Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 13, 2009 I threw in all the sensors from a 325i and used a "164" ECU with 17.5lb m50b25 injectors. Now it's on MegaSquirt 1 V3 with 42lb injectors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30plz 1 Report post Posted June 13, 2009 Haha, pretty easy if you learn things for yourself. Before I had my e30 i knew nothing about cars, then I was always replacing stuff doing it myself and pretty much learned the inside and out of the entire car. By the time I was 18 last year, I had dropped the gearbox and done a full clutch job. Driveshaft rubber and hanger bearing. Rear subframe and all bushes. Swapped diff atleast 10 times. Front and rear springs (can do all around in less than an hour now so much practice lol). Shocks. Subframe, enginemounts, sway bars and control arms all bushes up front. Swapped an m20 motor myself from a de-regd chassis to my 4 door way back last year. So yeah, I pretty much have had apart everything in my car due to failure or just wanting to upgrade etc. Learn alot about your car this way. First hand experience and it's a good hobby to do stuff yourself. The 2.7 stroker came along as a side project cos I wanted to build a motor. Took me about 5 months to do it, took my time sourcing bits. Once built did the swap from m20b20 to m20 stroker by myself in a day haha. HUGE difference between the m20b20 and 2.7 stroker, Was quite amazed at power gained.. Have always wanted a turbod car though, and in an e30 would be mint so thought why the hell not eh! Truee truee, E30 + Boost = Alot of E30 owners dreams I bet, ha.Seems i've missed out alot of that by being lazy and taking it to the mechanic.. Doing a M20B20 to M20 Stroker swap in one day is pretty good ha. Looking foward to vids of this beast.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Apex Effects 3 Report post Posted June 16, 2009 +1 for vids makes me wish i had kept my FL 325 an built up. o well nissan for now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 17, 2009 +1 for vids makes me wish i had kept my FL 325 an built up. o well nissan for now Yep will do. Right now I am hooking up the last of the vacuum hoses and to the ECU, wire in the variable TPS then gonna see if she will run N/A.. (Pic's coming) Exhaust next week so no turbo until then... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Just finished all the wiring (M20 Variable TPS). Intake side of things is sorted. IAT, BOV, intercooler piping and Throttlebody is in place. Need some hose to connect the brake booster though (ATM I have 1 hose looped from one open end to the other so no brake booster vacuum, nor vacuum leak in the intake just temporary - pics shows nothing lol. Just trying to get it running now. Using standard bpr6es sparkplugs for now. Everything is in place, But I charge the battery and it's at 12.8V but won't crank just the starter clicks so I am gonna pull it and reinstall it just incase I didn't put it in right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Get yourself a wiring diagram if you haven't already and check to see what triggers the starter, you might find the ecu doesn't have anything to do with it and you've just left a wire off somewhere. Click suggests solenoid is engaging which should trigger the relay, check the main power wire? Only issue I can see TPS causing is if you go into flood clear mode, but it would still be cranking if that was the case. Also, are you planning on changing the plugs? going 1 or 2 colder wouldn't be a bad idea Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Get yourself a wiring diagram if you haven't already and check to see what triggers the starter, you might find the ecu doesn't have anything to do with it and you've just left a wire off somewhere. Click suggests solenoid is engaging which should trigger the relay, check the main power wire? Only issue I can see TPS causing is if you go into flood clear mode, but it would still be cranking if that was the case. Also, are you planning on changing the plugs? going 1 or 2 colder wouldn't be a bad idea Yep going to BRP7ES after abit of fine tuning (hotter plugs don't foul out as easy). I am really F'd off atm. I took the starter off, It cranks and spins all fine. Bolted back up - battery seems to weak will leave it over night. But upon jacking the car down I left a jack stand under the front of the car... So the car jacked down at the m-tech2 front valance dropped onto the hook of the jackstand and I didn't notice for about 5 mins cos the car was slightly higher than usual I looked at the front and the valance was all bent up..... LUCKILY no damage to it except all the paint in that area has chipped off............. damnit! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Just a thought, get a spanner on the crank and make sure the motor turns over by hand, sounds silly i know but just try it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Just a thought, get a spanner on the crank and make sure the motor turns over by hand, sounds silly i know but just try it. Yeah I have done that already. FFS jacked the car on the left side, all the oil poured out the oil drain hole in the oil pan........... omfg!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 ^ From my experience: if shiz like the above happens, just leave it for 24 hours walk away and come back later and it makes things a lot easier Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Yeah leaving it until tomorrow.. Mad! