Ethrty-Andys Twincam

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

hey all!

trust the people following the build will have had the email from the 'fest anyway, but for those that dont, lots of updates since last post, and made the first attempted start today. Click my signature to go to the build thread. if anyone can offer suggestions for the no start that would be great (for the purposes of this, assume EWS is wired correctly)

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

Still havent had any luck with starting the car yet. Have checked over my wiring 3 times and every time it comes back sweet! have verified voltages across the correct wires at the correct time and everything *should* work. But it doesnt.

Have brought a Diagnositic Scanner, and its coming up with the following errors

18 - EWS - Signal Defective/No Camshaft Bore Signal. Huh??

217 - EGS - No contact with the automatic transmission. Is this talking about the shift selector switch, or is it wanting to be able to talk to the transmissions computer? I do not have the automatic computer. Is it possible to desolder/unclip a particular chip in the manual ECU and put it into my auto ECU? Or any other ideas i havent thought of?

81 - ABS/ASC - Increased no load speed. WTF?? ABS/ASC is non existant in my car. no idea on how to get around this. again, is it looking for a 12v or 0v signal, or is it wanting to be able to talk to the ABS/ASC computer, or something else?

I also know the pins now, and the number at the start of each of the above is the pin they give/recieve thier respective signals from on the ECU

You guys think it would be a good idea to post this on an E36 specific forum? Thanks for your help! Andy

[mark247 38]

I'd be posting q's in r3v, they seem to be the most knowledgable when it comes to 24v swaps.

[*Glenn* 854]

Still havent had any luck with starting the car yet. Have checked over my wiring 3 times and every time it comes back sweet! have verified voltages across the correct wires at the correct time and everything *should* work. But it doesnt.

Have brought a Diagnositic Scanner, and its coming up with the following errors

18 - EWS - Signal Defective/No Camshaft Bore Signal. Huh??

217 - EGS - No contact with the automatic transmission. Is this talking about the shift selector switch, or is it wanting to be able to talk to the transmissions computer? I do not have the automatic computer. Is it possible to desolder/unclip a particular chip in the manual ECU and put it into my auto ECU? Or any other ideas i havent thought of?

81 - ABS/ASC - Increased no load speed. WTF?? ABS/ASC is non existant in my car. no idea on how to get around this. again, is it looking for a 12v or 0v signal, or is it wanting to be able to talk to the ABS/ASC computer, or something else?

I also know the pins now, and the number at the start of each of the above is the pin they give/recieve thier respective signals from on the ECU

You guys think it would be a good idea to post this on an E36 specific forum? Thanks for your help! Andy

Didn,t someone mention previously that you might run into these problems ? and another few words like "budget" & "research, research, research" ??

[mark247 38]

Didn,t someone mention previously that you might run into these problems ? and another few words like "budget" & "research, research, research" ??

yea just throw money at it, it's really satisfying.

He'll sort it, research done now is just as reliable as research done before.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

I'd be posting q's in r3v, they seem to be the most knowledgable when it comes to 24v swaps.

Already done

Didn,t someone mention previously that you might run into these problems ? and another few words like "budget" & "research, research, research" ??

Vaguely..

He'll sort it, research done now is just as reliable as research done before.

Exactly.

Edited May 3, 2010 by ethrty320

[Guest Ari Gold]

yea just throw money at it, it's really satisfying.

He'll sort it, research done now is just as reliable as research done before.

Is this a new take on measure twice, cut once?

[mark247 38]

Is this a new take on measure twice, cut once?

Ha, that's one way you could look at it. Touche.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

not long now exhaust fabbed today.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost....p;postcount=168

[*Glenn* 854]

It's been 9 days now...whats happening Andrew ???

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

work mostly.

trust me glenn, you will be the FIRST to know when i finish this conversion

why do you ask?

[Mark 178]

Calm it down boys... if you have a problem with someone take it to PM please.

[*Glenn* 854]

why do you ask?

Because I was actually interested in how it was coming along... there is nothing new on your favourite BMW forum either... was just curious thats all

[dirtydoogle 383]

Hope all goes well dude. 24V ftw

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

Because I was actually interested in how it was coming along... there is nothing new on your favourite BMW forum either... was just curious thats all

oh right, i thought you were trying to pick a fight or something. in that case ill give a bit more detail

have been working quite a lot lately so i havent done any physical work on the car since forever and a half ago bar dropping off and pickiing the car up from exhaust. Mostly have been researching/playing around with the wiring for the car.

