Neal

Looks better in the flesh.

If you have the infra-red remote keys check try these instructions and see if it solves some of the issues http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1212240

I'd leave it on the grounds of the calipers being messed with. If they'd been replaced with something after market and bigger then fine, but ground / painted / chromed I'd want to know who did it and if they knew what they where doing.

Have a read through CSet's thread before deciding. Although it's for a E46 M3 I learnt more from this thread on coilovers than looking through overseas forums. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....l=pss9&st=0

I'd say that those SLR versions with the rose joints will require a certifier to have a good look at them. The other issue is that they are going to wear quickly with the dirt and dust they'll be subjected to on the road. I've avoided using adjustable rose jointed arms for these two reasons.

My bad , checked this post on an iphone so the pic made it look like it has two nuts. Looks like I should be thinking about glasses. The type that I was talking about are the ones on my mini in the picture below. These won't get a warrant if it was registered as a road car.

I'd be giving the air box a good vacuum after that and binning all filters

My understanding is the only way that screw together fittings will pass is on car that is registered for Motorsport use such as a targa car / club car . They will not pass under standard road car registration .

Can be repaired , get it out of the car now as the liquid is acid , it will leak out soon as it's starting to break down. Will eat any plastics ! I sent mine to http://sybesmas.com/site/services/ . For around $175 usd they will replace the mirror glass with a version that doesn't break down. They have a track and trace service. Being an rare oval mirror you will need to send it over , they will repair and send it back. I think the whole process took 10 days. Consider taking the glass out before sending. Mine leaked on the way over and the acid took part of the rubberised finish off the mirror. Other option it to contact http://www.radar-mirror.com/ and go the full hog and get one of there stealth installs for 'safety devices" They should also be able to replace / repair the active mirror glass

Same here, nice person to meet. Always polite and respectful out side of the show. Has my respect for this

Harvey Norman really does it for me. High rotation prime time adds. Last place on the list to buy stuff from.

The e46 came with a jap phone eject box. I got a new iphone 5 recently and with some plastic trimming on the eject boxi looks like it will fit quite nicely. Question is what filler would be best to use on plastic to tidy it up ?

Todays unrelated fact. Amon did a 7.57 in 1968in an F1 car . A factory spec M3 CSL did 7.53. Any guess on the hand build an Amon Carozza ?

There was a Corona Amon as well around that time. Same deal , different springs and shocks to suit NZ conditions.

In case you've not seen this video.

I'd also check the amps power supply stage for any signs of damage. Have a close look at the caps to make sure they haven't failed with the short. Otherwise you could have a second fire when you wire it back in. As to the battery I'd be inclined to replace it regardless.

Stock E46 M3 , 307hp at the hubs with 2nd gear ratio corrected to 9.2

If you have a spare hour or so they are easy enough to sort. Typically it will either be that the loading cog needs adjustment or just needs a good lube with lithium grease on the metal services that move together. The other issue is the laser which can fail over time which can be brought on ebay, but most of the time it's just either of the two items above. The link below will show you who to get it apart and check the loading cog adjustment. While it's apart put lithium grease on the loading surfaces. https://blogs.oracle.com/miko/entry/cd_changer_repair

Handy skills to have and welcome aboard. Plenty of BM engine swap ideas on here if you want to tinker more rather than build a second ricer . Check out Rays M car specials , M3's with M5 engine etc.

Had similar perception issues riding motorcycles over the years. I just smile. Some people think your about to rob them , others want you to pay up front because they've judge a motorcycle rider to have no money for no reason. Then you get the other end where the accommodation industry will go out of their way to treat you well , offer lockups for the night , offer to help carry gear etc. I think good customer service is an 'art" really but it is a two way street. A friendly smile both ways can be a good icebreaker. Just a case of finding somewhere that you like that treats you such as Ray or Brent

On the E30 there is two holes in the rear panel that go between the boot and rear cabin that are either side of the where the arm rest is. I'd be inclined to put some bolts through those holes to a couple of brackets and screw the brackets into the rear of the sub. I ran a IB ski pass sub on my E30 using bolts to anchor. Made for a very solid mounting. The amp can be mounted on the sub box. As to life of amp it shouldn't be a problem unless its getting severe vibration from enclosure which in turn mechanically shakes the c**p out of the amp. Pick of rear panel here

Just double checking on the size. Was a 17 inch your after Type 1 16x8 were the common size. Brought one as a spare that was in need of a major refurb for my old e36. Still sitting in the garage somewhere.

Wasn't one of these e34 540i ACS's that holds the 24 hr NZ production car endurance record set in 96 ? Nice example , Type ones suit it.

Working on building amp rack next to Sat Nav rack. Trial fit stage. Looks like I can use existing frame and holes by adding brackets.

Box finished, Front baffle surround removable so subwoofer can be removed for track days etc.