The 130i Thread

[Driftit 2078]

So what shock and spring combo would you get for your E87 daily commuter that spends 90% of it's time on the open road.

The current M-sport stock stuff has done its time and is now getting worse by the day.

I was looking at around the $1000USD mark for a kit from Bilstein or Koni/H&R.
 

Something like this

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-koni-parts/cup-kit-eibach-springs-with-koni-sport-shocks-128i-135i-coupe/1145-space-1018~kon/

Or like this.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-h-and-r-parts/touring-cup-kit/31054t-6/

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Bilstein B4s are popular as a standard replacement. B12s for an upgrade. 

[M3AN 4016]

4 hours ago, Driftit said:

So what shock and spring combo would you get for your E87 daily commuter that spends 90% of it's time on the open road.

The current M-sport stock stuff has done its time and is now getting worse by the day.

I was looking at around the $1000USD mark for a kit from Bilstein or Koni/H&R.

Unless it's done extraordinary miles the springs are probably still fine, you could potentially save hundreds there.

This thread is exhaustive: https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80208

But you can probably get away with reading just the first and last few pages. Stock springs + B4 dampers + BMWP bumpstops should be a sight cheaper than a full B12 or Koni kit.

Edited February 7, 2022 by M3AN

[Driftit 2078]

Ah yeah I was just looking at the B12 kits.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-parts/b12-pro-kit/46-180537~bil/

Not too badly priced.

The car has only done around 135k Kms so could skip the springs.  Put the savings towards new control arms.

Off to read that thread.

[M3AN 4016]

This one (auto) is sensibly priced for the miles and condition at $6950 ono... if you had the cash on hand you could probably walk away with it between $6500 and $6700.

 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3463560428

The way prices are going (up) you could probably enjoy it for a year and sell it for the same or more.

[duluth 41]

I believe that one was listed not too long ago for around $7500. Seen it parked here and there, looks decent.

[Angelo 24]

Hey guys! Abit of a newbie and looking to purchase my first bimmer and found this perfect listing (for me atleast) although i only have a budget of around 7.5k would you think this seller can decrease the price down? also as you can see closely they have included invoices and can be seen how much they ahve spent on repairs/fix biggest cost i've seen around $2k and i believe they factored it in the price hence sitting close to $9 grand.

i guess my main question here is, if bring this car over to BM Workshop (AKL) to do Pre-Purchase inspection check, i'd rather pay them  for any extra maintenance or any soon repairs that needs to be sorted. soo if there are any repairs to be done to the car hopefully soon, it will work out under/around $9k including repairs/replacements only if i can get this car below $8k

I heard from my mate "expect the oil pan gasket to possibly be starting to leak" may cost alot to as it is labour extensive and may cost around $800-$1800 nzd .. I could factor that in the price if the seller is willing to sell it beyond their marketed price.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3437441195

Apologies for my long yarn, just a keen enthusiast looking to get their first bimmer.

btw side note, also was looking into this car and seems like a good price if i can offer him around 6.5k but just worried about its age (167km) as if i wanting to keep it for another 2-3 years.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3463560428

Thank you in advance!

[M3AN 4016]

Hi and welcome @Angelo, I think a 130i is a good place to start a BMW journey, even if you never go further.

I think you'll struggle to get the 9k one down to 8.5k, let alone 7.5k, just based on the description alone (and that the seller says price is "firm"). The prices for these things remains quite stubborn but I wouldn't pay 9k for an auto pre-LCI (pre-facelift) version.

On the other hand I quite like the second one at that price and reckon you might get that for 6.5k which would leave a grand in your back pocket for maintenance. Or you might be able to put that grand into a 1-2 year mechanical warranty (check first) to ease your concerns.

Every BMW leaks oil eventually, you just need to factor that in but it's not a particular 130i thing, in fact the N52 is incredibly mechanically reliable compared to some of the alternatives. A PPI is a good idea if you're not mechanically inclined and BM Workshop are unlikely to steer you wrong. Just don't be too concerned if they say it's leaking oil, as long as it's not dramatic you should be able to live with it for a while. It's important that they also plug it in, retrieve any fault codes and provide you with a print out, you can potentially use that to negotiate price further.

The belly pan or sump will almost certainly leak at some point and it's a labour intensive job but I'm sure it's closer to a $1k job than it is a $2k job... although I stand to be corrected on that. 

