Allanw 1071 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 Empty the leaves out of the alternator one too - they're often entirely blocked (possibly leading to failures?) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 Thanks Jason. As it turns out there's another way that leaves the alternator feed in place, I'm half way through that mod now and will post a follow up in my project blog thread. Will be watching out for that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 Think the evo ones I had have white on them. but I dont think anybody knows what the colours mean. Would be good to find out. I've got red on my fronts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UBH8N 0 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 So i may have scraped a hole in my sump.... I was just wondering if any m20 e30 sump will bolt straight up, my friend has a cooked m20 out and offered me the sump if it will fit. I Have a m20b25 and the maybe replacment is from a m20b20 Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 Sound like its cross threaded Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted January 24, 2014 So i may have scraped a hole in my sump.... I was just wondering if any m20 e30 sump will bolt straight up, my friend has a cooked m20 out and offered me the sump if it will fit. I Have a m20b25 and the maybe replacment is from a m20b20 Thanks I think the M20 blocks are the same. The differences lie in the crank, rods, pistons (and bore), and head. M20B20 & M20B23 have 80mm bore M20B25 & M20B27 have 84mm bore The location of the water passages on M20B20 and M20B23 blocks prohibit the use of a bigger bore as in M20B25 and M20B27. This does suggest there are differences, but I don't think they extend to the sump. The B20 and B23 head is the same, and will fit on a B27 block. It's got to be worth a go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted January 24, 2014 Yea it'll fit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted January 24, 2014 Sure sounds like it but I'm not willing to even imagine that scenario! I've had a close look at the threads and they look and feel (finger) fine. I just went to the machine shop and got 12mm lopped off the end of my socket to give me more clearance. I'm praying that will be all I need to do. a friend has a sign on his wall that says " threaded or cross threaded. tight is tight" probably wouldnt apply that to an m motor though. can the bolt thread in with the tensioner removed? will tell you if its the threads or the unit binding it up Sent from my GT-I8160L using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 Cant seem to get the hose of my PCV off. trying to disconnect from near the brake booster but cant pull it off. The clamp is loose and the hose spins freely but it just wont pop off. Any suggestions before I get a knife? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 Sorry, its actualy the brake booster hose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UBH8N 0 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 I think the M20 blocks are the same. The differences lie in the crank, rods, pistons (and bore), and head. M20B20 & M20B23 have 80mm bore M20B25 & M20B27 have 84mm bore The location of the water passages on M20B20 and M20B23 blocks prohibit the use of a bigger bore as in M20B25 and M20B27. This does suggest there are differences, but I don't think they extend to the sump. The B20 and B23 head is the same, and will fit on a B27 block. It's got to be worth a go. Thanks for the info. Done the job last weekend, bolted straight on with no problems. They look exactly the same. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 a friend has a sign on his wall that says " threaded or cross threaded. tight is tight" I need said sign for my shed lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 had to cut.mine off. was formed into the shape of the barbs. was very hard to cut as it has strong fibre layer. i replaced mine with a piece of fuel hose and still going strong Sent from my GT-I8160L using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 Yeah that's what I ended up doing. Guess fuel hose isn't that expensive given what I've already spent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 27, 2014 Half way through doing a cooling system overhaul and just wondering what the best way to clean it out when its back together would be. Is there a cleaner I can mix with water for the first top up before I dump it out and put the proper coolant in? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted January 27, 2014 Been told simply green is good for a flush Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 27, 2014 Been told simply green is good for a flush The degreaser? Would i run the engine to temp with the heater on hot? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 My throttle cable has had-it on my e30 m20. Would it be best to get a brand new on from ebay? I might find one at the wreckers but will that be iffy? I was also wondering if its possible to just get new cable and mock something up some how? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 It may take a few days, but a new one from the US will probably be about NZ$60 delivered. Check with a BMW dealer or one of the forum sponsors - I've no idea what price they will ask, but it's only a phone call and may be quicker (if that's important). And the price may surprise you... A used but good cable may be cheaper, but you'd be wise to clean and lube it before fitting. And there's no guarantees it'll last. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 The degreaser? Would i run the engine to temp with the heater on hot? I would say so but not sure, never done it myself. Can just use the flush stuff from repco and the likes tho. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 I think these are from the other side, but certainly there appears to be 3 fixing holes... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 30, 2014 It may take a few days, but a new one from the US will probably be about NZ$60 delivered. Check with a BMW dealer or one of the forum sponsors - I've no idea what price they will ask, but it's only a phone call and may be quicker (if that's important). And the price may surprise you... A used but good cable may be cheaper, but you'd be wise to clean and lube it before fitting. And there's no guarantees it'll last. Appreciate the help, I'll look into this. There is really much choice with these things as bmw seem to have made them pretty intricately. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted January 30, 2014 Appreciate the help, I'll look into this. There is really much choice with these things as bmw seem to have made them pretty intricately. http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e30/1635-new?product=35411154285 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted February 2, 2014 I need a new sunroof seal for a manual sunroof in a 1987 e30 325i. There seem to be 2 options of what to get and im not too sure which one to go with even after looking through google... 1) get a one piece seal or 2) get the two piece, front and rear. Thanks for any help from anyone! :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 I need a new sunroof seal for a manual sunroof in a 1987 e30 325i. There seem to be 2 options of what to get and im not too sure which one to go with even after looking through google... 1) get a one piece seal or 2) get the two piece, front and rear. Thanks for any help from anyone! :-) Could it be you need both, the single piece gasket against the roof, and the two piece against the sunroof? They are described respectively as the 'top', 'front' and 'rear' gaskets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
