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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/07/23 in Posts
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4 points
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2 pointsHi team Ray here just bought my first BMW , a nice and tidy 2013 F31 328i Luxury - so pleased always wanted to take the plunge - been Holden all my life , and just sold my Holden Opel ZB to buy the BMW - best move ever be prepared to answer list of well intended dumb questions 😂 cheers ray
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2 pointsCar got blanket bombed by a bird, from the size of the dropping it must have been the size of a bloody albatross! Hard to get a decent photo of the results with the reflections…. At least all the rain made it pretty soft and easy to wipe off!
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2 pointsIf you want a crimped fit commercial hose then Enzed is your way, if you want a braided set up then follow Cements advice. If you do go through DIY then buy all the gear from one brand, AN hosing is not all the same and won't always play well between brands.
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2 pointsFinished the rebuild of the front left brake calliper. Fresh boots, a good clean, and fresh paint, decal and clear coat. Very happy with how the paint came out, for anyone wondering the m4 brake colour is Estoril blue.
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2 pointsHave a welder at home if you want to fix the leak @Sammo, I think we are in the same sort of area.
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1 pointthank you! I went to a local auto paint supplier, this one was called car colours, brought in the brake caliper and used what they recommended. I used a generic high temp paint as a primer, then got the auto paint supplier to custom tint a spray can in estoril blue, and then I used a 2K clear over the top after putting on the decal, which I ordered off a website in England. The true test will be to see how it lasts, but at least for now it looks good! brake calliper decals from here: https://www.brakecaliperdecals.co.uk/BMW-Decals/BMW-M-Brake-Caliper-Decals
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1 pointThat looks absolutely mint man. Did you paint it yourself? What sort of paint did you use? Going to be doing mine soon but no idea what products to use yet.
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1 pointI ended up grabbing it. Everything is about what you'd expect for a minimally maintained BMW. Has oil leaks from the valve cover, gearbox is a bit funny to shift into, intake boot is duct taped up to seal a split. Will uncover more once the weather fines up. Plan to check the compression, and the gearbox it has, as the vin decoder returns it as an auto. However it does have working cruise control, so its likely been done correctly.
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1 pointI've put a small mortgage through Racelab for Speedflow fittings ... pretty sure they can make the hoses up for you there also. Same as GSS and other places. Pop in and see Neil for a chat Don't be put off assembling yourself also its all pretty straight forward 👍
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1 pointMate has his Audi S4 chip tuned by Basil, loved the outcome. For that money maybe call round places like Flame or RE Sinclair see if they can do a remap and rough costs. I see to recall I had my 200sx tuned for $1000 ish
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1 pointAside from a bit of drone under low load at 1500-2000 (rarely experienced due to gearing) I’m very happy with the current sound. This is the only part where it goes to a single pipe - presumably adapted to fit the one in two out Remus muffler.
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1 pointHonestly I just hope it fires up, getting increasingly more nervous the closer it gets to the time to turn the key Got the front end back together, great to have it back looking like an actual car again. Reattached the sway bar with new bushings and slipped in the strut tower reinforcement plates, will leave the rest of the suspension untouched for now. Got onto swapping out the diff. Decided to put in the auto 330 diff (3.38) from the donor car for now rather than messing about swapping over the input flanges on the 325 auto diff (3.46). Want to give the manual 2.93 diff a fresh lick of paint and new fluids before putting it in for good with the rest of the refurbished subframe later down the track so left it out for now. Good chance to try out the different ratios as well. Was a bit of a mission wrestling it in and out but got there in the end. The exhaust gaskets arrived yesterday so got onto attaching the manifolds. Absolute PITA of a job, started early afternoon and finished around 1am. Fitted new pre-car O2 sensors and blocked out the post's with nuts from Redline delivered overnight. Then got onto the fun part... Honestly, not sure if it's even possible to fit them in without removing the exhaust side engine mount arm. Gave it a quick half-arsed effort but quickly resorted to slightly jacking the front of the engine up (having removed the engine mount nuts on both sides prior) and took the arm out. That opened up enough room to wrestle both the cats past the subframe but was still a balancing act holding them both in there and trying to thread on a few bolts, at the same time trying not to knock the gaskets off the studs. Got there in the end but then made a bit of a misstep. Got the Bank 2 manifold bolted and properly torqued up and jumped onto Bank 1. The right thing to do would have been to at least roughly throw the engine mount arm back in place and reattach the small bracket to the block that holds onto the Bank 1 manifold right after the cat. I only realised my mistake after fully torquing up both manifolds. Of course the engine mount would not fit back through with the manifolds in the way. No way I was going to remove them again so instead I unbolted the power steering hoses (luckily I hadn't filled the system up with fluids yet) and LCA bushing that allowed me to swing the control arm out of the way enough to manoeuver the arm into place. Then I discovered there's not enough room between the block and the manifold to fit in the top bolt for the little bracket (seen in the photo below). Not sure if it serves much of a purpose but wanted to attach it regardless so I ended up cutting the top bolt about 8mm short that gave just enough room to thread it on. So far I think that's the first (and hopefully only) shortcut that I've had to resort to so won't be losing any sleep over it. Reattached the steering linkage and that should be that in the engine bay, short of fitting the beauty covers and cabin filter housing. Had to rotate the plastic guiding tab thingy on the steering rack input shaft so that the steering wheel and the wheels themselves are pointing (seemingly) straight. Prior to that also replaced the top section of the steering linkage with one I stumbled upon at Pick-A-Part. Wouldn't have bothered with the effort but someone had done all the work of removing the thing so it was just laying there looking pretty in the engine bay of one of the cars so I couldn't walk past. I knew the old one had been subjected to some serious abuse in its past life so just another small thing to tidy up. Things to do still: Sort out the driveshaft Fit exhaust Fluids - bleed brakes & clutch, cooling system, power steering Coding - have never done it before but with some awesome guides out there, hoping it won't be too messy an affair. Not sure if the order matters but will first update the DME to the latest EU2 330i software following this guide. That should code out the post-cat O2's so two birds with one stone. Then, code out the EGS module following this one and that should be that. Hopefully. Famous last words. If I was a bite-my-nails type of person, I probably wouldn't have any left at this point. Exciting times.
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1 point165,360 kms. Transformed the front end with two new Michelin PS5 tyres. The level of grip on these things is immense! Will upgrade the rears post suspension refresh. Replaced the faulty passenger door lock actuator. A frustrating but deeply satisfying upgrade! IMG_5944.MOV
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1 pointThey are awful things to try and maneuver, oversized with a poor turning radius. Just piles of crap in general really, that why they only have one type of owner.