Leaderboard

We are not a "new" member here, but notifying all members of our new contact details: We are still happy to sponsor Bimmersport members who mention the forum, and will receive a 15% discount on all in-store items. For those who don't know, Gavin retired earlier this year, and I (Rodney) took over, and look forward to assisting Bimmersport members and meeting some of you. Hence, we have rebranded, and have become even more BMW-focused, especially catering to older E30, E28, E36 models. Our new email address is: [email protected] . Some members may be using the older emails for Gavin, which are now inactive - but we're still around! We are also now on Instagram and Facebook - and also have a new website: www.euroitalianparts.com. Our phone and address is the same: 09 444 9817 / 15C Saturn Place, Rosedale, Auckland 0632. You can also text/WhatsApp me direct on +64 27 446 6547.

From memory it was manual converted. No sports seats either. 48k will buy you an E61 M5

LOL. Gavin stopped these a while back, but it is "in review". 😀 Apparently, the chocolates melted a few times.

I want to say it was originally advertised at double that 4-5 months ago too? $14k seems reasonable for a tidy two door with mint sports interior. Market has definately cooled off in general, although apparently that Malachite Green wagon actually sold for $48k 😲

Update: went to Conti BMW, bought the part, showed it to the local garage, confirmed it's the correct one - going in for replacement tomorrow.

Some useful information here.... https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5245/~/what-size-fuel-pump-do-i-need%3F The 400lph pump wants to push 400lph down the pipe and if there is no more than 40psi backpressure it will draw 10.68amps. However, if you are utilising the factory fuel lines and bypass regulator sized for less than (say) 115lph, then having to pass more than three times as much fuel is very likely to be creating quite a bit more than 40psi backpressure. Your pump is now a fuel heater recirculating all that excess fuel back into the tank and drawing more amps than expected. The pump motor will be a series wound DC motor and and is rated to deliver a certain amount of power (Watts) at 12.5V. So long as the power demand (load) stays constant, there is an inverse relationship between amps and volts. As the volts go down the amps will go up, and vice versa. Cheers...

That pump is rated to over 1000hp so if you are making 250hp (or something similar) the pump is WAY TOO BIG !!! Neither the factory fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator or pump wiring will be adequate to handle what that pump can deliver. I can't guess how many amps it will be drawing, but if the supply is down to 8.4 volts the current draw will be about 50% higher than it would be if you had 12.5V at the pump. Sounds like the fuse was right on the verge of blowing before you put the check valve in line, and the extra bit of added resistance to flow was enough to finish it off. I think that you can count yourself lucky that your car didn't burn to the ground You need to find a pump with a flow rating more appropriate to the flow your engine needs. If you think you have 250hp then get a pump rated at 300-350hp, that will be all you need and the factory lines, wiring etc MAY be able handle the load. Cheers...

A fair price imho. I’d have paid that. (Damn)

Made it to Hamilton for Fieldays! Trip up from Wellington absolutely flawless, cluster now showing 54.3mpg which is 5.2L/100km in our money. can’t complain with that , and now that it’s had a big outing like that I feel very confident in the car ! Always a bit of a risk after sitting for that amount of time ! Only issue that will need some attention sooner rather than later is I think the center support bearing in driveshaft wants replacement, usual feeling from right where that is, not a very common issue on low power e46 but can happen on higher power and of course manual ones, and ones with nearly 500,000km on the clock !

Looks like it sold for 29k https://auctions.webbs.co.nz/m/lot-details/index/catalog/502/lot/121802/1993-BMW-M5?url=%2Fm%2Fview-auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F502

Great news for classic BMW owners! https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/bmw/359259/buy-fewer-new-cars-and-keep-old-ones-longer-says-bmw-boss?fbclid=IwAR1BqFFAvhoOs47AQDl9G4ozCaW4CStYD9vCakt1TWvfQATQVmpEJGdTiJY

