antil33t 90 Report post Posted December 28, 2013 Yeah, it's a sweet as function. E34 goes Beep Beep Beep at a minute before the hour, also flashes the time up on the screen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swanman 0 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 My e39 530 2001, 106kms went into to get its dashboard pixelation issue fixed recently, The odometer could not be read so failed the WOF. This was done fine no issue. However now the car will not develop power over 2krpm and what power there is is very lumpy. I have had this car for 2 years and it has been ultra reliable. I have had the mechanic take the car back and they think it may be the coils. My questions are. Could there be a link between the work that took place on the dash and the current issue? The dash had to be opened and a part taken away to to be fixed. Do the symptoms as descriped fit with a coil issue? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted December 30, 2013 The dash repair won't have any effect on the engine, unless they've done some REALLY silly, and unrelated. Before jumping in and replacing coils, scan for codes. If your mechanic doesn't have the gear, you need a different mechanic - guesswork is a waste of money on these things. Even after reading the codes, someone who knows how to interpret them, and diagnose the issues needs to have a crack at it. I'd be suprised if you had multiple coil failures all at once, and one or two coils would still let the engine rev, it'd just be lacking power and be very rough feeling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted January 1, 2014 The rear power windows in my '87 325i Sedan don't work when using the switches in the back but work fine when using the switches in the front around the gear stick.... Could it just be as simple as the rear switches being bad? If it's not too hard of a fix I'd fix it otherwise i might just leave it... Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 601 Report post Posted January 2, 2014 The rear power windows in my '87 325i Sedan don't work when using the switches in the back but work fine when using the switches in the front around the gear stick.... Could it just be as simple as the rear switches being bad? If it's not too hard of a fix I'd fix it otherwise i might just leave it... Thanks Have you checked to make sure you haven't turned them off? That's what the small square button is for to stop the kiddies in the back fiddling with them Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 2, 2014 Anyone know the part number for an m60 cam chain tensioner? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1258 Report post Posted January 2, 2014 Anyone know the part number for an m60 cam chain tensioner? http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E38/Europe/740i-M60/R-A/apr1995/browse 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted January 2, 2014 Have you checked to make sure you haven't turned them off? That's what the small square button is for to stop the kiddies in the back fiddling with them I always wondered what that switch was for! Problem solved, thanks so much. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 2, 2014 http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E38/Europe/740i-M60/R-A/apr1995/browse Cheers. Was on that site the other day but couldn't remember how I got there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vtgts300kw 90 Report post Posted January 5, 2014 The temperature gauge in my 88 325 has started to read lower than it has in the past. It would always hang just shy of the line at 12 oclock ( 2nd line ). It now hangs just past the 1st line. Heats up as usual, but just doesn't move past that point. It doesn't fluctuate when idling or cruising. Fuel mileage is the same ( crap ), although I haven't accurately measured ( don't want to know ), just rough KM's per fill up. Thermostat? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 395 Report post Posted January 5, 2014 Thermostat could be stuck open Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vtgts300kw 90 Report post Posted January 6, 2014 Thermostat could be stuck open Figured this would be the only explanation. Any ideas what thermostat I need? I understand there are a few options? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 Check your VIN on realoem.com and find the thermostat part number. You can then ask Google for options! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///MPROVD 131 Report post Posted January 10, 2014 Will e36 m3 sachs dual mass (stock) fit a getrag 220 box or will it be to big Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1258 Report post Posted January 10, 2014 Will e36 m3 sachs dual mass (stock) fit a getrag 220 box or will it be to big will fit , about the same height as a e36 328i one etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 11, 2014 got a spacer for the flywheel in my manual kit but it won't fit on the end of the drive shaft so I have used the auto spacer when I pulled off the starter wheel there was one. It fits on but is thicker. The shaft at the end seems to be tapered and gets smaller so the one I go with the kit can fit on. Will it be okay to use the auto one which is thicker? Also is there anything I can use for a clutch alignment tool? I don't have one. Cheers guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///MPROVD 131 Report post Posted January 11, 2014 Has anybody fitted an m3 clutch to an 220 box I have both zf and getrag slave and i know that a zf slave has not only a longer throw but also a longer shaft im very keen to find out that it definitely fits befor a go buying one. