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You might prefer the 3 series. Handling will be closer to what you're used to. 3 series lean closer towards sport while 5 series are more luxury. A 335i would definitely meet your 'early torque' requirement. Even a 135i if you want something small. I think you should expect higher service and repair costs than the Suburu. It helps to use an independent BMW specialist rather than a dealer, sometimes you can save by going to wreckers for used parts or buying stuff from international online stores rather than locally.

Can't understand how different dealerships can have such differences (>200%) in price... Yup, waste engine heat conversion into heat inside the cabin is close to 100% but then it all leaks out so effectively 0%. Otherwise you could turn your heater on for 5 minutes and then turn it off again and you'd stay warm for ever... Yup again to the alternator but the conversion of fossil fuel to rotational energy is around 30% then the alternator 95% so close to 30% effective efficiency conversion from fossil fuel to heat (not 10%)... We're also only taking about 0.6kW of energy, it's bugger-all. It's a project being done for the fun of it - I don't care if it's not particularly efficient.

Where do you get heater valves for $280-300? The local BMW shop quoted $650+GST. I'm not charging the battery then taking the energy out - the heater won't turn on until the battery is above 13.5V which means the alternator is active. All the energy for the heater comes from the alternator which is about 95%+ efficient. The total fossil fuel to heat conversion is more likely 30% - still pretty rubbish + isn't using the already waste heat from the engine as you say. However, the project is in part about just doing a conversion with the added bonus of instant heat once the engine is running + no risk of a water leak from the heater core ever again. My solar PV on the house more than makes up for the fossil fuel use the electric heater element will use... Thinking about it though, the heater is actually 0% efficient overall. It makes heat which leaks out of the car so it's a total loss either way it's done.

the armourer's dream. Speaking of armour, I saw the US Ambo's offical BMW 7er the other day, can't be sure but did think it was a High Security 760Li. the window frames were very different.

Probably a safety consideration for all those BMW drivers who end up in the sea...

I put a new one on my E30 a few weeks ago - from here (NZ Based) https://www.euroturbo.nz/shop/product/187544/E30-IS-STYLE-LIP/ - replaced all clips too - around $22 from dealer

Because... "Focused" road car.

My mates are all for the white one. Normally I'm not so pliable in my opinion but I'm struggling here. Oh for more space and time. One thing is for sure - bottle caps do nothing for these cars (although some may suggest my choice of wheels don't either!)

thought it was about time to join this page and share some photos and yarns of my turbo e30 build that has been on going for nearly 3 years... not to sure what else i'm meant to say

Easy, keep the grey one. Dolphin metallic is THE best E30 colour, and paint is more expensive and harder to DIY than mechanicals. IMHO.

I'm definitely an mpar bloke, took me ages to find mine

Common but Style 32s float my barge..........

RD2's are a pretty sweet wheel in general IMO

Hi everyone, I just bought a E90 NZ New Car 325d SE innovations model. Please Let me know things I should be aware of. Thanks

UPDATE I was in the UK for a holiday last year and brought these back with me in my luggage; SPAX rsx coilovers. Adjustable height and adjustable damping. Stainless steel adjusters and spring seats. Really good quality for a reasonable price. I got the subframe and diff into the car. I had to then take it back out again because the lower and upper control arms couldn't be bolted in with the diff in the way. Rookie mistake. But second time is a charm. Because there are 2mm subframe strengthening plates, there needs to be 2mm spacers for the front brace to keep everything correctly aligned. People seem to just sit a spacer in like a big washer, but I wanted to weld the plates to the front brace for a cleaner look. I got the front brace and a couple other missing subframe attaching parts from @BM WORLD so big thanks to Brent. I also wanted to make some strengthening plates for the upper control arms as they are aluminium and known to fail with coilovers. So back to cutting up more 2mm steel. I hammered them to match the contour of the control arm and then I sandblasted them and took them to @aja540i for Andrew to do his powdercoating magic. Front brace was installed, and so was the control arm strengthening plates. I have just washed and reused the rubber spring seats for now. When the car can be driven I can make a decision on what thickness replacement rubber seats I will use. Springs and height adjusters went in easily. Then it was the turn of rear trailing arms. I'm using 330i trailing arms that I got from zebra wreckers, so I can utilise the larger brakes, and larger bearings. Of course they were sandblasted and powdercoated like everything else. I then pressed the new bearings in. New rubber bushes for the control arm attaching points, and powerflex bushings for the trailing arm to body mounts. Then they were installed with the zinc plated bolts. Rear shocks are next. The spax gas shocks got new top rubber mounts, washers, and custom stainless steel reinforcement plates and gaskets. Starting to take shape, and I'm really happy how its looking. Then the sandblasted and powdercoated brake backing plates and hubs were installed.