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jeffbebe

E39 V8 restoration

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Yep that's normal. Sounds like a vacum cleaner in slow motion.

I expected the V8 to run hotter but the fan sounds like a helicopter taking off sometimes... Surely it was never meant to be that loud!

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Wow... BPA free?

A nice bit of colour looks great... body colour looks way better than fake looking "wood" though. I really like the picture Jeffbebe showed with the red. Not for my car, but looks cool.

At least it's real wood in a bimmer. The un-sun-damaged trim in my 528 looked beautiful but it does look sh*t once the sun's done its work. Will sand the maroon trim this weekend and re-install - hopefully it will look good. Did anyone have advice re: finishing it. I'm planning to wet sand with 1500 grit once the paint's cured. Will it be okay without a clear coat. I don't want it to be too shiny but I also don't want to over sand (especially the corner edges).

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i do like that painted trim, dont think ill have that in mine though.

but i had the reddy wood in my E34, not sure what wood its supposed to be, grain looks like walnut but a bit redder than that would usually be.

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The pic I posted with red trim is actually leather. I'm trying to a similar matte/satin finish without the expense of an auto trimmer... I maybe dreaming.

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Did anyone have advice re: finishing it. I'm planning to wet sand with 1500 grit once the paint's cured. Will it be okay without a clear coat. I don't want it to be too shiny but I also don't want to over sand (especially the corner edges).

Not too sure I'm following this right but, the idea behind wet sanding is to remove the orange peel before buffing to make it shine. If you want a satin or flat look you need to use a satin or flat paint and leave it as it comes off the gun/can. If you sand it, it will be difficult to get it to look even. It might have a finish similar to 'brushed' aluminium.

PS my fan makes an inappropriate racket too.

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Some cars suit wood if it's in good condition, but yeah they are usually from the 90's - I don't think it's out of place on E34s or E39s.

E36 with that stick on wood is an example of tacky detailing, I'm not even sure if those add ons are even a thin wood veneer or just some synthetic stuff.

My 540i E34 had nice wood in good condition, looked good with the two tone white/grey dash.

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Not too sure I'm following this right but, the idea behind wet sanding is to remove the orange peel before buffing to make it shine. If you want a satin or flat look you need to use a satin or flat paint and leave it as it comes off the gun/can. If you sand it, it will be difficult to get it to look even. It might have a finish similar to 'brushed' aluminium.

Paint has a pretty flat finish but I want to get rid of the texture from the spray paint (can) so it feels smooth. Did a pretty good job so no orange peel it just has a rough finish. Would I be better to use a cutting compound just to get rid of the very top layer of paint 'dust' to smooth it off rather than wet sanding?

PS my fan makes an inappropriate racket too.

If it's okay on the beast then it's okay on mine!! Edited by jeffbebe

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Ive always thought wood trim looked nice 90's 5\7 series as well. Couple of from my E32's

post-733-1370411012.jpg

post-733-1370411018.jpg

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i like your pic of the red interior accents, though to fully replicate that look i suggest you get a manual gearbox....

also pics please?????

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i like your pic of the red interior accents, though to fully replicate that look i suggest you get a manual gearbox....

also pics please?????

Assuming all goes to plan I'll finish off the trim and reinstall this weekend. Will post pics and a DIY then though the I have to admit, I did have pro help with the sanding:

post-16586-1370425714.jpeg

Got this to do soon as well - chrome instrument gauge rings, red needle paint and pixel strip replacement to fix a few dead pixels. Gauge rings and needle painting's a cinch and will look good when finished but the pixel repair instructions look like a bit of a mission, so I've been putting that job off...

post-16586-1370426476.jpg

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Looking forward to seeing how the gauges go. Always something I wanted to try but never had the balls to mess around in there for fear of knocking something out of calibration (don't even know if this is possible)

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Paint has a pretty flat finish but I want to get rid of the texture from the spray paint (can) so it feels smooth. Did a pretty good job so no orange peel it just has a rough finish. Would I be better to use a cutting compound just to get rid of the very top layer of paint 'dust' to smooth it off rather than wet sanding?

If it's okay on the beast then it's okay on mine!!

'Bout all you can do is give it a go. The worse that can happen is you have to repaint it. Cutting compounds are a hard core polish so dont be surprised if it ends up with a gloss.

Be carefull though if you've used a can as there wont be a lot of paint to work with.

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child labour is no laughing matter Julian!

:P

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'Bout all you can do is give it a go. The worse that can happen is you have to repaint it. Cutting compounds are a hard core polish so dont be surprised if it ends up with a gloss.

Be carefull though if you've used a can as there wont be a lot of paint to work with.

Good advice, thanks Tony.

child labour is no laughing matter Julian!

:P

Why do you think I ensured his manacles are out of shot?! Edited by jeffbebe

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Looking forward to seeing how the gauges go. Always something I wanted to try but never had the balls to mess around in there for fear of knocking something out of calibration (don't even know if this is possible)

You only need to recalibrate if you actually take the needles off (i.e. if you want to change the gauges themselves or the needles), hence why I prefer to repaint the white needles on the cluster rather than replacing. The pixel fix is a bit more of a drama; to avoid removing the gauges - and therefore having to recalibrate - you have to drill some small holes (which are out of sight) to get at some torx screws underneath. Debating whether to do it myself or spend $150-200 at Robinson Instruments and get them to do it.
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Yeah fiddling with the needles is one job to avoid where possible , I replaced my temperature gauge with a variable rate VDO unit and refitted the needle by having a resistor on the sender end to give a 90-95 degree reading, ideal as the mid point position for the needle to sit.