These days maintenance is more important than mileage, as long as they've kept up with maintenance then you needn't worry too much about miles. In fact a 114k car probably has more stuff soon to need replacing than a 167k car, typically once a car has gone beyond about 120k then arms, bushes, brakes, suspension etc, etc have already been replaced and could last another 120k.

Test drive a few, including on the open road, before you pull the trigger, in my experience some feel fantastic to drive, others awful and that's normally an indicator of the health of the suspension.

 

Edited February 9, 2022 by M3AN
sp

[Matt 123]

Hi @Angelo! There are several common oil leak locations, main ones being sump (as you said), oil filter housing, and valve cover gasket. They're all easy enough to do but a tad labour intensive, particularly the valve cover gasket, which can require the whole valve cover to be replaced if it's the later plastic one and it has gone brittle. Other common failure points as they get older are water pump and starter motor, plus coil packs can start to fail but they're cheap and easy to replace. Ideally you can find one that has some history of at least some of these items being addressed. Otherwise, they don't all happen at once but just be prepared. Plus as Dave said, there's lots of general wear and tear items that need replacing as they age, just like any car.

For reference on the sump gasket, I had mine replace at East Auckland BMW (main dealer) and they charged something like $750-800ish (I can't remember exactly). From my experience with BM Workshop, I wouldn't necessarily expect them to be cheaper...

[Angelo 24]

Hey guys! 

Really appreciate your feedback and experience on the cars listed @M3AN @Matt

Am taking into account on what you've guys said and also had a yarn and test drive last night of the 2nd car i posted which was 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3463560428

It runs perfectly well on its age, did a test drive on the motorway and around the neighbourhood. Checked under the bonnet, since I am still new with getting a bimmer I might consider getting a PPI check with the folks over at BM Workshop or if you guys can recommend a workshop that's good with 130i and its n52 engines. And for peace of mind may check with Mechanical Warranty with AA as they are partnered with BM workshop.

If you guys have more feedback, don't hesitate to comment below! would love to hear your thoughts and opinions on my first euro/bimmer car

 

[M3AN 4016]

All good @Angelo - the only price to pay for our advice is to share your journey with us if you do proceed to purchase. You'll probably need more advice after you purchase than before! (In a good way).

I'd have no problems recommending BM Workshop, they know their stuff and even better if they can facilitate a warranty for you. If they're local to you and you have a good experience then building a long term relationship with them will pay you back many times over.

The "aero" rear spoiler on that one is a bit of a bonus, most don't come with them and they vastly improve the look of the rear end. (Makes note to self to get off arse and get mine sorted.)

[Jacko 2154]

I wouldnt touch BM workshop personally, had too many issues. Basic sh*t being butchered a few times there. 

Id totally recommend http://www.pandsauto.co.nz/ - P&S autos know 130s well now, they apparently look after me and Matts cars and I have zippo complaints. (also one of the few places Id go for an alignment... they know their sh*t). 

I also wouldnt bother with mechanical warranty on a 130, there isn't much that's particularly expensive to go wrong, provide you dont start with a lemon that has something like chewed out ledge seals. 

 

Edited February 10, 2022 by Jacko

[Angelo 24]

hey guys!

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what type of fuel do you guys use for your 130i? 91,95,98? 

Im bout to get my first euro/bmw car next week and the owner has been using 95 on it. but some listings i've seen on trademe they have been either using mainly 98 or even some 91

Just wanted to get your opinions on this? Should I continue using 95?

[Jacko 2154]

95/96 when thats all thats around and stuck in the wopwops, 98 otherwise... mines at 290,000km now (170,000 of them me)

I forced DME adaptations on 98, it definitely runs better on it than 96 now (I seem to get cat check errors regularly if fed it 96, if reset DME adaptation on 96 that might go away.. but meh)

 

Walk away from one thats been fed 91, owners a tool

Edited February 11, 2022 by Jacko

[Angelo 24]

@Jacko cheers bro, appreciate you. btw i have booked myself a PPI at pandsauto this thursday!  told the fellas you mentioned me to them and was stoked to have me onboard

 

[Contrails 317]

On 2/10/2022 at 5:59 PM, Jacko said:

I wouldnt touch BM workshop personally, had too many issues. Basic sh*t being butchered a few times there. 

I have had a similar issues with BM workshop.  I have had the E28 come back from service with missing bolts, only to find them somewhere else in the engine bay.  Never went there again.  My sister took her F20 328i there for a service - got quoted $950 to replace the rear pads and rotors.  She decided to take it to AA down the road instead - got charged $600 for the same job. Best part is AA got the parts from BM workshop.

