turbolizard

Do you have a working iDrive?

Get some earmuffs

Thanks for the ideas. It might be that i need to try and find an EWS2 module and keys and align it as below. However, this is essentially what the emulator is supposed to do. If I can make it work the emulator is simpler as the car does not have any EWS wiring in it as it never had EWS originally. The engine is newer than the car, so putting an emulator inside the DME box is good stand alone setup (if I can get it to work of course). The DME for the M44B19 is Bosch M5.2 and I don't think this software approach is possible for this DME. That was my first idea too and I did a bit of investigation of this. Do you know someone who can do it on this M5.2 DME? Yes it is there and I can get to the menu. I have read the ISN from the DME and tried to write it to the emulator with INPA but I get some sort of comms error (IFH-0003: DATATRANSMISSIONTO INTERFACE DISTURBED). I seem to have some limited comms with emulator but the full INPA jobs don't always run. Only some of the parameters seem to be accessible, probably because the emulator is only approximately similar to the real EWS system. Will keep playing with INPA and Tool32. In the meantime if anyone has an EWS2 module that will suit my DME I would be happy to try playing around with that too.

I am trying to get an M44 transplant running using an EWS emulator on the original M44 DME. Unfortunately the original EWS module and keys that were paired with the DME are in a donor car that is long gone, which is why i need an emulator. INPA can read the ISN off the the DME without problems and all communications using INPA work perfectly so there is not likely to be any problem with my cables etc. However, when I switch to the emulator software to try and write the ISN to the EWS emulator chip I cannot communicate with it. Everything seems to operate fine, it tries for a while, then returns a message "No echo from k-line". Has anyone successfully done this and got any ideas? The basic approach I am taking is described in the link below, although I got the identical looking emulator chips from Aliexpress... https://www.ecutool.com/bmw-ews2-ews32-emulator_7875.html

How do you rate your coffee maker? I am quite interested in something like this, mainly for cars. Do you recommend?

Your research may have told you that these are prone to failure with age, due to repeated heat cycles. They can sometimes be repaired. AutoStop in Tauranga can do this but new modules are also available at reasonable prices and might be a better long term solution. I have had experience of having the repair done and have also bought a new module from overseas and had it coded here in NZ. Both solved the problem I had (yellow light trifecta). Have a look at http://www.maf-shop.com/ to get an idea on a new one. These guys are great to deal with and postage was cheap and fast. A new one will need coding to the car, and a second hand one might need recoding, whereas a repair of your module will not need recoding.

Believe it or not I have (when out of other options) successfully used both boiling water and a regular heat gun on separate occasions, although a gas flame is much better for getting heat where you want it. The heat just provides some differential expansion and you don't need much to get the taper to release. Heat it with whatever you have and give it a smack.

also quite interested in local version

Do you mean the control arm ball joints, which attach to subframe? These are on a taper (rather than being bolts) and will need a bit more effort to get out, possibly a bit of carefully placed heat where they fit into the subframe.

I have an e30 with which I put an M42 into so might be able to help with some of your questions. However my conversion was a bit simpler in a lot of ways. The car was originally M40 manual so the driveshaft was already correct for the Getrag 240 I had - the automatic one is the wrong length (I think it is too short). I did use an M20 flywheel, which was lightened and material was removed where clearance may be an issue on your M42 block. The engine arms are the same for M40 and M42 so no problems there. Exhaust I used an M44 header and had no clearance issues around the steering (manual steering for me). This will be easier to find than M42is manifold and looks like it might work better too (not tested). My engine has ITBs off an MR2, with wasted spark ignition and a Link computer. I made a custom wiring harness for the Link by hacking up an old M40 e30 harness to tie into the car as plug and play (I wanted to be able to put the old engine back). If you need help with the pin-outs for the C101 etc I have that info somewhere. It was pretty easy but time consuming. If i could give some advice it is make absolutely sure you invest the time to do the wiring to a really decent standard so you don't have to chase hard to find faults in the future. My car has been raced like this for three years and I have had no issues at all. I have raced cars and boats and proper wiring is critical for reliability (and sanity).

Another vote for Koni from me. I put them in my e34 540, which had factory M-sport springs. Really nice combo to drive on, including a good comfort factor.

The BMW Mini is eligible or the series. 2 litre is a naturally aspirated class only, but the Mini could also run in Open class if it is supercharged. There were a couple of Minis running at the last round, one in 2 litre and the other in Open. They went very well in the rain.

Check out this site. I think you wlll find a lot of useful info there. The page linked below is for ECU pin outs, but there are many pages of info on wiring colour codes and connectors etc... http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/ECU_Pinouts

A 1994 or 1995 NZ new BMW may have come from brand new without cats. I have an NZ new 94 540 that had option S199 which is "without catalytic converter". To find out what options your car came with try entering the last 7 characters of your VIN into a decoder like... https://www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/vin/decoder/online

The plastic air vents that let ventilation air out of the car can leak water through where they fit into the body. Worth checking if there is water below this vent level but not above it. It is the big black vent in the photo. Best way to check is with you inside the boot with a torch and someone outside with a hose. I have done this for a few leaks over the years and found the source very quickly. Get the person outside to start with the hose down low on the car and move up slowly.

I'm thinking about getting a new car just so I can put these wheels on it!.

So where are you located?

Car is looking really good. What was the Taupo event?

You could pay above the odds for a local one and come out ahead compared to importing. Importing is only worthwhile if the car is pretty high value, or just impossible to obtain otherwise. The freight and other costs will be as much or more than a local e30 318, even in manual. You might as well look for a higher priced but tidy one locally and be prepared to pay a slight premium to grab it.

We all feel like we paid too much for our e39 M5s - until we drive them home (going the long way). I have had mine for 6 years and not a single moment of regret. They are fantastic all rounders.

I'm interested in the loom cover. PM sent.

What engine electronics are you using with the ITBs?

Ad states it has had just one owner since 2002 (when it was only a year old), so likely to have been pretty well looked after. Only an enthusiast would buy at a year old and keep for 15 years.

Still after a bumper.

Looking for plastic front bumper for facelift e30. Any colour is ok. Also looking for black front bumper trim - a pair would be good but RHS needed most.