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You only need to recalibrate if you actually take the needles off (i.e. if you want to change the gauges themselves or the needles), hence why I prefer to repaint the white needles on the cluster rather than replacing. The pixel fix is a bit more of a drama; to avoid removing the gauges - and therefore having to recalibrate - you have to drill some small holes (which are out of sight) to get at some torx screws underneath. Debating whether to do it myself or spend $150-200 at Robinson Instruments and get them to do it.

I did mine, but that's kinda the stuff I do (Medical Equipment). It really not hard, if you have a good guide, some patience and a low speed, very light/small drill. DON'T try to use a 18V Makita or similar! I used a small electric die grinder and awesomly sharp drills, I made a small hole, checked to see I was centred, and then just ate away the sides of the holes just enough to get the screws out. Be sure not to fold the gauge faces too.

The rings are a piece of piss - you'll already have the front off whle doing the ribbon, so it takes about a minutes to squeeze them through the holes, and clip them in.

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I did mine, but that's kinda the stuff I do (Medical Equipment). It really not hard, if you have a good guide, some patience and a low speed, very light/small drill. DON'T try to use a 18V Makita or similar! I used a small electric die grinder and awesomly sharp drills, I made a small hole, checked to see I was centred, and then just ate away the sides of the holes just enough to get the screws out. Be sure not to fold the gauge faces too.

The rings are a piece of piss - you'll already have the front off whle doing the ribbon, so it takes about a minutes to squeeze them through the holes, and clip them in.

Perhaps I should take a drive up to Whangarei and get you to do it, Allan! Do you accept beers as payment? :lol:

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Perhaps I should take a drive up to Whangarei and get you to do it, Allan! Do you accept beers as payment? :lol:

I love the drive up north :)

Beers seem a perfectly acceptable payment method in NZ.

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Perhaps I should take a drive up to Whangarei and get you to do it, Allan! Do you accept beers as payment? :lol:

I'm sure something could be arranged ;)

I'd have to talk nicely to the Mrs though - it would have to be on a weekend!

And I'm always worried about screwing up someone ELSES car!

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Beers seem a perfectly acceptable payment method in NZ.

Often... people pay more in beer than they do in cash :wacko: I fixed a fax machine for someone, that would normally have been a $40 fix at a shop... He gave me 4x 24 boxes of beer :lol: He insisted I take the lot!

I can't have too much beer anyway..... I already have 2 beer bellies.

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Often... people pay more in beer than they do in cash :wacko: I fixed a fax machine for someone, that would normally have been a $40 fix at a shop... He gave me 4x 24 boxes of beer :lol: He insisted I take the lot!

I can't have too much beer anyway..... I already have 2 beer bellies.

Apparently sake's the go then... Lose weight and get p*ssed. Gonna study up on the pixel fix and make a decision about my competence after that. If I decide it's a bridge too far I might drop you a line!

Did a quick test wet sand on the trim pieces last night and Tony's absolutely right. Not much paint to play with from the cans. Not convinced I'll be able to get the quality of finish I'm hoping for without a lacquer so may have to go for a glossier look than I'd intended unless I can find a decent matte lacquer somewhere.

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also just a quick lesson i learnt the hard way on an e32.

dont start the car or even put the key in when the dash is disconnected, it will set off the airbag and abs lights and you will have to get the codes reset.

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also just a quick lesson i learnt the hard way on an e32.

dont start the car or even put the key in when the dash is disconnected, it will set off the airbag and abs lights and you will have to get the codes reset.

Battery will be disconnected when/if I do it to ensure nothing like that goes amiss!

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Apparently sake's the go then... Lose weight and get p*ssed. Gonna study up on the pixel fix and make a decision about my competence after that. If I decide it's a bridge too far I might drop you a line!

Did a quick test wet sand on the trim pieces last night and Tony's absolutely right. Not much paint to play with from the cans. Not convinced I'll be able to get the quality of finish I'm hoping for without a lacquer so may have to go for a glossier look than I'd intended unless I can find a decent matte lacquer somewhere.

Haha Sweet! If you start it at a good time in a morning, you don't have to rush. Let me know if you want to come up though. I think I spent 3 hours doing it, including "help" from my boy.

I'd recomment some nail polish remover to help soften the residue from the old cable, and a fibreglass pencil from RS or similar - it helps to clean up the surfaces, but BE GENTLE!

Another option for the trim is to "brush" the trim.

I painted my Honda wood trim Black, then left it to harden for a week or so (it does take a while). Then got a bristle hearth brush and did long even strokes along the length (snigger) to give it a dulled finish, but with light horizontal lines. Looked not too bad, and you can do as much or as little as you like to suit!

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Finished the trim... Pleased with the finish. It looks good in the car but too dark to photograph adequately. Here's a teaser. The colour's pretty faithful in this pic:

post-16586-1370602103.jpg

All the trim went back in smoothly except this piece which is a bit of a fiddle and annoyingly, I chipped it very slightly so going to have to try and touch up as it'll be too much of PITA to take it out and completely repaint and sand.

Will take better pics and post DIY over the weekend.

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