turbolizard

I have similar symptoms with the three yellow lights coming on in the dash after the car is started. This was happening occasionally after the car was warm but now seems to happen almost immediately almost all the time. Nothing other than the lights coming on is noticeable as a problem. If it is the module and it is replaced with a working one then I guess it needs to be coded to the car. Is this much work? Who can do it? Do I need to get the parameters out of the old one first?

I am also interested if it does not work out for M3AN to get hold of the plug he needs.

If you want to do it in Excel, you will want the power in Watts and rotational speed in radians /second. To get power in Watts => multiply kW by 1000. To get engine speed in rad/s => divide RPM by 60 and multiply by 2*pi. Formula for pi in Excel is PI(). For torque in Nm using kW and RPM the formula is Torque=Power/RPM*30000/PI() If you have 150kW at 6000rpm then the torque is 239Nm.

You can calculate the torque from your power curve, as you know the RPM. The power is just torque multiplied by speed (engine speed), so to calculate torque you need to take the power number and divide by engine speed. You need to have everything in SI units to make it work without conversion factors.

I have done a lot of ski racing so I know the kind of boats you refer to. Your boat will be slower in fresh water and will get slower the higher you go up the river - noticeable by the time you get to Taupo. The fresh water also feels much "harder" than sea water, and Taupo is "harder" again compared to further down. The boat will smack harder in chop and off wakes. The density difference is an obvious factor that changes the feel and makes the boat slower in fresh water. I don't know the physics that govern that experience of "hard water" in Taupo but if you spend some time in fresh water you will notice it. All the hydro lakes are fun and Karapiro is probably a pretty good bet for you, but it gets busy on a good weekend. Go early to go fast, but watch out for rowers. The lake is well protected from the wind and you can see a long way ahead, with limited places to enter and exit (not many bays), so it is a good spot for a fast run. Just watch the wake board boat wakes later in the day. Ohakuri is also good, but gets rougher. You can swim in hot geothermal water entering the lake at the south end of the main body of the lake. The great joy of fresh water boating is you only have to towel your boat off after using it.

My e39 M5 has 90,000km uses some oil - maybe 200ml per 1000km or something like that. I check it pretty often. My 540 uses nothing, even after 293,000km. I think the M5 is the only BMW I have owned that actually needs topping up between oil changes, but I still check the oil in any car and don't let it get down to the light.

Always run BP Ultimate 98 in my M5 although I did buy 95 once in Queenstown when I couldn't get 98. No issues with that but didn't hammer it on 95. I wouldn't worry about octane booster. My M5 gear change is also quite stiff, specially cold, but no problem selecting any gear. I also have a six speed e34 540 and I like the 540 gear change better (although e39 M5 overall is a better total package).

I have bought it from BMW before - was not too expensive.

Hey, not so quik fella - I owned that car in the 90's. I always thought it was just a nice 320i, but now I realize it had a latent M'ish feel about it. You might have to share some of that extra profit with previous owners if you let the cat out of the bag by putting a badge on it.

Try this - it is a printable list - I shouldn't have been so lazy amd should have looked up the link before. It has been updated since I used it and Queenstown and Wanaka have been taken off. http://www.bp.com/liveassets/bp_internet/b...s8April2011.pdf South Island part of the list... BP Connect Dallington Gloucester St Christchurch Avonside BP Papanui Papanui Rd Christchurch Papanui BP 2go Redcliffs Main Rd Christchurch Redcliffs BP Connect Rolleston Cnr Main South Rd & Pennyson St Christchurch Rolleston BP 2go Sockburn Main South Rd Christchurch Sockburn BP 2go Halswell Halswell Rd Christchurch BP Connect Fendalton Memorial Ave Christchurch BP Connect Hoon Hay Hoon Hay & Sparks Rds Christchurch BP Connect QE II Cnr Travis Rd & Bower Ave Christchurch BP Connect Bush Inn Riccarton Rd Christchurch BP Connect Edgeware Edgeware Rd & Cranford St Christchurch BP Connect Bays Junction Andersons Bay Rd Dunedin BP Connect Southern Cumberland St Dunedin BP 2go Everedi Princes St Dunedin BP 2go Dunedin North Cumberland St Dunedin BP 2go Greymouth Tainui St Greymouth BP 2go Kaikoura Beach Rd Kaikoura BP 2go Autoworld Wansbeck St Oamaru BP Connect Timaru Evants Street Timaru

BP have a list of locations where 98 is available on their website, but it is not totally reliable. When I toured the South Island I had that list with me and it said BP Frankton had 98, but they didn't. I could not find 98 in Queenstown.

