wrs

Thanks, already have a PN532 kit left over from some old projects and had discounted using because it's way too big and too power hungry. The fobs aren't very pretty either. Was hoping to find something good looking in-line with BMW styling. Arduino stuff can be a bit flaky too and libraries often need to be modified to work properly. I only briefly flirted with the PN532 kit - got it working ok but didn't test it in anger for stability or functionality. My preference is also for a proximity type key similar to what's used in fairly new cars (the type you keep in your pocket). However, happy to collaborate or do all the work and you can piggy-back off what I do. In my case I need something fairly urgently so I can replace the screwdriver with a proper solution. Do you have any specific needs? After starting to design the logic for sequencing the start/stop button functionality I've revised the original as I've found a minor improvement: Security 1. Use a Nearfield RFID device plugged into a hole/slot on the dashboard. 2. Use a proximity RF security device like many modern card so you can keep your key in your pocket (likely my preferred). 3. Keypad with pin code. Either of these enables the electronics that start the car. Then there's two modes the system could operate in; Auto ACC and non Auto ACC - a switch on the dash will select between the modes. Non Auto ACC Mode: 1. The electronics get enabled by the security device. 2. Press the Start/Stop Button once - ACC position activated. 3. Press the Start/Stop Button a second time - the RUN position is activated, hold for 2 seconds more to start, skip step 4. 4. Hold the Start/Stop Button for 2s, engine cranks, internal engine running signal activated. 5. Hold the Start/Stop button for 2s, switch off RUN and ACC if the internal engine running signal is active. Now only 2 presses to start. Auto ACC Mode: 1. The electronics get enabled by the security device and the ACC position is immediately activated. 2. Press the Start/Stop Button once - the RUN position is activated, hold for 2 seconds more to start, skip step 3. 3. Hold the Start/Stop Button for 2s, engine cranks, internal engine running signal activated. 4. Hold the Start/Stop button for 2s, switch off RUN and ACC if the internal engine running signal is active. Now only one press to start.

Thanks but already have this sorted. Just need a security coded nearfield/proximity unit with a digital output.

A little more investigation has found the problem - the barrel is perfectly fine and still works. I've extracted the barrel and found the interfacing system consisting of a muck-metal cast rod/cam/flange that connects between the ignition switch block and key barrel has sheared in half at the narrowest point. Replacing this might be possible by getting bits from the wreckers but I suspect it's a weak point that could fail again any time and old donor parts will probably have a limited life. Have decided not to bother trying to fix this and will go down the engine start/stop button route. Now to find a security device. I already have remote lock/unlocking as part of the alarm system so just need a discrete security fob type device to replace the key to enable starting. By drilling out the spring that pushes up the steering lock mechanism the steering wheel is free. However, I've noticed the small sheet metal activator thingy that locks the steering is very free and slides up super easy when pushed with a long screwdriver. I'm a little uncomfortable relying on gravity to keep this activator inactive and will glue it down so it can never lock the steering. It would be disastrous to have this activate mid corner on a big bump - probably unlikely but better to be safe than potentially dead. Now, to find a suitable donor vehicle for a security enable system and figure out how to transfer the electronics... Fabricating a PCB with the logic sequencing for ACC, RUN and START is the easy part.

