E30S50

[hybrid 1043]

how did you get on in the end with the flywheel ?

[Jamez 2147483647]

got one in from the states, goes well only needs a good driver to push it a bit harder

[*Glenn* 854]

got one in from the states, goes well only needs a good driver to push it a bit harder

What did you get for it James... UUC ???

[Jamez 2147483647]

TBH I have no idea, Andy at RaceFX ordered it in.

[Jamez 2147483647]

Took the air-box off to fix the oil psi sender (faulty sender unit), then decided to leave it off, going to put a pipe from the headlight through, just to circulate some cold air, really hums now and car sounds a lot less tinny.

note - oil pot is being installed, otherwise oil goes everywhere at high rpm's.

[hybrid 1043]

At least pop some foam 'carb' style air filters on it to stop grit from getting in there. It will prematurly wear the engine out otherwise (not counting some big moth and other insects that will end up there).

I would be very interested to se a before and after dyno result for this especailly in the higher RPM ranges. I would expect lower RPM to suffer?

[Jamez 2147483647]

So... we got a problem and its not due to the new air intake

At its first meeting we noticed that when the car was fully rev'd to 7900 it would creep up to 90 degrees, then when short shifted at 7000 the problem would go away.

At taupo on Saturday this got worse, short shift would sit at 80 then revving it out would goto 100 degrees

on Sunday no matter what, after 4-6 laps (10min of racing) it overheats(instantly to 120), no matter what you do. Then Boils

Any suggestions? we are running the standard airbox at the moment, used the other setup just for the friday testday, sh*t it sounded good over 6000, almost like the DTM e30 M3's

Have not taken it apart yet, but various people at the track suggested Water pump or the headgasket........

[BM WORLD 1283]

running lean??? fan not keeping up??

[CamB 48]

Are you confident that both the radiator and oil cooler are getting good airflow? Ideally, they'll have ducting to (a) make sure air is getting to them and more importantly (b.) make sure any air that gets to the radiator/cooler goes through it (ie, can't get around it).

Also, do you have an oil temp sensor?

Edited February 7, 2010 by CamB

[Jamez 2147483647]

cheers for the ideas, fuel seems to be normal but could the altitude of Taupo affect this? as it doesn't have a AFM or MAF to measure how much air is getting in, everything was pre set from the dyno tune

Will have a look at the radiators today and see what the air flow is like. We don't have a oil Temp sensor but Oil Pressure, when hot the car's oil pressure sits at 20 on idle then 70-90 when being revved.

Fan should be ok as once your over 100km/h the amount of air passing through from going fast is a lot more than a fan can do.

Car is in Takapuna if anyone wants to come have a looksee

Edited February 7, 2010 by Jamez

[hybrid 1043]

So... we got a problem and its not due to the new air intake

At its first meeting we noticed that when the car was fully rev'd to 7900 it would creep up to 90 degrees, then when short shifted at 7000 the problem would go away.

This is one problem with the standard water pump design ... it gets over driven and actually stalls the water the impellar is reving too high.

Or it could be the efficientcy of your radiatior .. look at maybe a bigger core and longer piping.

Tuner motorsport I think make a race water pump for not too much.

Are you running under drive pullys?

Also the e30 airflow to e36 radiatior is a bit crap ... maybe look into ducting. Im looking at dremelling out my tech1 bumper factory holes under the number plate for this very reason.

[Andrew 30]

For reference James - in that same race I was seeing 120 deg cel oil and 70 - 80 water temp.

[Jamez 2147483647]

Talked to Ernst, he seemed really confused but suggested it might be leaning out in the higher revs.

am going to take the waterpump out now to have a look and do a compression test, if no problem is found i'm going to go see Gavin and get it run up on the dyno to see if anything obvious comes up.

Just thinking back, when we first went round Hampton Downs we had the same problem, but this was fixed with a swirl pot, maybe it is fuel related?

