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Hey all I’ve recently returned to Masterton, NZ after 20 years working for BMW in Europe and Japan. I spent the last eight years at BMW HQ in Munich. Now I have bought and am running a panel and paint shop in Masterton called CE Spray Collision Repairs. I don’t currently have a car but I’m in the hunt for something. Any clean and tidy BMW with 6 cylinders will get my attention. Borrowing my family’s Audi S3 in the interim which is at least Bavarian. Thought I’d put up a few of my favourite company cars that i had in the last few years. There were some stunners and I really miss them. I look forward to participating in this forum. Cheers Andrew

Kicked off the reassembly straight after work yesterday and couldn't stop myself until it was all put together... at 4am. Despite mustering up just the 3 hours, didn't manage to stay asleep past my usual 7am so got up and went for a drive. Did the steering angle sensor calibration with BMW Scanner which cleared the trifecta lights from the dash. Only annoying light that remained was the fuel level warning... Did some varied driving, slow bits around the neighbourhood at first followed by a scenic ride through Sumner - Governor's Bay - Dyers Pass. Did a bunch of gentle rolling pulls from 2k to 4k RPM and coast down to 2k, then hit some hilly-twisty bits, frequently stopping to check for leaks and temps. Clocked up just over 100km. The car starts up fine but the starter seems to make a different sound than what I can remember, bit of a higher pitched whirring noise with a slight rattle. The last startup I did when checking for leaks I forgot that I hadn't put the flywheel on the night before so it spun over freely without and load for about a second. Don't know if that would have done anything but hope it didn't stuff it. The starter itself was from I believe 2012 so was replaced at some point, I took it apart, checked that the brushes were still good and lubed it up so does function as it should. Not sure what the issue might be but will monitor it. When removing the gearbox, it got caught on the sound deadening fabric and ripped it a bit so it could just be the extra noise coming through. The engine feels super solid, got more used to the gearbox as the drive went on. Power feels good and effortless, idle is smooth but had a couple of patches of grumbling when sitting still at lights. The gearbox still feels lurchy / jittery at times in 1st & 2nd. Even when not changing gear but, for example, going over railway lines all the way in second, it starts lurching when getting back on the power. Hopefully it goes away as the clutch beds in properly. The 3.38 diff probably doesn't help either, first gear is virtually useless, definitely not sticking with it long-term. Otherwise, absolutely buzzing to have gotten to this point. Small gremlins aside, the car is an absolute joy to drive, tracks nice and straight, the ride is smooth, and it'll only get better from here as I kick on with refurbing the rear subframe, suspension, brakes, wheel bearings etc. Thanks to everyone that's chimed in with advice and encouragement along the way. Special shout out to @Eagle who's been a massive help throughout. Absolute legend mate. Probably overkill this soon but will do a quick oil change and do another 500km with the running in oil. Will take the bottom covers back off and give everything a once-over whilst I'm at it but nothing seems to be leaking past them so far anyway. Happy days.

We reckon its still well off the pace at the offer to achieve a sale, would be very surprised if it finds a new home. For what the differences of the S7MA Comp package are from a LCI or facelift (post 2010) : 10mm lower ride height, style 359 wheels and EDC, which of course is an option on all LCI cars plus M mode is enabled too. The early cars have different lettering on the switchgear etc. There was a v. nice 2010 E92 manual sold the other day, NZ new (not that makes a difference really) half the kms fetched $32.5k from memory, sure not a comp spec, but looking at the number of these available (38) more sellers than buyers................there is a signal hidden somewhere here perhaps? 🤨

Time for a bit of an update... The OxfordG 525 turned out very nice and has now been sold to a lucky recipient, excluding my labour I even turned a very rare $299 profit lol... If it weren't for the fact that the X3 is the ideal daily for my work/play at the moment it would not have gone anywhere... Being rather time poor I farmed out the painting of the Topaz 540 to a mate of a mate who did come well regarded... the result was OK, but there is a bit of orange peel correction to be done at some point. It has been assembled, a replacement windscreen fitted, WOF'd and the a/c regassed. Lots of other stuff has been done when assembling such as rear parcel tray re-dye and interior clean, rear windscreen trim, side trims, M5 mirrors. Things to do include repairing an assembly scratch on the rear bumper I just can't unsee, perhaps alloy wheel refresh and new tyres maybe. I can't make up my mind which 540 msport to sell so I just may advertise both and see which one goes first... As a refresher this 2002 topaz one has had a fair bit done, just review this thread... timing chain guides and all stuff in there is the main feature (as is with the Biarritz too), and now the paint and interior. If anyone is interested now in either the 99 Biarittz Individual 540 or the 02 Topaz 540 then please message me. Prices negotiable and will depend on how much more I throw at these cars.... and I can fully expand on the extensive work done... The dark M5 style 65 wheels on Biarittz will not be sold, which ever car sells will come with style 66's as pictured. Oh yeah.. in other news, a 2000 e38 740i Msport has found its way here... much to be done in the e39/8 rescue centre... although my business model /community service of "buy cheap / spend heaps / sell for a massive loss" I realise is unsustainable... just ask the missus... 😂