My E36 ignition barrel just died (turns but nothing happens). It initially went to ACC, then RUN, but I felt it crack as I turned it to START and nothing happened. After turning it back off the key then did nothing, just spins in the barrel and the steering lock was on. Had to drill out the steering lock spring and take the ignition switch block off the back of where the barrel sits so I can start it with a screwdriver. I'm now wondering what the best path forward is to fix/replace. Do I get a new coded barrel from BMW (I assume this is possible) or modify things to go keyless/wireless with a start button... I quite like the key-less method but want to preserve some sort of security which essentially requires an electronic key, either nearfield or proximity. Not sure if this has been done/discussed before but I couldn't find the right search words to show anything so here goes: For the key-less option I'm thinking of the following. Security 1. Use a Nearfield RFID device plugged into a hole/slot on the dashboard. 2. Use a proximity RF security device like many modern card so you can keep your key in your pocket (likely my preferred). 3. Keypad with pin code. Either of these enables the electronics that start the car. Then there's two modes the system could operate in; Auto ACC and non Auto ACC - a switch on the dash will select between the modes. Non Auto ACC Mode: 1. The electronics get enabled by the security device. 2. Press the Start/Stop Button once - ACC position activated. 3. Press the Start/Stop Button a second time - the RUN position is activated 4. Hold the Start/Stop Button for 2s, engine cranks, internal engine running signal activated. 5. Hold the Start/Stop button for 2s, switch off RUN and ACC if the internal engine running signal is active. Auto ACC Mode: 1. The electronics get enabled by the security device and the ACC position is immediately activated. 2. Press the Start/Stop Button once - the RUN position is activated 3. Hold the Start/Stop Button for 2s, engine cranks, internal engine running signal activated. 4. Hold the Start/Stop button for 2s, switch off RUN and ACC if the internal engine running signal is active. The issue I'm having is trying to find a Nearfield or Proximity system with a simple relay type contact output that will create the enable signal to allow the engine to be started. Has anyone come across either type of system that could be applied to a car? Maybe a suggestion of donor cars to get a security system from? Have hear a Toyota Ractis might have a suitable system. Is there any interest in this type of system from anybody - happy to make this system into a kitset that can be retrofitted to any car. Also, does anyone know ballpark pricing to replace the key/barrel coded to my original? Mine failed after 17:00 on Friday so I could call BMW to get a price...

Not much experience but the limited exposure I've had put them at the best compromise. You get significantly enhanced fuel economy without needing coal... Likely the best option for the next 5 years at least.

I'm currently trying to buy a rural property 51km out of town. If I'm successful I'll be going off-grid as no power is available nearby. I already have a 128kWh battery system and will purchase 26.4kW of solar panels for worst-case winter months. For about 50% of the year I'd have excess power to charge an EV to get to work. I work at ABB and they offer free electric car charging (from coal) so I'd get one way free but likely have to top-up from solar at home for the total round trip (eg; Leaf II). If I went EV I'd need to increase the solar array size for winter months - without calculating the requirement I'd guess at about 50% increase to 39.6kW (about another $8.4k + inverters $2k)... Bimmer would be parked up in the garage for weekend special trips only...

😊 Likewise, have 6.2kW solar panels but wonder if they're better or worse than if they weren't there. So hard to tell what's real and perceived...

Went for a bit of back-road driving on the way home and ticked over 420,000 km's...

Now that's truly incredible dedication - I'd hate to be welding that many small sections. What an effort!!!

Stick with fossil fuels. All electric vehicles in NZ are currently running on coal. Until new renewable generation is built all shortfall in power in NZ is provided by coal. Even if all current electric vehicles are removed from NZ roads we still need coal to fill the gap. EV's worldwide are currently just marketing hype. Until true renewables are available to power EV's they nearly all run on fossil fuel as that's where the power is ultimately generated from. The cost to run them may be better but what's the overall environmental cost? I like EV's and will eventually change to one but until the truth about where the power comes from is common knowledge and power is made from renewable resources (not coal) to power them we're better off sticking with petrol/diesel. I think it's only a number of years until electric is viable and better for the environment but until more renewable energy comes online in NZ coal is the source of power for EV's.

Yeah, thanks, that could work. The S50 injectors should flow about 7% more which likely won't be quite enough but if I also increase the fuel pressure a small amount by replacing the stock regulator with an adjustable one it should be possible to set the fuel pressure required during the tune to make sure the injectors are near 100% at max torque/power. This assumes the stock fuel pump can deliver the flow at higher pressure - next thing to check... For that matter the existing pink tops I had reconditioned for the current engine would also work if the fuel pressure was increased 15-20%. Pretty sure the S50 runs 3 bar fuel pressure - the US S50 is supposed to run 3.5 bar (not sure why as it makes crap power that doesn't need the increase in pressure). This suggests increased fuel pressure won't be a problem. Also, the S50B32 Euro is supposed to run 5 bar so again, the injectors must be rated ok for a small increase in operating pressure. One of the local guys here is making 316HP from a M52B28. I suspect somewhere between 320-340 is possible from a M50B31 with similar mods. We're both using the same tuner (and Link ECU) and learning from each other as we leap-frog each other on subsequent mods/tunes. The guy with the 328 is also considering making a M50B30/31 too to see what is possible. Will check MSEL but hope I can work with the standard injectors I already have.

