Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Garett

GDM - E36 Drift/Race Project

Recommended Posts

haha damn..

looks like you already did work to fit them? Can you fit wider rubber on them ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

at 0 camber no bigger than 225/40 but if i was to add some more camber i should be able to run a wider tire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

replica rims usually weigh quite abit dont they?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

replica rims usually weigh quite abit dont they?

Yeah man they weight a sh*t load... i think i may have to keep looking. ill set up my guards for these wheels because i can aways space out other wheels to suit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess you are going to use this car for drift and not race?

Ill do both and see what one im better at and stick to that lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i got the day off work again today and got a wee bit done...

i removed the rubber seal from the seams in the engine bay and welded 1" long welds between the factory spot welds to give the strut towers a bit more strength. i also did a bit of panel beating in the engine bay and filled a few unused holes with weld and a thin skim of bog sanded back with the D.A. to a smooth finish, still a bit more to do in there this week before i can paint it, hopefully this weekend :)

post-2228-1334570326.jpg

post-2228-1334570339.jpg

post-2228-1334570352.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I started my new job at SDeuropean BMW/Audi and VW today so if you need any goodies let me know :)

Anyway this turbo, you think this will be the go??

T04z on trademe

and a maybe a design option pic?

post-2228-1335172085.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I started my new job at SDeuropean BMW/Audi and VW today so if you need any goodies let me know :)

Anyway this turbo, you think this will be the go??

T04z on trademe

and a maybe a design option pic?

depending the power your after its a 800hp turbo it is the better of the smaller gt range and normal retail is 2700plus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That turbo looks rather cheap for what it is. What are you doing for the engine? shimmed gasket or full forged big boss gear?

I should be ordering in a thicker headgasket and some arp head studs soon if you'd like to share shipping

Congrats on the job

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That turbo looks rather cheap for what it is. What are you doing for the engine? shimmed gasket or full forged big boss gear?

I should be ordering in a thicker headgasket and some arp head studs soon if you'd like to share shipping

Congrats on the job

thanks :)

I had a look at the T04z on wed, looks good, i will be buying the turbo next week, it is a twin scroll one for 1500, and a link g4 wire-in to come, i will set it up and run it on this m50b28nv i built at the start of this thread, and then will build another one on forged rods and pistons. im not going to run a thicker head gasket but a steel one??, but some arp studs would be nice, pm me the cost on them.

what do you reckon about flipping the m52 exhaust manifolds over and welding two pipes and running to the turbo? utilizing the two scrolls on the turbo.. twin waste gated too.? save time on the tricky parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks :)

I had a look at the T04z on wed, looks good, i will be buying the turbo next week, it is a twin scroll one for 1500, and a link g4 wire-in to come, i will set it up and run it on this m50b28nv i built at the start of this thread, and then will build another one on forged rods and pistons. im not going to run a thicker head gasket but a steel one??, but some arp studs would be nice, pm me the cost on them.

what do you reckon about flipping the m52 exhaust manifolds over and welding two pipes and running to the turbo? utilizing the two scrolls on the turbo.. twin waste gated too.? save time on the tricky parts.

yes to all thats a cheap way to do a turbo using j pipes and works pretty dam good and your now thinking the smart way by planing ahead, the steel gasket is fine to start with until you build a more serious motor then things change somewhat the ARP stud kits are around 80us and you can pick them up cheap on EBAY.

you can get away with a single 46mm gate and tap into both up pipes at a 45 deg angle you should have enough room to do so if you mount it further forward, the exhaust is where it gets tight but as i said before of you can stand the motor up it well worth the extra room to run one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

where are $80us arp's? i'll definately buy some of those. Cheapest i've been quoted or seen is nearly double that.

Your after a bit more power then I am. Looking forward to seeing how the 2.8L lasts with some good tuning. Not to mention everything between the engine and the tyres

I'll personally be making my own manifold(when I find a turbo or mock up turbo). It seems that the flipped manifolds work and if crunchy gives a thumbs up why not.

With the plug and play you might have a few problems with using the non vanos engine. I'm not sure if ecu pinouts are different. I do know the trigger points are different. Not a big deal but it makes it a little more tempting to spend a bit more and get an xtreme. Well it's a lot more if you get carried away with rewiring things

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

where are $80us arp's? i'll definately buy some of those. Cheapest i've been quoted or seen is nearly double that.