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 ^ From my experience: if shiz like the above happens, just leave it for 24 hours walk away and come back later and it makes things a lot easier Sooooo true lol! I just spent all evening putting my RX7 injectors and hooked up all my Rising rate FPR and the damn car wont start... tried hooking my standard injectors back up now they dont seal into the fuel rail properly got so angry now my parents cant get their cars into the garage lol.. sounds like we both had a good night on our E30's John haha, Like Nath said give it 24hrs As far as the starter motor goes does yours have 3 terminals on it or 2? If it has 3, 2 of them are the smaller ones i think and they gotta be round the right way im pretty sure, dont quote me on this though memories a bit vauge since mine and blairs manual conversions.... just a thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 It's got the 3. I checked and played with terminals. Got no starters spare anymore, gave away / sold my others when i got this one just over a year ago which was a rebuilt one.. Has always worked mint. It worked fine the other week when I gave it a test crank. Hopefully full battery charge gives it what it needs. Not sure why the battery keeps draining so fast too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Earth strap! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Earth strap! It's there. Lol. Went through everything initially trying to get a crank without sprakplugs, TB, and most other stuff not on to test the ECU. Now it's all on, the battery was dead too, last time it wouldn't work until I left it over night so I am hoping same scenario today.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) Anyways... TO DO LIST AS OF 19/06/09. -Get it running for now!! -Still need a new slave cylinder, bleed clutch etc. -Heat wrap manifold. -Get an exhaust system made up, Have the tip and a middle straight through muffler for it ready. -Heat wrap the downpipe. -Oil feed line installed to turbo. Cert. -Will probably need to add in Driveshaft loops. -plumb wastegate into the exhaust maybe, if they require that for cert (Otherwise will block off the wastegate flane on manifold so there is no wastegate, Not sure if it's acceptable for cert though). Final step is to have it running around 10psi for now. See how well I can tune it on the street, with megasquirt. Time will tell hopefully I can get it running and the only thing I am worrying about is idle as I have no ICV but yeah! Edited June 18, 2009 by FrantiC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30BMA 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 -plumb wastegate into the exhaust maybe, if they require that for cert (Otherwise will block off the wastegate flane on manifold so there is no wastegate, Not sure if it's acceptable for cert though). Definately gotta be plumbed back into the exhaust for a cert. IMO Wouldnt drive it without a wastgate, would hate to damage the engine and ruin all your hard work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 It cranks but doesn't wanna start. I am thinking too much fuel.. Don't have time to muck around with it until next week so yeah..... It cranks fine. There is a spark. And the smell of fuel is there, also big puffs of black smoke when it manages to fire up but doesn't stay there. Think I will need to go through make sure all the sensors are calibrated correctly... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 CBF reading back - is it sparking in the right place (have you checked the timing while cranking). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 18, 2009 CBF reading back - is it sparking in the right place (have you checked the timing while cranking). Well nah, I can't tell what position it's at to know if it is firing at the right time but it should be as it is running off the stock dizzy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 So what was the prob with it not cranking at the beginning? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted June 18, 2009 I'll reword the question, are you confident the dizzy is in the right position to deliver the spark being triggered by the ECU at the appropriate time? It will need two things: 1) dizzy timed correctly, and 2) ECU getting the right signal and with the right ignition offset, if required, with an appropriate timing setting for starting/idling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted June 20, 2009 I'll reword the question, are you confident the dizzy is in the right position to deliver the spark being triggered by the ECU at the appropriate time? It will need two things: 1) dizzy timed correctly, and 2) ECU getting the right signal and with the right ignition offset, if required, with an appropriate timing setting for starting/idling. Guys told me the map is for 19lb injectors need o sort out from my 42lbslol.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted June 20, 2009 I dont see a problem with a wastegate blocked off with a sealed plate.. as far as wof and cert is concerned you cannot have a leaking exhaust system between the motor and rear end of your vehicle. But hey thats just theory John they no doubt will know your exact intentions with there being no pipe between your wastegate out let into the downpipe... But hey try it I wanna know how you get on for when I go for my cert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) Bigger injectors will just be rich. Have you checked the timing is right yet? If you block the wastegate, when the cert guy jumps on the throttle the first time he accelerates to 100kph to test the brakes, you'll get a hell of a fright as it boosts uncontrollably. It will be fun but not much good for the engine. Edited June 20, 2009 by CamB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