I've collected a few items with the intention of building a second engine and will fix the current engine to keep as a spare. M50B25tu engine (blown head gasket) M54B30 (crank & rods donor) S50 ITB's & Plenum S50 to M50 Adapter https://www.driftshop.com/itb-adapter-spacer-bmw-m50-m52.html I'm looking to bore the M50 block to 86mm, use aftermarket 86mm pistons (increase to 3.15L) and use a thinner than standard head gasket (Cometic) to raise CR to around 11.3:1. On Doug's recommendation I'll get better than S50US cams (probably CAT cams with more lift) and do a spring/retainer change. Will also do some minor porting and match porting to the ITB adapter and S50 Euro headers. I'm currently running pink top injectors but they are running at 100% duty from peak torque at 5.5k rpm up. If I'm intending to get more power I'm going to need bigger injectors. The pink top are supposed to be 21.5lb/225cc. I suspect 20-30% bigger will allow the headroom without compromising idle and low throttle stability too much. There's a set of S50 injectors that came with the ITB's (Bosch 0-280-150-701) but I think these are only marginally bigger than the pink tops at around 23lb/240cc and likely won't be big enough and I have no idea what condition they're in. Even 24lb/252cc blue tops could be too low flow. Can anyone suggest a good injector and supplier for replacements? Should I stick with EV1 or look at EV6 or EV14 type with EV1 connectors? I suspect I'm going to need 270cc to 300cc to allow some headroom so I'm not hitting 100% duty at full power.

I have the S50 ITB's, need everything in the photo's + the throttle bracket. Does anyone have a spare they can part with?

I wants it... Loss of traction at 100k's, cool!!

Thanks, all good points and likely increase reliability somewhat. I have the oil pump mods already done.

Current head, no work done that I know of, not even match-ported... The original M50B30 stroker came from Sam at HellBM - was built as a drift car engine but there was really no way it would have enough power as it was. I suspect it was just put together without any special work done to it. I originally went with the nv head because of the double valve springs and an old-school Ford background where double valve springs when using high lift were the only option + it's what was on the engine when I purchased it from Sam. If there's a better option I'll certainly entertain looking at it. To date I've only been considering just over stock RPM for M50 based engines. The nv head means a 7k limit. On my current engine I've set the Link to limit at 6750RPM and I almost never hit it. With peak torque at 5500RPM there's little benefit going over 6.5k anyway. If there's options to reliably increase peak RPM a little and move peak torque up accordingly then why not. I've always liked big RPM but now prefer reliability over RPM. Maybe new cams to move peak torque up 500RPM + some head work to get the flow required + maybe ITB's. Maybe better to buy a S50/S52 and rebuild that... What head would you recommend - M52B28?

I made mine using a scaf-plank and some 200x50 H1.2. They're 1.6m long, 250mm wide and 260mm high. Even at that length they still just rub on the air splitter.

Thanks for the info. It would be a shame to throw out the cams as I purchased them new from Turners (Schrick S50 Intake: 252 degree, 10.2mm lift Exhaust: 244 degree, 9.5mm lift ). That said if there are much better options then why not. I went with the Shrick's because it meant no messing round with lifters and having to check spring binding, valve clearances etc and the duration and lift were better than standard M50 cams. It also sounds like I don't need to do anything special in the way of pistons and can put those dollars towards something else (cams). If I do go with better cams I could likely on-sell the S50US cams to help offset the cost of replacements. There's another local guy with a real nice 328 M52 engine making around 316Hp, maybe I can talk to him about which cams he's using - it's a race car though and might not be that driveable round town... As you say though, I don't need much more to crack 300Hp but why stop there, 320+ should be possible quite easily.

