Quick Questions

[KwS 2425]

in regards to the shifter, did you replace all the bushings on the linkages themselves when you did the mounts? if not, thatll be where the movement is. plenty of DIY guides out there for doing it.

[handgrenade 189]

if you went back to factory standard bushings and OEM parts, then they are quite sloppy still.

suggest you use aftermarket gear linkage and shift

[Matth5 471]

It's not the slop that's the problem (I have that too of course), but it feels like the shift points move sideways. If I rest my hand on the shifter I can feel it moving around a bit when driving. Not just vibrating but it can actually move so that the gears are not in the right spot.

New tranny mounts reduced to a minimal amount it but it's still there. Like it wont move so that 5th actually rests where 3rd is, but in extreme cases it can move close enough so that the spot where 3rd should be, becomes the spot between 5th and 3rd almost.

Although, I've been looking at the UUC kit including double sheer shift rod. Looks awesome but it's a lot of money. In my wishlist but heaps of things to fix before I go looking at things to improve.

And yea, looks like I better make plans for a new waterpump then. Putting that at the top of my maintenance list.

Edited August 23, 2014 by Matth5

[KwS 2425]

no such thing as shift points moving. Itll be the play in the shifter bushes. New OEM bushes are cheap and will do the trick.

[handgrenade 189]

no such thing as shift points moving. Itll be the play in the shifter bushes. New OEM bushes are cheap and will do the trick.

I was.advised by bm world that OEM replacements would be as loose. And to get something aftermarket

[handgrenade 189]

It's not the slop that's the problem (I have that too of course), but it feels like the shift points move sideways. If I rest my hand on the shifter I can feel it moving around a bit when driving. Not just vibrating but it can actually move so that the gears are not in the right spot. 

New tranny mounts reduced to a minimal amount it but it's still there. Like it wont move so that 5th actually rests where 3rd is, but in extreme cases it can move close enough so that the spot where 3rd should be, becomes the spot between 5th and 3rd almost. 

 

Although, I've been looking at the UUC kit including double sheer shift rod. Looks awesome but it's a lot of money. In my wishlist but heaps of things to fix before I go looking at things to improve.

 

And yea, looks like I better make plans for a new waterpump then. Putting that at the top of my maintenance list. 

Pm me if your want a DSSR linkage from UUC or a short shift kit as well. Can do good prices.

[Matth5 471]

no such thing as shift points moving. Itll be the play in the shifter bushes. New OEM bushes are cheap and will do the trick.

Really? To me it feels like the whole transmission is moving. Before I had my mounts replaced it was so bad that sometimes even 1st gear would be centered, where 3rd normally is.

What places would be able to replace shift bushes and about how much can I expect to spend?

I've seen DIY guides but I'm not too confident in dropping the exhaust, driveshaft ect and working under there myself.

[KwS 2425]

I was.advised by bm world that OEM replacements would be as loose. And to get something aftermarket

When my old e36 was converted to manual it had no bushes put in the linkages at all, was like changing gear in a pot of soup. Replaced all the bushes with OEM bushes, and it was as tight as new.

[FIAT 131R 223]

Hmm true, wasn't aware it needed some bedding in. I replaced a whole bunch though, Coolant temp sensor, Intake air temp sensor, Cam position sensor, VANOS seals, Oil / Coolant change and cleaned out the ICV.

It's idling better but seems quite sluggish. Knowing me I probably missed something somewhere.. Usu

In the Beisan notes it usually tells you that it takes 200 -300 miles to bed the new seals in.

[Matth5 471]

Had engine mounts replaced at the same time. My mechanic advised it would be a bad idea to only do the tranny mounts at the time. Hmm maybe it is stuffed bushes causing the linkage to shift sideways or messing with my feel somehow.

I'll have someone looks at it when I get the water pump done.

[e30ftw 410]

In the Beisan notes it usually tells you that it takes 200 -300 miles to bed the new seals in.

Actually never followed that guide, followed another more simpler method. You are right though, it took a few hundred KMs and it was better than ever. But I ended up ripping it all apart again anyway to change cams.

Btw, Is your PM box full?

[Allanw 1071]

Does the lever seem floppier sometimes?

The detent springs that push the lever back from 5th, or from reverse can stick in their housings, stopping the lever from moving back properly (resting position should be between 3rd/4th). It's usually worse when cold.

[Matth5 471]

Not that I noticed, the slop isn't too bad even though I'd prefer it to be firmer. But sometimes there is no feedback when moving into 5th (as in I can't feel it 'lock' into position even though it does). Might be more common when cold but I'm not sure.

Edited August 27, 2014 by Matth5

[pldubs 308]

m20b20/25 Oil sump should fit my m20b27 correct? Same block different heads?

[scottbeattie 63]

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[pldubs 308]

Thank you sire.

[yng_750 247]

Quoting wikipedia... Thats a paddling

[scottbeattie 63]

Still right though...

[louistan3 1]

What do people use for differential oil? any suggestions? Its for my 320i E30. Haven't bought one before and not sure what to buy.

And what sort of pump do you use to put it in? anything sort of DIY as I don't want to spend money on a pump that I might not use that often.....

[Neal 543]

Does the e38 have a heavier battery gauge ground lead that other BMW models ? Hard to tell from internet pics.

[Kepes 231]

What do people use for differential oil? any suggestions? Its for my 320i E30. Haven't bought one before and not sure what to buy.

And what sort of pump do you use to put it in? anything sort of DIY as I don't want to spend money on a pump that I might not use that often.....

As with engine oil, it's very controversial. I used Red Line 75w-90 gear oil. No complaints. Redline oil is known to be extremely quality - I use it everywhere I can. As for actually pumping it, I used the pump from a 1L radox bottle.... Like the hand soap pumps but bigger. Then I went to bunnings and bought some clear tubing that would fit around the output/nose/top (dunno what to call it). Worked a treat. Do a little google searching for the diff oil though. Has to be GL4 or something maybe its GL5 or maybe it's neither but if it's the wrong kind it will corrode or lead to premature failure of the diff. It probably says in the owners manual if you have it.

Hope I helped and good luck!

[louistan3 1]

Where can I get red line? Is there an advantage using that if its more expensive on a DD car?

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[yng_750 247]

Better oils handle the shock more. For a dd any new oil will be an advantage over old crap. Diffs are pretty standard unless it has a plate type lsd. Then you need lsd oil.

For gearboxes some cars habe to use gl4 as the later gl5 has a higher sulfur content which erodes the brass syncros. I know it affects toyotas and hondas up till early 2000s but not sure with euro cars.

[KwS 2425]

I think i got it from BNT last time

Unless the diff is a plate LSD it probably doesnt matter a hell of a lot which diff oil you use IMO.

[Eagle 1662]

BNT do redline. If its just a std open diff then any decent branded 75w-90 would be fine.