[M3AN 4016]

Interesting to hear such feedback from two trusted members here, I'll certainly defer to their more recent experience than mine and reconsider my recommendation. Which is a pity really, it's good to have trustworthy shops and BM Workshop in my previous experience were good to me. Perhaps the got too big for their boots?

 

[Angelo 24]

Anyone here can advise me a good workshop to get muffler/exhaust get sorted? and also some new tyre/rim/wheels (was looking at autostance as I used them before) but happy to know your recommendations.

Just wanting the car sound alot more cooler/meaner and tyres to replace the front two run flats and a better rims (dont know what specs i should look out for lol, still kinda new) 

[*Glenn* 854]

For the exhaust I’d recommend Dean owner of Mr Muffler in Cascade Road Auckland He does brilliant work. Did my Kona a few weeks ago

[Jacko 2154]

6 hours ago, Angelo said:

Anyone here can advise me a good workshop to get muffler/exhaust get sorted? and also some new tyre/rim/wheels (was looking at autostance as I used them before) but happy to know your recommendations.

Just wanting the car sound alot more cooler/meaner and tyres to replace the front two run flats and a better rims (dont know what specs i should look out for lol, still kinda new) 

The best option will be to start with a 135i backbox, from an N55 is the one to go for if you can find it, the turbo engines have less muffled backboxes due to the turbos muting them, hangers will require remounted to suit the hatch mounting points but is otherwise reversable back to stock. If thats not loud enough get the resonator replaced with a Y pipe. Wheels will depend on what you want, finding a decent wheel in the right specs isnt that easy  so that will dictate where you buy from more than anything. I have ACS Type IVs (ACS1 kit) for sale at the moment. 

Edited February 13, 2022 by Jacko

[Angelo 24]

16 hours ago, Jacko said:

The best option will be to start with a 135i backbox, from an N55 is the one to go for if you can find it, the turbo engines have less muffled backboxes due to the turbos muting them, hangers will require remounted to suit the hatch mounting points but is otherwise reversable back to stock. If thats not loud enough get the resonator replaced with a Y pipe. Wheels will depend on what you want, finding a decent wheel in the right specs isnt that easy  so that will dictate where you buy from more than anything. I have ACS Type IVs (ACS1 kit) for sale at the moment. 

Hi @Jacko  Thanks for your input! apologies as i've only heard this mod just now as i'm still new into this. Anyways, is this the goto/best mod that every 130i owners should do, getting a 135i backbox? or would they normally just go to an exhaust shop and get roughly the same result?

And how do I find a 135i backbox coming from an N55, would it state in a description box that it says its from an N55? or should its actually from an 135i lol, and i guess i would be looking at trademe(locally) for it? or should I be ordering one online overseas?

apologies for the questions still trying to get my head through it

*

just searched something locally, reckon this would do it? 

https://www.speedscience.co.nz/products/agency-power-08-13-bmw-135i-rear-axle-back-exhaust-system-w-titanium-tips

I believe i found the right one on FB market place;

facebook .com/marketplace/item/1517995771926889/

Reckon its the right one? @Jacko

Edited February 13, 2022 by Angelo
added more info

[GorGasm 563]

Going to an exhaust shop is a tricky business.  I would hazard a guess and say few if any, actually know how to make a good sounding exhaust and some may just stumble upon greatness.

That one you linked doesn't seem like a horrible deal, but if you could find a cheap factory option that would be ideal.

FYI the factory 130i exhaust isn't quiet though.

[E30 325i Rag-Top 2956]

I got caught in the middle of the 130i Grand Prix through Panmure at 7 o’clock last night. If you were driving the black one* let me know I’ve got some tips for you..
* I know it wasn’t you @Jacko it wasn’t sitting good as yours

[Jacko 2154]

19 hours ago, Angelo said:

 

And how do I find a 135i backbox coming from an N55, would it state in a description box that it says its from an N55? or should its actually from an 135i lol, and i guess i would be looking at trademe(locally) for it? or should I be ordering one online overseas?

Wreckers - Hit up HellBM etc. 

The 135i backbox fits in the factory location, unlike most exhaust shops will try stick a 5" stainless cannon on the back, which look like sh*t. 

Very well documented mod to 130s.... The best mod to them is a proper LSD though.

[M3AN 4016]

I'm not convinced...

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3480943431