Neal

Been working on a "ski pass" subwoofer enclosure. Will end up with a 36mm front baffle.

Hatiatia worth a look. 10 Mins from the city and good chance of a garage. I'm one of those Porirua types that ThrityAndy warned you about

Should be able to turn on personal hotspot on the ipad so it will act as an access point. No need for a router. Have a look at an app called icam. it will take video from streaming wifi web cams. looks like you can set up so that it will bring any web cam up if it detects movement. Last part would be to get a waterproof ip web cam , many are 5 volt so your standard $20 car usb 5volt 2 amp charger . Connect it to 12 volt via a relay off you reverse lights. In theory would bring up the camera video each time it's power on http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/82645404...ome_hidden.html or http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/69076358...n_Baby_Pet.html

Have you thought about a wifi reversing camera ? Could open up Ipad mini options

Lithuim grease is your friend if its slow loading. You'll need to take the outer stacker case off. The ribon cables inside need to come out to make it easier via tabs on the edge ifthe connector.Grease all metal edges that move against each other. Also check the nylon wheel that does the up down motion. This can be adjusted by means of small Philips screwdriver. If the wheel is getting worn it jams a bit. Push it further into the cog. Roughly takes an hour to do. Check out any alpine stacker disassembly pics / videos via google if you need help Wheel adjustment and how it comes apart https://blogs.oracle.com/miko/entry/cd_changer_repair

This Kit + ideas from here (K100RS same motor)

How are people reading the last paragraph in the left hand side above. I read this as bridge mode and 2 ohm capable. Otherwise , could be run in stereo mode with each voice coil on it's own channel.

Unit has good features , the high pass filters and time alignment settings will be useful . DVC sub will be fine. For $300 two pairs of Bostons is up there eh. I doubt they will dissapoint when paying entry split level price I have a boston spg555 sub going into my build Btw , check out this this link for some ideas. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/top...lium-bmw-323ci/

Looks like the amp in bridged / tri mode makes its most power of 300 what's. with a 4 ohm per coil connected in parallel the amp will see a 2 ohm load and produce 250 watts. With the amp being chosen it look like total load of 4 ohms from the speaker will produce the highest output. So basically the dual 2 ohm version of the sub will produce the highest output from the amp in bridge mode. Either way your car stereo is shaping up nicely. If you stay with the 4 ohm DVc version then you drop the max sound output slightly Btw what head unit did you get ?

Using quick office pro as our standard app for viewing and basic editing of office docs on our iPads. It's a reasonably cheap app as well. Ipad is an easy interface to first time tablet users. We've used them on a fairly wide group of users with differing IT literacy skills. Have played and have access to Windows 8 tablets , have a blackberry play book as well My default tablet has become the ipad with a windows 7 laptop as backup for serious document creation and Visio drawings.

Fine tuning the fronts would mean something like putting the tweeters on the a pillars or top of the dash in the corners. If the crossovers are adjustable then back off the tweeters 3db if putting on dash. If you run the fronts like this you will have a better sound stage and less of an issue with unequal distances compared to tweeters in doors. For the rears I'd back off the sound output so that they running about a quarter volume of the fronts or less. Sub wise pick for your music tastes. E.g 10 inch good for rock, punchy and fast, 12 inch , goes lower but timing of bass can be delayed , 15 inch higher output goes lower and harder , timing isn't great unless its a highend sub. Not all subs in the same size are equal either and it could pay to check with Rogan in terms of best bang for the buck.

Class d is easier on the electrics for the same power as a class ab amp. Looks like a reasonable amp for price. Can your budget for speakers stretch to a couple of sets of these Visit My Website Boston is getting out of car audio and has being selling off stock. These retailed for around 500 nz a pair. Sound is very good as is build quality. In terms of you head unit I'd run the RCA rear output to the amp and run both the fronts and sub off the pioneer. Use a y cable on the inputs and run the amp in 3 channel mode. Sub wise look for something that's a min of 300 rms in a box size that suits your bmw. If you have a ski pass armrest think about a sub that sits at the right height to fire through the arm rest hole. Rear speaker just connect to front speaker out. So on your Sony head unit the front and sub are off the rear RCA output. So the fader function will be in reverse ( set and forget )

