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I've used this on many diesel motors in the past. Max operating temp is 1200'c https://eshop.wurth.co.nz/Copper-paste-CU-800-PAST-CU-800-TUBE-100G/08938001.sku/WuerthGroup-Wuerth.cgid/en/GB/NZD/?VisibleSearchTerm=Copper+grease Be very careful and use the correct tools

Not going to make the mistake of commenting on Global Politics on a car design thread, we all know how that ends up. My reference is purely to the amount of $$$$s involved in the Chinese car market, and how that is influencing the design criteria.

My favourite is the f30 m performance lights, customer got some for his f31, looked amazing

This is a GS6-37BZ as in the 130, which is supposed to run the MT2 life time fill GL4 nonsense. Mine just has 75w90 progear, there is a GL4 progear product as well. Online downside ive seen is its pretty clunky for the first few minutes on real cold mornings.

Unfortunately it's too long ago for me to recall what was in the manual converted car, but its was a hodgepodge of bits thrown together by a specialist at the time. It wouldn't surprise me if the parts were wrong, there was a lot wrong with that conversion.

Lot’s of filling and sanding, nearly ready to prime.

Switching to 75w90 penrite progear on my SMF conversion solved the noises when the stock viscosity got warm (with a spring centre clutch)

Did you have a sprung center plate ?

Here's a drawing of the ledge that worked for me - save's you the time making a template...

My old E36 with single mass flywheel rattled like a bag of bolts at idle in neutral and both that and my M328i rattled/chattered at low rpm when under low. Seemed fairly normal from what I read.

I bought many more horsepowers for the car from the parts dept... I was in two minds about putting the M3 badges on a non-M3 as it really is a pet hate of mine. As this is 1) a race car with lots of genuine M3 parts, least of which engine and box plus 2) it’s a tribute to JRs car and that had the badges on, then I can sleep at night with my decision.

Back to this; were you aware that Mitsubishi actually used a booster on the clutch on the Twin Turbo GTO from factory? Its a far more complex setup than the VH44 one, being under the dash and all, but same concept. There is a lot of good discussion here about using the VH44 booster on a clutch, https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/lighter-clutch-via-vh44-booster.456318/

Does TPMS apply to runflats? If so I'd expect you to need to use the valves because the wheelspeed sensor wouldn't see a meaningful change.

think it looks good on a lighter coloured car, but loses the nice contrast between a dark colour and the red

This would definately trigger my pedant button, factory accessory is an oxymoron. However, like many technical terms, across many industries, things get mis-labelled and mis-quoted until they become common parlance. Anything that is added after the car is a "local fit" or "dealer fit" accessory, often with the word "Genuine" added in for good measure. Which if those lights were added in Palmy would be the case for these lights. These terms have particular relevance when cars are modified or tuned at the dealership - ie a BMW M Performance power & sound pack is added to a car, as this affects things like the emissisons and fuel consumption, etc. but this does not have to be recorded in the MVR / fuel saver information. If the same part were fitted at the factory it would affect the official information stored on the MVR. A technicality maybe, but a legal one. End of pendantry. Just out of mild curiosity are the lights actually BMW parts, or from an aftermarket supplier?

No, not at all, "factory" is perfectly fine, thanks for the confirmation and paint me floored. I won't repeat it, I might get banned, but your description is apt.

Still sidetracked on the genuine E30 M3 parts. They have been helpful in nutting out how to mount the fibreglass parts, but I’m spending far too much time chipping the paint off and cleaning them up to be honest.Paint layers on the rear bumper are stupidly thick, thankfully coming away reasonably easy. Front bumper is pretty much there for prime and paint now. Using the wooden dowels for location to work out mounts, etc. Genuine spoiler ready for priming, mocked up in fibreglass boot lid. Spoiler is a bit heavier, but is correct for the JPS M3 so will use that. Genuine boot is made from “fibrolite” or something and weighs heaps so won’t use that. To make more work for myself and things more difficult, I have decided to use the genuine bumpers for display & classic “gentleman’s” racing and the fibreglass for the more competitive BMW class. Having them interchangeable adds another dimension of complexity, but I have a good idea...