[CamB 48]

If anything I think altitude might make it run rich if you are only using Alpha-N ---> less dense air than mapped for at sea level = richer?

[Jamez 2147483647]

yeah, while I was pulling the water pump that did occur to me. I have since found the water pump and thermostat are in perfect condition..............which means it is somthing else I am going to do a compression test, then if nothing odd comes up its off to Gavin

I will also do an oil change as the oil is black as, which might account for part of the overheating.

[Silver Fox 43]

What Josh is suggesting would occur regardless of the condition of the pump. He's saying the pump will be going faster than the turbine is designed to work, and won't be pulling the water thru properly, if at all. It will be forming a stopper which may be acting as a gate and not allowing the water to even circulate? A possibility?

[BM WORLD 1283]

What Josh is suggesting would occur regardless of the condition of the pump. He's saying the pump will be going faster than the turbine is designed to work, and won't be pulling the water thru properly, if at all. It will be forming a stopper which may be acting as a gate and not allowing the water to even circulate? A possibility?

maybe thats what was happening to my m5 engine (blew 2 head gasgets old ones though) , due to me getting a remap and using all the revs up to 6500rpm every gear change

[Jamez 2147483647]

I cant see it being a problem with the pump as the silver Z4 M coupe in the open class uses an identical setup and rev range but has no problems.

[OLLIE 26]

I cant see it being a problem with the pump as the silver Z4 M coupe in the open class uses an identical setup and rev range but has no problems.

that's a Z3 M coupe ... aka my least favourite looking bmw!

[Jamez 2147483647]

woops, meant to type Z3

Finally got round to taking the logged data off the ECU from the Saturday at Hampton Downs, most race's it was only revved up to ~6300 and the temp did as follows

In the first Race it started at ~80 degrees and finished on ~82

In the 2nd Race it started at ~82 degrees and finished on ~86

In the 3rd Race it started at ~85 degrees and finished on ~90

In the last Race it started at ~89 degrees and finished on ~95

So each race it was getting hotter and hotter.....I should have really checked this a few weeks ago.

[hybrid 1043]

Use an under drive pully on the water pump and see how you go, I think that and opening up the airflow shield and possibly extra ducting.

Pauls car is meant to have the correct airflow for his radiator as its designed for the radiator.. e30's have a pretty bad airflow over the radiator (for e36 based engines run at full tit).. Its actually pretty amazing how much difference small changes in core size / pipe sizes and under driving therefore slowing down the water pump at high RPM.

Also are you running a puller or pusher electric fan?

I have to run a pusher 14inch fan as dont think a 16inch puller fan will fit between my new larger radiator and the engine. 90% its going fit

[Jamez 2147483647]

its a pusher electric fan, as in infront of the radiator?

Started it up to do the Tee-Kay Test, It didn't overheat at all, Sat on 80 after running for 20 mins, then did the test, Didn't turn yellow at all after 5min, so I did the test on the exhaust to make sure its correct and it went yellow straight away.

That would suggest there are no leaks between the water and combustion chambers and with it not burning oil, that rules out that also.

Also..

• There is also no water in oil or oil in water.
• The water pump and thermostat are also fine
• It does not overheat while on idle
• It only overheats after ~7-9 min of racing.

It can only be that something is wrong with the fuel, or the cooling system isn't doing its job.

[CamB 48]

Cooling system - radiator flow and oil cooler size. That's my bet (with your money!)

[Jamez 2147483647]

For those who were wondering what the overheating problem was......loose headbolts

Edited October 16, 2010 by Jamez

[Jamez 2147483647]

Wooo new stuff well just e36 control arms, Heaps more on the way.

Before with e30 arms

After with E36 M3 Evo arms

Next job is to add the front lip and splitter, havent done it yet so here's a pic of one on Kevins M3

Just some random pics I took once the control arms were in...

and to finish it off a random shot of a missing diff and the adapters that hold the e46 calipers on. Diff is being rebuilt at the moment but should be back in by next weekend.

Edited October 16, 2010 by Jamez