I'm looking for a M50B25nv engine but won't need the cams. If I find one (or if you do) you can have the cams after I get the engine.

After nearly 5 years and 85k+ my engine has developed a problem. Over the last few weeks I've been getting yellow gunk on the oil filler cap and the base of the CCV drain where the dipstick sits (yellow gunk on the dipstick too). I've also been losing about 150ml a week from the cooling reservoir. I drained the oil and waited for all drips to stop then pressurised the cooling system to 1 bar (usually runs at about 0.7 bar). After 10 minutes or so I started to get a drip every couple of minutes. It was just oil. After about an hour and having to add a bit more pressure to the cooling system from time to time as the pressure very slowly dropped, the oil drops started to contain water. Probably the most likely problem is a leak in the head gasket between the cooling system and a low pressure oil return drain. So, I've decided to either rebuild the engine or build another one so I have a spare. Either way I'd like to crack >300HP. Since I'm already at 298 it shouldn't be too difficult. During the build a M54B30 rotating assembly was installed directly into a M50B25nv engine with US S50 cams and full M3 Evo exhaust (no cats) including the M3 Evo headers. This has likely resulted in relatively low compression, probably under 10:1 and more likely closer to 9:1. If I rebuild or build a new engine I'm considering after market pistons to 1: Raise Compression and 2: Increase capacity by boring from 84.0mm to 86.0mm to go from about 3L to 3.13L. I may also have to get some head-work done to improve flow a little. The compression increase alone should mean >300HP. Is there anyone in NZ who can calculate the increase in piston height required to achieve 11:1 to 11.4:1 taking into account the increase in bore diameter? Is there anyone in NZ who can check the bore thickness prior to boring to ensure there no asymmetry or irregularity in the casting? VAC Motorsport have a range of oversize pistons with different deck heights for various compression ratios but they don't list the M50B25nv head in the options and it has a different volume to other heads so the stated CR likely won't be correct. They also don't list combo's for the M54B30 rotating assembly in my block + head combo. Someone has suggested Mahle as an option but it will depend if they're available in 86mm and if they can be machined to suit. Has anyone used ceramic coatings on pistons and combustion chambers before (lifetime expectation)? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions.

Meh, PS4S 235/40/17 isn't available. 235/45/17 is available but is too big in diameter with 3% increase (625mm to 645mm). Maybe the diameter increase is ok. Since only the rears need changing I'm putting RE003's back on for now. The fronts are only half worn so next time the rears need changing the fronts should need doing at the same time. Will re-investigate PS4S when next due.

Cool, thanks. Sounds like 215/235 combo is the answer.

I've been using RE003's (Front: 225/45/17, Rear: 245/40/17) for a few years but was considering switching to PS4S as I need to get new tyres. Today I looked at a PS4S 225/45/17 and discovered it's a fair bit wider than the RE003 225/45/17. The sidewalls on the PS4S are about 5mm more bulged on each side than the RE003 so it looks a lot more like a 235... I'm concerned they won't fit under my wheel arches as I only have about a finger width at the front and can't get a finger between the rear tyre and wheel arch. I have no rubbing now and want to keep it that way. Is anyone else using the PS4S on a E36 with DS2 Sunflower rims on a staggered M3 setup 225/45/17 on the front and 245/40/17 on the back. I don't want to order tyres in if they won't fit or if they're going to rub on anything. I have the Eibach springs from a B12 kit and Koni adjustables in place of the B12 kit Bilstiens, M3 front strut top-hats and M3 front swaybar mounts so the car has M3 ride height and stance and has a M3 wheel alignment. The front tyres are about level with the front wheel arch and about 20mm up inside the rear.

Cheers, thanks

200ml isn't much but it is some and it depends on how many km's done between... My old engine was replaced at 324km's and it still wasn't using any oil between changes at about 10,000km between. Any oil usage could be a sign of trouble. At nearly 250km you'd be looking at a rebuild within 50km anyway. My 325i @324km was way down on power compared to when I first got it at 97km... Seems pricey for the km.