Finances and time (newish baby) allowing, summer this year

Some details on the Mini build. Body 1963 Mk1 Mini Seven , Rumoured to be an old ShellSport Series car from 1970's/80s Manz roll cage circa 2000 , usual Mini race car mods and brackets. Body has been seem welded Cooper s Front disc brakes , Minifin alloy rear drum brakes Spax adjustable shocks , Front and rear adjustable camber / caster , Adjustable ride height on each corner Alloy fuel cell , Electric fuel pump , carb rising rate fuel regulator No seats yet , but racetech looks like a good way to go and they are local. Will have all Cooper S chrome trim and hoping to get certed for road under motorsport rego. Engine Austin 1300gt with 060 over bore. 7.9 cr forged pistons , ported and polished head , forged rockers , race valves , lightened / shot peened rods , turbo friendly camshaft (mild street cam BP255) Crank has been lightened and treated. small IHI turbo , intercooled , K&N Apollo intake , Su hif44 turbo carb. Gearbox is close ratio straight cut 4 speed, Quaife ABT LSB , Automatic / Land Rover CV's Pics are engine , trial fit and shell painted

The e28 was in fine form on the weekend ! Thanks for the lift after the dinner.

I'd be worried about my Mini's and the carpet not to mention all the other stuff I've filled mine with. Willing to give it a try though .......

Photo 3 , looks like you got owned by a Pulsar When you get back to nz join us at the next cliffhanger event. R6's are ideal . You get to take corners at speeds not to far your straight line speed. Here's a legal version of your speedo shot , timed at 257 Kmh or 270 Kmh on a R6 speedo Cliffhanger Or Ps, bring the Aussie chicks as we could do pit babes at the next event

Helpful link http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=245914 Body of posting has wiring colours / use. If you dropping after market speakers in the factory location use the mid bass wiring as it's a thicker gauge. Note the rear screen aerial is active and will need power to operate. It also has a diversity system which an after market head unit won't use ( helps with finge area reception) Also check out the metra brand which has some drop in harnesses depending on factory head unit. If you have a rear factory amp then it will become more complex as Bmw have sole rights to the tyco connector which covers the amp power , balanced inputs and speaker outputs. E.g no aftermarket looms with the tyco connector One thing to consider is if you have the factory 10 speaker amp / speaker setup it's probably better to run RCA from the Sony , convert to balanced audio via suitable box link or after market bass processor and feed it into the factory amp as it will have more power over all than the 12 watts rms per channel that the Sony has.

Brian was kind enough to arrange some of my late fathers Motorsport photography to be used at the bmw festival last year ( bmws @ Nissan mobil 500 in the 1980s). This gesture meant a lot to me and my mother. Never met the man , but have great respect for him doing so. Thoughts are with his family.

Get the proper stuff from Repco. They have a super strong quick setting rear view mirror glue system. Supercheap also have a glue. Ring first as not all stores have it.

In terms of e46 smgs you can set the shift speed in both auto and manual mode. Want smoother auto shits , set it in mode 2 auto mode, Want crisp manual changes set in manual mode 4 which is similar to a reasonably quick manual gearbox change. Most people who first try the smg drive them a manual and lift off the gas as you would on a manual car. The gives a jerky gear change and the impression that the gearbox is too harsh. Give the system a month of so to get used to and you won't regret it. Also plenty of people read stuff but haven't driven them but yet offer the option they are crap. Not sure what that is about , some kind of Internet armchair critic thing. Basically you either don't lift the gas or if you do only slightly do it in manual mode. In mode 4 plus you get a nice fast change similar to a manual. In mode 6 mash the gas pedal and you'll get a gear change in 1/10 th of a second which does feel a bit brutal but will bring a smile. Only a few top racing drivers can change gears faster in a manual. The smg system will also blip the throttle on down changes so no need to heel and toe if you drive like that.

Would a 3rd gear run give a reliable reading ? My e46 m3 which is standard as far as I know read 230 kw at the hubs on a dynapack hub dyno . Seems 30 - 40 kw too high based on other and too close to the v8 m3 Couldn't run in higher gears due to the smg wanting to change down at the run start.

Have a look at Fusion marine systems (a few other bands do similar units) Here Another option is to take the face of a dettachable face head unit, Solder wire on the the connectors and put the cd / tuner unit in the boot.

Not sure if the uk add came on tv here ..... shaking that ass...... still comes to mind every time I see one

I'd do the 15,000km mcoupe . A lot of car and not many km's for the price