turbolizard

What is the factory routing of the m40 crank angle sensor wiring? Where is it supposed to go, while avoiding pulleys and belts? It just does not seem long enough to avoid the front pulleys. I found a picture of an m42 which shows the wire going up over the water pump piping, but the m40 sensor is not long enough for this. Picture anyone? Or a suggestion for a sensible route for the wiring.

It seems really stupid that you get fined more for "Learner Licence Unaccompanied" than you do for "Never Held a Drivers Licence". To make it worse, if you have a learners licence and didn't display L plate they add another $430. As stupid as the fines system is, it gets nowhere near the stupidity of the guy who racked up all these fines.

That's one of the most interesting posts I've read for ages! You didn't mention the plastic coat hanger. Are you sure you didn't just purchase a crime scene?

PM'd

James at Goodyear in Taupo is a bit of a BMW fan. May not have the size you need in stock though.

The e39 M5 genuine exhaust is pretty quiet. Most of what the driver can hear in an M5 is a sweet induction noise. If you have the genuine M5 mufflers then it will probably be disappointingly quiet.

OBC will beep for an ice warning when outdoor temperature drops below 3 degrees. It does it again if it warms up and then drops through 3 degrees again. Is that it?

The US pumps display AKI (Anti Knock Index) which is also called "Pump Octane". AKI is (RON + MON) / 2. RON is the research octane number, as displayed on pumps in NZ, and is obtained by a test under pretty favorable conditions. MON is motor octane number and is obtained by a test under tougher conditions that simulate higher load and hotter conditions. The MON test number is therefore quite a bit lower than RON. AKI, being the average of RON and MON, is therefore a lower number than RON for the same fuel. The MON is often about 9-10 octane numbers lower than RON, so as Allanw states above, the AKI comes out about 4-5 numbers lower. (Our 98 would probably sell 93 in the US).

Almost everyone will tell you to go for a solid flywheel. I did that when I replaced the clutch in my 540is and it works well. I am happy enough with what I have. However, I actually miss my dual mass flywheel. Let me explain. The 540 is a luxury car with excellent performance. It is a really fun car to drive and it sounds awesome when wound up. On the other hand, I also love the luxury interior and comfortable cruising and the dual mass flywheel was a great part of that. I used to think carpet in a car was just pointless extra weight, but times have changed. Gearbox rattle detracts from the luxury feel of the car and the clutch take up is sharper (that can sometimes be good). The dual mass flywheel was so smooth and nice I can totally understand why BMW specified it in the first place. Don't automatically think the dual mass is bad. If you know how to work a clutch properly they are not weak. The characteristics also suit many of the BMW models very well. In an M3 things might be different.

This is a pretty good way to look at it. Just factor it in when looking at the cost - you would pay GST if you purchased in NZ anyway. One thing to remember is to include the freight in your extra GST calcs.I have been charged GST almost every time I am over $400. Sometimes you will get other charges too, like MAF inspections on marine parts. Companies like DHL and UPS will charge additional clearance fees to process the paperwork. Normal parcel post services like USPS from USA have no extra charges and seem to be slightly less likely to get charged GST if only just over $400. Despite the lack of cost saving i love the choice and availability of stuff from offshore.

Is the hull built for an inboard? If not, there will be a lot of work to put in engine bearers etc. Also, 16ft of boat is not much length to start with. Put in a straight 6 inboard and do you have room left for people?Whether it is a good idea depends on what you want to achieve. If it is a cool old boat it might turn out pretty neat in a retro style, but it will never be a cheap way to have a good performing boat.

I have received good help from others on this board for nothing but a word of thanks. Glad I could do my bit to help someone else in return...

The twisted seat is a very common problem and easy to fix. Just search "bmw twisted seat" and you will find a lot of info on methods to fix it. The problem arises from constant twisting of the drive cables which eventually shortens them enough to disengage on one side. The various methods to fix this involve shortening the seat mechanism drive cable sheath to compensate. One method here... http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e5...eat-repair.html

Also have this on iPad but it doesn't bother me much either.

Thanks. To clarify... Car has always had the monitor (from new), so I just need the interconnecting cable (which I think looks like the one in the picture). I did not get any cables from Josh. I have plugged the nav unit in to my existing cables and it works fine. However, as I understand it, I still need the interconnecting cable to have the video module tv going and to get the wheel sensor input. I don't know what it is I need to order - looking at realoem I think it is part # 61126907842, but not sure (Car was built Sep 2000). I have a GPS antenna.

WTB navigation harness to connect mk4 nav unit to a nz new e39 that already has the tv installed. Can anyone supply locally? This is the harness in the boot that links the nav unit to the tv video module, not the harness needed to run to the front of the car (car already has that installed). I think it looks like the attached pic..

Keen to talk - PM sent

Then I find some e39 M5 running gear to put in that body and I reckon I have the perfect car.

I think it was about USD85 + freight (which was quite high) - maybe USD110-120 all up. I got it here for less than NZD200, paid by credit card, was easy and quick.My cell had yellowed and developed a bubble and as Neal says above, they can leak. The mirror for M5 is oval shaped so hard to find and expensive. I am real happy with it. The radar detector display install they do looks pretty trick, but I just needed a standard replacement.

I have purchased a replacement dimming mirror cell from radar-mirror for an e39 m5. The service was fast and the product quality seemed really good. Very happy with it. I would recommend. Dis-assembly of mirror to make replacement was pretty easy but needs care not to break the fragile tabs.

I will take the e34 washer bottle - if it is an e34 washer bottle in the picture.

You are correct that the e39 M5 has 4 regular tires and a can of goo and a compressor. It is a constant nagging worry.

Remember there is also a two second rule for boating. If you are in the air for more than two seconds, landing is going to hurt.

The steering system is galvanised wire (no stainless allowed!) and is the only way to go with this type of boat. All the fastest outboard race boats run it. A few have power assistance at the helm, but they still run wire to the engine wings. It gives a level of feel and precision that hyraulic can't match. Hydraulic is easy to turn, but feels dead, and you need to feel what the gearbox and prop are doing in the water to be able to drive a boat like this fast. Hydraulic systems are ususally pretty scary on a boat this fast - there are a few around - my advice is watch someone drive it first before accepting a ride.

I am interested in something that would work on e39 M5 if you have something in 17"