Hit a big milestone over the weekend which I'm super excited about. Picking up where I left off, hung the engine up from the stand to install the rear main seal. All the bolts nice and clean and put a dab of high-temp thread sealer on the two big bolts to prevent those pesky leaks. The two small plugs on the front and rear also went in with the thread sealer. Also bashed in the new pilot bearing in anticipation. The shiny new sprocket arrived so I could box on with installing the chains and front cover. Bought a brand new set of iwis Racing chains. Not exactly sure what the difference is with the regular ones but at only a couple of dollars' difference, figured I might as well. The oil pump chain does seem to have a bit less slack to it but might be wishful thinking. Got a slotted oil pump nut from ECS Tuning that went on with a bit of blue thread sealer for good measure. For whatever reason, the safety wire included with the kit was stupidly short, so short that I really struggled tying it down properly and ended up making a total mess of it. You pay something like US$18 for a bloody nut and they cheap out on you with a couple of cents worth of wire... Had to go out to get a whole new roll of SS wire and had another go. Came out much better the second time around, and now have a spare 12.8m of wire left to no doubt satisfy a lifetime's worth of safety wire needs... 1st attempt Take two Front timing cover went on, as well as the crank pulley that I ended up just rattling on with an impact wrench. Quite a crude and probably not the ideal approach but really don't have access to or any leads on a torque wrench that would handle the required 410Nm. The impact wrench approach seems to have worked for quite a few people before so good enough for me. The crank pulley looked in good nick with no visual imperfections on the rubber ring on the back so was happy enough to reuse it after a good clean, with a brand new crank bolt of course. Gave the oil pan a final clean too and that went on next, with a brand new oil level sensor and a magnetic oil plug I'd inherited. Then onto the big one - the cylinder head install. This was the part I was the most nervous about so had to ask a mate around for some emotional support. First off, checked the sealing of the valves. Threaded in some old spark plugs and poured in some petrol, then blew compressed air into the intake and exhaust sides. No drop in the level and no bubbling from the compressed air so looked all good. Installed a pair of brand new dowel pins to the top of the block as I'd managed to mangle up the old two when removing them. Then the new standard size head gasket and cylinder head after a final clean. Having read through one too many an account of the threads stripping out and recommendations to preventatively timesert the block and whatnot, I was dreading this part of the whole project the most. Turns out I needn't have worried. Applied a light coating of oil to the new bolts so that they were covered but not dripping, then torqued down to 20Nm, 40Nm and two doses of 90 degrees, all in the correct sequence. All went much smoother than I would have imagined. The resistance on the bolts felt very consistent throughout and no funny creaking or squeaking at all. Don't mean to jinx it but looks a straight line to the finish from here on. Was a massive relief getting over this hurdle successfully, now just a matter of cleaning up the last bits and bolting everything together. Was so excited that was tempted to chuck an all-nighter and not show up to work on Monday but after a few celebratory drinks, exhaustion got the best of me. Will box on in the coming days. Still harboring hopes of getting the car up and running before the end of 2022 but will see how we go.

Previously I've bought most parts offshore but had a fantastic experience with Euro Italian recently when I needed a new tie rod end for the E30 and got it on a same day courier on a Monday at a great price. A real lifesaver which saved me having the car off the road for a while. Will definately be using you in the future!

Thanks! Yes, I really like the Colour too. The boot lid has be repainted, not well, but the Colour is right. Something to sort another time. I plan to keep it as original as possible, which should be easy, after a good groom up and a few bits of trim fixed up. Had a mostly good run from Hamilton (1060kms), over 2 days with my son, with the main issue being blocked fuel pick up on the in tank fuel pump. Unfortunately the tank has a rust problem, and the pump is still the original. Dropped the tank out yesterday which was a bit of a mission, so I’m guessing it will need resealed as I imagine a used rust free tank would be hard to find? I’ll replace the fuel pump with a new unit too. Engine seems strong otherwise.

Very nice! Good find!

Do you still do the lollies?

Having bought from Rodney, it seems the service is just as good as many of us came to expect from Gavin. (In case you're wondering, that's * good * )

My BMW X1 2011 have done only 45k and its rocker head cover gaskit / seal was cracked and leaking oil. Never expected this from BMW. Later I have come to know that its common problem with BMW. The plastic cover is also de-shaped a little. My mechanic have fixed a later model with the same issue. Why BMW don't make covers from a high temp resistant material? I have seen BMW running in +40 degree heat of Middle East but temperature in New Zealand are much lower then other hot countries.