Thought I would post this up in case it helps anyone else out there. I bought a Dash cam and wanted to hardwire it into my '09 E91 and found a lot of conflicting information out there. I was looking at the Fuse layout behind the glove box. Easy enough to access once you remove the 2 screws either side on the plastic covering plate. One YouTube video encouraged me to remove some plastic pin to drop the glovebox lid/door down a little. Don't do this. I wasted 5 minutes trying to reinsert the little plastic pin to the pneumatics that drop the lid/door and did not gain any additional access when I had it out. I think there are 2-3 different types of Fuse layout for these cars, I think the first 1-2(?) types of layout are mostly found on the earlier models and mine was a Type 2, post-2008. I used this page - https://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html as a reference but some of the info in there seemed a bit off. The Type 2 diagram half way down appears to match my layout and fuses pretty closely. I was looking for a 5Amp feed when ignition was off for the Dash cam. A lot of posts out there claim that Fuse 81 and 83 are good candidates for always-on power but no comment as to how many Amps they are. I thought this information a bit suspect as Fuse 81 and 83 on my board appear to be pretty high Amps 30-40Amp sockets. Also a lot of people complaining that the "always-on" fuses that they located will function for 1-2 hours then power down afterwards. This post - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125203 and specifically this post - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11060092&postcount=21 was the key. (TL:DR) Fuse 2 turned out to be the one!! Dash cam all wired up to this bad boy and worked like a charm on motion sensor mode all night long. The only problem now seems to be that the cam looks like it melted sitting in there all day in the summer sun... (See pic)

2012 F20 BMW M135i in Alpine White with Alcantara interior. Only 78,XXX km. No modifications. Starting price (reserve) is set at the trade price. I’d rather someone who really wants one to have it at this price rather than a dealer! Reserve = $17500 Buy now = $19500 This car has been well loved and looked after. It is in very good condition: Just back from a groom at Elite Detailing Front bumper respray in January 2023 No curbing on wheels Always serviced at Wellington European (last service November 2022) Two keys Non-smoker/vaper Features: Turbocharged 3.0-litre straight six producing 315 bhp (235kW) 0-100km/h takes just 4.9 seconds Rear wheel drive 8 speed automatic gearbox BMW M Performance brakes with slotted disks (pads and disks replaced November 2022) NZ Maps and navigation Bluetooth telephone and audio Reversing camera and parking sensors Multiple safety features Automatic headlights, wipers etc Fully electric sports seats with inflatable side bolsters Lights package and comfort access Things to note: Rear tyres have 2.5mm tread remaining Front tyres were new in May 2022 (all Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003) Minor paint blemish on passenger side door (EDIT - now removed) https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3972642175?bof=34mdzS7x

Yeah, basically. Don't know how to describe it better. Not every time though, got the hang of it after a while and just applied throttle more gently, basically being a grandpa off the line. Only happened when taking off or when coasting in 2nd and start applying throttle from zero. Might just be a matter of getting used to it and the short diff. More concerningly though, figured out what the deal with the starter is - it didn't seat properly. Realised what I'd done wrong. When installing the transmission, the first thing I did was tighten up the 4 big bolts, lifted the rear of the transmission in place and bolted up the mount. Only then did I go to seat the starter in place and although the bolts (somehow) torqued up to spec, on closer look, it clearly sits at an angle, the pin at the top of the bell housing not going into the hole and pressing against the casing so the starter sat with the top tilted outward. Surprised it started up at all and luckily doesn't look to have done any real damage. What must have happened is the backing plate got tightened down just a millimeter or two out of whack. Played around with if for a good 2 hours yesterday and just cannot get it to seat even - either the bottom's in and the top pin rests against the rim or the pin is somewhat aligned and the bottom edge sticks out. Such a tight and awkward space as well, can't really see much of what you're doing and just going by feel. I guess all I can do is drop the exhaust, driveshaft again, tilting the engine back to get to the damn top bolts, crack all the bolts slightly loose and try align the backing plate properly. Can almost do it with my eyes closed at this point... Super annoying but happy to have caught it before it grenaded itself. In more positive news, how good is this? Not a single drop of fluids on the bottom covers. Taking bets on how long it remains like this 😄 Oil change done. A good amount of magnetic sludge in there, as to be expected but nothing too concerning otherwise. Another wrenchfest incoming.

Don't worry, she was safe and sound by the time it got gnarly!

Agreed. The amount of effort and hours you have put into is certainly commendable. Basically a bench test by starting it without the flywheel, not a problem. When you say lubed what are we talking about here?. Bendix and pinion cleaned?. Could record the noise next time you start it. Im assuming you dont think its engine related? By lurching and you saying its bucking forward and back when accelerating in lower gears?, when going on\off the throttle? or is a just an initially lurch when re-applying throttle?. Yeah first gear can be a little jerky on\off throttle a low speeds with drivetrain movement and im sure that 3.38 diff doesnt help. New clutch and flywheel shouldn't give any issues assuming they are working correctly. Sounds like one of those things you really want to drive it yourself to experience.

Fantastic! Love how fast you have executed this project. Also thanks for supplying such a detailed thread for others (but mainly myself) to follow. Has been great to follow and looking forward to the future progress.

That’s not going to shift with those janky aftermarket headlights IMO

I have a feeling as the year goes on, sellers will have to drop the prices of these to actually meet the market. Time will tell though!

Very, very well done, you should be proud of that effort, props.

Here is an N18 manual on Facepage, no sunroof if you can live without that. Otherwise looks good. Located ChCh. Well priced to cover cost of trip. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/946369403407909

Peel back the outer tape etc, splice in new wire etc, check fuses and see what happens…

I think a couple of Auckland E30 owners took advantage of the situation to do a few skids… @Sammo Fingers crossed it didn’t end badly for any, there was certainly a lot of crazy sh*t going down here last night!