I'm pretty tempted to buy that car (again). Seeing it brings back a lot of good memories. I owned it when it had about 200,000 less km on it. Sold it to buy a ski boat back in late 90's.

He did a great job - well done Daniel! Eddie, I am the guy with the e30 who came over at the end of the day and spoke with you for a while after racing - never realized that I was looking at what I had read about on here. edit: remove quoted pic

I have used them quite a few times. Always really good, but as others have said the shipping now seems very expensive. It used to be quite cheap to ship from ECS.

Don't count on it! You will need to rest 540i road brakes quite a few times over an hour. After a couple of laps a road car will need a bit of a breather, or you could get things hotter than you want and really start to chew through them (brake pads, rotors and tyres, or even transmissions and engines). Have fun, but keep your head...

In the "Meet Alice" thread there is some discussion about fuel tanks and senders. I am keen to know more... I have a 318 facelift and the fuel reading is steady but after track driving it can be all over the place. Is this because of fuel transfer from one side to the other getting messed up by hard cornering? How do you know how much fuel is really in the tank?

Are you looking to replace the whole thing? If so then BMW can supply it - I bought a new one from ECS Tuning. Cant remember the price but it was not all that expensive. If you just want a section of the molding to splice in a patch in place of the worn section then I can give you some of the one I took out.

Had the exact same thing on my e34 540. Used to happen once a year on the hottest day but got worse and worse and I was having to push start once a month when hot (restarting at gas station or in town). It was the starter solenoid but I just changed the whole starter over for $60. Don't know why I put up with it for so long. Haven't had a problem since.

I think the post refers to the turn signal indicator lamp in the dash - the one that blinks in synch with the turn signals which are working outside the car. If so it is most likely just a bulb and you could possibly just swap one in from an unused location on the back of the cluster (you might have unused warning lights for options you car does not have). I found some of the right bulbs for my e34 instrument cluster at the local Ford Dealer.

I have always liked the shadowline trim I had on my e34 - it was semi gloss, or whatever you call it (not very shiny). That is how I thought all shadowline always was. Then I got e39 with gloss shadowline. If I was ordering a new car from a spec sheet I would never have selected it because to me the idea of high gloss piano black is something you see on a tv set. However, despite the idea of it not appealing to me I actually love it. I think it just looks awesome. Keep hunting.

still need this - pm sent

Still need one of these in good working condition - it is the standard factory part I am after.

I am interested in the following items if you strip the car... Steering Rack Engine Tail lights - both Bumpers - both Mirrors - both

Looking for a 3 bar fuel pressure regulator for e30 M40. RealOEM shows the regulator is used on e30 M40 powered 318 and 316 and on e34 M40 518. Later M40 engine as used in e36 has a different style regulator. Bosch part number: 0 280 160 285 BMW part number: 13531715114 Looks like part 6 in the picture. PM me here or txt 021 751 837 Thanks Mike

Thanks for the pointer - I now think I have been trying to fit the wrong part. I have two sensors that have different length cables (640mm and 570mm) and I didn't initially notice the difference. My original sensor has a wire about 640mm long and will run pretty much where you said - along the red line in my picture (actually an M42 but similar sensor position). I don't have the plastic wire holder shown in the M42 photo, just have one clip to hold wire away from pulley. The other sensor I was trying to use has a wire about 570mm long - it won't fit and is perhaps off a later motor where I think the sensor was mounted up higher. If I could get a longer wire version, say about 750mm, then I could go up over the water pipe like the M42 and it would be right up out of the way. In its original position the wire seems very vulnerable to nicks in the insulation. Otherwise, I will try and find one with 640mm wire and fit in original position. Does anyone know if these sensors are interchangeable with different length versions available?