I believe EWS is all taken care of now, and i just have a few other bits and pieces on the car to finish off, like for example the engine does not want to crank over like it did when it was first wired up. the starter tries to turn the engine over, but for some reason is only getting about 5V. as you (probably) know, it cranked happy as Larry before. Theoretically, once i can get the engine to crank, it should start.

I also have a drain in the car somewhere which im pretty certain is on my ACC circuit as thats the only E30 circuit i have tapped into prior to the conversion, so i have to investigate that. Have always had it (caused me to get stranded in Aucks when i was up there for BDO), but its gotten quite bad now to the point of a fully charged battery going flat within half a day

it creeps (slowly) ever nearer

Edited April 26, 2010 by ethrty320

[mark247 38]

Have you tried push starting it?

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

been tempted to of course! but for obvious reasons thats not a good idea. Theres a reason why it doesnt go, and push starting it doesnt solve the problem of the starter not being friendly

[mark247 38]

You have more patience than me. Mine was up the road before it even had an exhaust.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

You have more patience than me. Mine was up the road before it even had an exhaust.

Patience is more important than tools or anything else for a full OBD2 conversion, closely followed by research. I know it will all be worth it in the end

[pureboiracer 0]

Is this going yet?????

You know it took me and my flatmate 4 days to do this?

[Forrest 35]

Pretty sure research is more important than patience, because if you did research before starting this, your patience wouldn't be tested as much...common sense IMO.

[pureboiracer 0]

^lol.... nath so true...

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

Is this going yet?????

You know it took me and my flatmate 4 days to do this?

Not yet. will post when it is.

In an ideal world that would be me too. Im sure it could be achieved in less than that tbh.

Because its clear that the people asking havent actually read my real build thread, I will tell you why it isnt. Unfortunately i had time pressures to get the engine mounted into the car because i couldnt leave the car at my lock up for more than a few weeks because i had a bus renting the space my car was sitting in which was returning from a holiday or repairs or something. You know how much of a PITA the gearbox is to get at, and there was no point pulling the gearbox to fix/replace when its going to be replaced again in less than 6 months time. Since the engine has been installed, its pretty much been the research when i can be bothered and sweet f**k all else. This is why its taken 3 months and not 4 days. I actually have no need for a car at the moment anyway so its not like its an annoyance i dont have it.

Pretty sure research is more important than patience, because if you did research before starting this, your patience wouldn't be tested as much...common sense IMO.

Thats true

Edited May 3, 2010 by ethrty320

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

Getting to the stage where i seem to be going backwards with this thing

a few weeks ago the car cranked solidly as anything and it was a case of sorting out the EWS and it would be done and drivable by now. Unfortunately something has come up and i have no idea where to look. Since the car cranked solidly last time, the only wires i have touched are adding one wire to the DME from the EWS, telling the EWS the car is in Park (ECU/EWS etc from an ex auto car, M52 loom from a manual), and connecting up the fuel rate on the gauge cluster (i know that wont be accurate but i wanted it anyway). Reverting back to my old loom adaptor (thereby deleting these connections again) does not go back to how the car was.

Now when i apply 13.5V to the battery and put the key in the ignition and turn to ON (with the use of either my original adaptor or my second one with the extra connections), the main relay clicks open and closed reletively quickly with the speed that stock E30s make when there is insuffcient battery power. The ICV does not open/turn on, and is probably due to the main relay clicking open and closed. When i turn the key to start, the main relay stops clicking, and, other than that, the car makes no physical responce what so ever, except that the voltage across the battery drops to between 2 and 5V.

Things I have checked

- continuity/resistance between positive on battery and positive on starter

- ditto for negative, including via ground strap

- The ignition wire to the starter receives the virtually the full 13.5V when key is turned to start

- Motor is not seized or otherwise unable to move, can be turned over easily by hand

- To the best i have been told by other people, all of my wiring matches that of other OBD2 E30s, including those the same as mine

- All relays in the fusebox/M52 loom are in working condition, and all fuses are good (because i dont know off the top of my head which relay is which (except obviously the main relay) i tested them all)

I cannot think of any other reason why this should not be running now, neither can the main contacts i have been using for this swap, and i cant find anything on the internet relating to this issue.

Anyone have any ideas?

[*Glenn* 854]

I'm a bit to far away to help.... maybe you should try this guy ?

"Need a diagnostic scan on your '88-'08 BMW or Mini in the Wellington area? Give me a PM"

Edited May 3, 2010 by *Glenn*