Your after a bit more power then I am. Looking forward to seeing how the 2.8L lasts with some good tuning. Not to mention everything between the engine and the tyres

I'll personally be making my own manifold(when I find a turbo or mock up turbo). It seems that the flipped manifolds work and if crunchy gives a thumbs up why not.

With the plug and play you might have a few problems with using the non vanos engine. I'm not sure if ecu pinouts are different. I do know the trigger points are different. Not a big deal but it makes it a little more tempting to spend a bit more and get an xtreme. Well it's a lot more if you get carried away with rewiring things

with the exchange rate seriously give ebay a once over youll be amazed whats there and compared to whats being asked here along with hawk race pads the blues or hp plus around 100us a set

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just a quick update....

left side guards paneled and primed most dents removed, also added extra support top of strut towers, i used the thickest top hat i could find with the 3 bolt that matched and cut it up and welded it on, so that and all the seam welding with use of the cross brace and strut brace should make it a lil bit more rigid right. im going to make my own strut brace one the engines in, this one i got is a bit thin in the wall.

post-2228-1335526503.jpg

post-2228-1335526525.jpg

post-2228-1335526542.jpg

post-2228-1335526586.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes to all thats a cheap way to do a turbo using j pipes and works pretty dam good and your now thinking the smart way by planing ahead, the steel gasket is fine to start with until you build a more serious motor then things change somewhat the ARP stud kits are around 80us and you can pick them up cheap on EBAY.

you can get away with a single 46mm gate and tap into both up pipes at a 45 deg angle you should have enough room to do so if you mount it further forward, the exhaust is where it gets tight but as i said before of you can stand the motor up it well worth the extra room to run one.

I think the j pipes should do if im doing it myself, although my mate at dyno power today says he can make one better than the one on my facebook page for pretty cheap. yeah crunchy the new engine will get the treatment, all the bling haha spinning rims and all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the j pipes should do if im doing it myself, although my mate at dyno power today says he can make one better than the one on my facebook page for pretty cheap. yeah crunchy the new engine will get the treatment, all the bling haha spinning rims and all.

OMG SPINNING RIMS !!!!!!!! hahahah mate had some on his rolla now that was sad

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the plug and play you might have a few problems with using the non vanos engine. I'm not sure if ecu pinouts are different. I do know the trigger points are different. Not a big deal but it makes it a little more tempting to spend a bit more and get an xtreme. Well it's a lot more if you get carried away with rewiring things

Got the g4 extreme now, i got it on loan from my brother. i will need to buy the loom and map sensor unit, what else will i need to get this engine running?? oxy sensor etc.. knock sensors...??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OMG SPINNING RIMS !!!!!!!! hahahah mate had some on his rolla now that was sad

yeah lol wtf :rolleyes: , that phase/era didnt last long haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the g4 extreme now, i got it on loan from my brother. i will need to buy the loom and map sensor unit, what else will i need to get this engine running?? oxy sensor etc.. knock sensors...??

you may need some link sensors and check of the link can read the crank/cam triggers ok wouldn't worry about the knock setup if the tuner knows what hes doing to start with you wont get knock unless something fails and the 02 again just for tuning or if you want to do data logging and change things yourself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you may need some link sensors and check of the link can read the crank/cam triggers ok wouldn't worry about the knock setup if the tuner knows what hes doing to start with you wont get knock unless something fails and the 02 again just for tuning or if you want to do data logging and change things yourself.

Cool, but i have loads of knock sensors lying around worth chucking two on, the block has the mounts for em. I would like to learn how to do all the data logging and tuning of it myself with ma laptop, its quite interesting stuff.

Got my turbo today... :D

post-2228-1335590457.jpg

post-2228-1335590597.jpg

post-2228-1335590659.jpg

post-2228-1335590673.jpg

post-2228-1335590693.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will need a 6 channel igniter for the link also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will need a 6 channel igniter for the link also

from memmory you can use a Nissan rb ignitor? you'll also need to machine the crank pulley to suit and another two or three pickups for the cam sensor depending on how smart the link is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from memmory you can use a Nissan rb ignitor? you'll also need to machine the crank pulley to suit and another two or three pickups for the cam sensor depending on how smart the link is.

Yeah you can, I had problems trying to find someone who would sell me one with the plugs for it at a reasonable price.

I would be surprised if the link needed any modifications to the crank pulley / triggering system, I think they can read and decode the 60-2 motronic trigger these days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...