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Michael.

M62B44TU Potential...

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Howdy chaps.

So the M62B44TU out of the box reportedly has ~218 kW (292 hp) @ 5400rpm and 440 N·m (325 lb·ft) @ 3600rpm as new.

No doubt they would be a bit less depending on how healthy the engine is 10-15 years on.

During my road trip over the weekend I got thinking about what potential they have.

Lets take a healthy engine, serviced where applicable, fitted with higher flowing 4-2-1 long headers and a free flow exhaust, some minor intake alterations to improve the cold air feed, and the DME retuned at the appropriate place like Gavin's Hivelocity put down at the wheels through a Getrag 420G.

What could be a reasonable power / torque output with such changes?

From what I've seen on the net 180-200rwkw would be fairly obtainable..

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An m5 puts down about 245 kwatw. With what ive seen on a couple of dyno runs. That would be the equivelent of an extra 500cc perfect exhaust. More compression. Vanos on all cams. And individual throttle bodies. Plus agressive ecu

I would say 180-200 is possible but only through a manual box.

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There is a formula for these which works to get M5 like performance from them. You have to open it up however to do so but its not too wild.

You would gain around 20hp with a healthy motor with the obligitory exhuast, air + tune.

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Dunno Michael but, reckon you should find out.

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Mine did 161.5 kw atw, totally standard. I wouldn't think 180 would be too much trouble, but there are a few issues - room for decent headers, plastic inlet manifold etc. You would probably get most of the way there with a decent re-tune, superchips say 10% from a re-flash. Let me know how it goes! ;)

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Reckon there should some potential in the pre TU engine. Ye old CCC method.

Bit of a cam regrind and some carefull timing, a little head work, maybe a bump in compression and something approaching a half reasonable header should get near 350fly hp with a tune.

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Tuned M62B44 non vanos with M60 heads\intake manifold and possibly some headers.

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Reckon there should some potential in the pre TU engine. Ye old CCC method.

Bit of a cam regrind and some carefull timing, a little head work, maybe a bump in compression and something approaching a half reasonable header should get near 350fly hp with a tune.

That's another debate in my mind, do you go non vanos or vanos...

I think I'd prefer less complication with non vanos, and maintain cable throttle etc. At least tweaking the cams would be an easier affair.

But that said, the vanos system does work well in multi rev point situations so it would improve the lower rpm drive-ability.

I'm just playing with ideas for another E36 conversion, keeping it all OEM, no evil Japanese collaboration next time! That way I could get away with having a Alpina B8 replica theme.

That said it's an idea and I wont be spending any cash on such an affair for sometime yet.

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i think Brents 544i Touring has had a bit of a ticke up and been on the dyno???

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my old red 544i e34 5spd , light flywheel med diff made 190rwkw with 490Nm of torque :)

, lost about 6kw when swapped to the larger diff and axles etc.

pretty free flowing exhaust (just a e32 750i centre muffler with a bean can rear box)

std headers

was a m62b44 from a 96 e39 540i had 180k's on it ran fine

was setup on the e34 loom and motronic ecu then remapped even before we mapped it i think it was about 182rwkw

std in e39 they are about 170rwkw

post-279-0-24540600-1397531353.jpg

post-279-0-01539300-1397531398_thumb.jpg

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talk to mosens , there e46 GTR replica race car has one in it , they did cams and other stuff and is making real decent HP .

oh and above the 1st pic shows first remap std run and after remapped with medium diff

next pic shows after a large case diff was fitted

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That's another debate in my mind, do you go non vanos or vanos...

I think I'd prefer less complication with non vanos, and maintain cable throttle etc. At least tweaking the cams would be an easier affair.

But that said, the vanos system does work well in multi rev point situations so it would improve the lower rpm drive-ability.

I'm just playing with ideas for another E36 conversion, keeping it all OEM, no evil Japanese collaboration next time! That way I could get away with having a Alpina B8 replica theme.

That said it's an idea and I wont be spending any cash on such an affair for sometime yet.

The Vanos is nothing much to right home about, certainly not the same level as the S62 type.

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Exactly, its only on the intake. Ive seen a couple of dyno's showing the vanos M62 pulls better to about 3500rpm after that the non vanos M62 surpasses it and makes more power.

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That's not to say it's not worth having in a 2 ton touring. Just that it's not a nice fancy bit of kit.

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The Vanos is nothing much to right home about, certainly not the same level as the S62 type.

Hmm it does make things a lot smoother.. jumping between m62 and m62tu is quite interesting ..

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M3 GTR V8 did between 370 and 390kW , there is a good target to aim for.

Ha, lets not get too carried away now. :)

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Just had a look around, the M60B40 apparently has the same larger intake manifold as the M62B44 non vanos, however the 62 is lacking the velocity stacks inside.

Apparently these are worth having as a stock intake upgrade.

post-6193-0-88006000-1397570689.jpg

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I just spoke with Alpina USA...

They can sell the original B8 - E36 engine mounts for $930 USD each, so $1860 USD + shipping....

At that price the custom mount process seems much more economical, though the oil system bypassing through the mount will have to be addressed somehow.

On the flip side, having perfect Alpina derived alloy mounts with OEM rubber mounts #22111095444 is extremely satisfying and would make the rest of the development like the headers, brake unit relocation, chassis tweaks, oil sump and gearbox positioning more straight forward.

My 1UZ-E36 engine mounts cost in the vicinity of $500 to fabricate and finish off with bushes, would be more if I had to pay welder regular retail for such work.

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Thoughts on relocation of oil pump and sump work?

This to me is the best idea so far although execution could do with some work.

http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8383&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=fdaaf47c696880e94a332255361535e0

I think I'd need to investigate first hand, but I'd try keep such parts un touched to reduce complication. The oil pump arrangement is my least preferred aspect of the engine arrangement, but there is space for it to work, unused in my 1UZ swap.

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