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 395 Report post Posted January 11, 2014 got a spacer for the flywheel in my manual kit but it won't fit on the end of the drive shaft so I have used the auto spacer when I pulled off the starter wheel there was one. It fits on but is thicker. The shaft at the end seems to be tapered and gets smaller so the one I go with the kit can fit on. Will it be okay to use the auto one which is thicker? Also is there anything I can use for a clutch alignment tool? I don't have one. Cheers guys It's not a spacer it is used on the bolts side of the flywheel. So you put the flywheel on, Spacer ring then torque the bolts up. I'd get a proper alignment tool too, especially if doing it under the car. It makes getting the gearbox back on so much easier. Supercheap has universal ones, clamps the disc to the pressure plate I normally line it up by eye looking at the clutch centering it on the face of the pressure plate and clamp it then install it to the flywheel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 11, 2014 It's not a spacer it is used on the bolts side of the flywheel. So you put the flywheel on, Spacer ring then torque the bolts up. I'd get a proper alignment tool too, especially if doing it under the car. It makes getting the gearbox back on so much easier. Supercheap has universal ones, clamps the disc to the pressure plate I normally line it up by eye looking at the clutch centering it on the face of the pressure plate and clamp it then install it to the flywheel. That's interesting because I have been doing some research on this and the consensus appears to be that everyone thinks it goes behind the flywheel. Not on the bolt head side. But that would make more sense on what you're saying. Apparently it takes out some force on the clutch and gear box components when changing gears etc. Thank for the info on the alignment tool, I didn't know super cheap would have one for an e30. I don't have a torque wrench either but do you know how many nm those flywheel bolts have to be? Cheers!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 395 Report post Posted January 11, 2014 Not specifically e30, but it is universal and you adjust it to clamp the clutch disc and pressure plate. It's quite Sh*t that's why I line it up by eye then use it to clamp it that way so I can attach it to flywheel. Flywheel bolts 77ft-lbs, And loctite them too. The ring is supposed to even out the force of the bolts against the flywheel. Theres alot of theories anyway - Real OEM confirms it is on the bolt side (#10 shim) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 11, 2014 Not specifically e30, but it is universal and you adjust it to clamp the clutch disc and pressure plate. It's quite Sh*t that's why I line it up by eye then use it to clamp it that way so I can attach it to flywheel. Flywheel bolts 77ft-lbs, And loctite them too. The ring is supposed to even out the force of the bolts against the flywheel. Theres alot of theories anyway - Real OEM confirms it is on the bolt side (#10 shim) Thanks, almost got this conversion done. What does one do about the covering cap and felt ring for the pilot bearing? Improvise? :banghead: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 12, 2014 Can anyone recommend somewhere to do a quick resurfacing on the mounting face of my rocker covers? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///MPROVD 131 Report post Posted January 12, 2014 Think the evo ones I had have white on them. but I dont think anybody knows what the colours mean. Would be good to find out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vtgts300kw 90 Report post Posted January 13, 2014 Thermostat could be stuck open Figured this would be the only explanation. Any ideas what thermostat I need? I understand there are a few options? Installed the new thermostat, bled system etc and nothing changed. Temperature sensor faulty? Going to take it to an auto electrician tomorrow and get them to quickly test it for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 i would say it makes more of a difference in traffic day to day where engine bay temps go up so more use in central aucks. could you lose the front and leave half of the ducting? would defeat the ram air effect but would still give it somewhere to suck cooler air from. e34s have them and everyone i have seen is missing or broken and havent heard of them dying 5 and 7 series v8s have water cooled alternators but i fail to see how pumping 110'c water through it helps keep temps down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
