? the supercharger takes 33% of crank power to turn it turbos take between 5-7% depending on the threshold point and the unit its self

im converting my m50 turbo to use the cap on the end of the cam shaft as per the m5 motor, done this before and even on a single coil i havent been able to put the spark out

that's all well and great MRD1 but no matter whats on offer the guys wallet will decide what he does even with my own business and what i write for mags you can only but advise if we all had deep pockets then AP or PERFOMANCE FRICTION would be on the list,but that's not the case. and for the record many good rotors are cast in India,Ive made many rotors from billet fixed and floating that out last most of the shelf units. there's a guy in the Ill of white that does billet rotors for bikes and lemans based cars that cant keep up with demand and there not that's costly to do.