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Bought another one...

I was lucky enough to catch up with Elijah where we discussed his latest purchase. I'm not sure, but saying "When will you ever get a chance like this again?" may have swayed him. It's gonna be great.

None of these ^ methods involves a burnout, so I am skeptical about their effectiveness.

Nothing quite that outlandish @gjm @TermiPeteNZ it’s a 2000 330ci, factory manual, nz new, 143XXXs with AC schnitzer kit. Needs a little bit of TLC but should be fun

Anyone have a clean set of model 95 wheels for sale? Preferbly Auckland if possible. Cheers

Dude - spill the beans! ?

It’s the lighting I swear ?

Spotted an e60 m5 in this same park today.

Clean your wheels ?

Don't forget to check whether your vehicle has previously had the structural epoxy (foam) applied (BMW did the rear mounts as part of a service bulletin) before welding. You wouldn't want to be welding onto the RACP anywhere structural epoxy has previously been inserted. Bummer that your car has cracks, but not really that surprising. Fortunately it's a well known issue and there's lots of info out there about how to best address. Hope you can get it sorted out!

Seeing the only reason this car is 28k is because of the mileage, but the fact that it's been modded probably means it's been thrashed abit, and it's still 10 years old - and the mileage isn't so important, I can't see the justification in that price. I paid $13k for a 70,000km 2008 335i almost a year ago. Completely mint with all options. It would never have given me any issues if I hadn't had tuned it. BUT, as soon as you wind the boost up, thing's start to show their weakness. 30-70,000km is when things will fail under the higher pressure. TBH I just can't see how this car is worth more than 17-18k

Heres an update on this car at Manukau Zebra; Seeing this in person was hilarious.

$22 for 3 clear coat cans & about 15 for sanding sheets, masking tape and some filler with +-8 hrs of work ...oh dont forget the help of a heat gun ..? ...start each clear coat with a new can for max pressure ???

Found this on my way home

Here's the other one! SMG, Imported in 2005 as far as I'm aware. Owned by a friend of mine - I've got dibs when it goes up for sale

You are in good hands with Peter he works on all my cars exclusively and did majority of the subframe work on my Yellow car - find my post if you like for photos. Depending on the length and location of the crack the epoxy might not be suitable (stop calling it a foam people!!! It’s a bloody structural epoxy that you soak in boiling water to activate for crying out loud!). For cars without any previous cracks the epoxy has proven to work as a preventative as I stated 13 years ago. looking at the photos I think you will need welding given where that crack is and ita length. There will be more when you drop the subframe. Expect a big bill if you want it done properly.