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Well I now know what really bad tyres feel like. I have always bought decent midrange tyres or premium when I could afford it. My current daily driver, a Skoda Superb Came fitted with some Laufen S-FIt AS, 235 45 17s up front. The Rear is fitted with some Farroad FRD26's in the same sizing. To be fair the rear has shown no bad habit's yet but I dont punt it along enough to get it to break loose. The fronts are a different story however. In the dry they are ok, but quite vague. The issue is in the wet. I can get them to break traction in both 2nd and 3rd gear just by using too much throttle, especially in turns. Its very unnerving and it is only the traction control that seems to snap it back into line. The Superb is the current model, with the 110kw 340nm diesel. Being a FWD diesel with a good amount of torque, I did expect some understeer in the wet , but this is ridiculous. Hypedrive have some decent Goodyear deals on at present, so I will likely but some Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6 tyres. Hopefully that will help fix the problem.

Acquired this a couple months ago and just got it back on the road. Bought it de-registered and all it required was a right front door and driver's side guard, some paint and repair cert for compliance. Got it all done and dusted, complied, registered and some RUCs for 7k all up which I am not complaining about. She has been a beautiful car. All I have added thus far is a front splitter and the mirror caps which I bought online for measly dollars. Will be updating this as I go along my journey. It came on these factory 19 inch wheels but looking to get some 3 piece 20 inch wheels for it and lower it a tad on H&R super sport springs. Currently doing 117k and will go up as I commute - a lot! Here's some pics

Not to push you into further scope creep, but I'd be tempted to do a full facelift conversion 😏 Shouldn't be too involved, just straight swapping parts unless the headlights are different type (halogen vs xenon). Can get a good quality brand new corner light + fender indicator set from Spareto for roughly $50...

My Falcon Turbo was a good tyre tester. Had brand new Re002 on it, they were great until half worn, they were then so bad I replaced them. Had Roadking (Korean something), they had surprisingly good straight line grip wet or dry, but terrible wet weather grip sideways, possibly from the noticeably softer sidewalls(?). Then Continental something 5, sport I think. They were pretty good, although got a sideways drift out of a hairpin on the Coromandel road with family in the car that I wasn’t expecting, never felt great about their performance. Then my favourites, Pilot Super Sports, would have again, got destroyed by a cut in the road taking out a rim in the process.. Finally, some Federals, seemed ok, but sold the car before having much time with them. Cheap or relatively pricey, I still think they are a lottery, but agree that cheaper seems to equal worse in the wet in general.

I had Nankang NS2s on a Mercedes 300SE. Could easily break traction, slide, anything except grip in both wet and dry. Keeping it straight and not spinning the wheels was far more of a challenge. Conversely, we ran some Black Lions for a while, and they were better than some premium brands. But that's not typical. You don't always get what you pay for - there are some very poor 'expensive' tyres - but it is usual that as price increases, grip, wear and noise improve.

As boring as silver is it definitely has it's upsides when it comes to finding parts. I found the parts car on marketplace up north and got my dad to trailer it back to his, cost me $1000 which isn't too bad considering how much all these parts would cost on their own and how hard they are to find. Gotta get to work getting all the black interior bits since I need to redo my headliner at some point. Scope creep keeps expanding... Sounds like I should take that Lf-30 since I've got it sitting in there anyway and mine really doesn't seem super healthy. Might have to take you up on that offer for those O-rings, was looking at this kit. Let me know if you need any touring bits since I'm taking it apart anyway.

Good to hear you have that working.. for your snapin, have a look at this thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1228584 it may give you some clues... OR If you VO code the HU it should sort the coding for the snapin, and then afterwards adjust HK coding... (assuming the vehicle has the snapin adaptor factory /FA coded already) there is a number of USB settings/combos available, so that's where VO coding it is the easy option - but FA must be correct first! (when using bummer utility to modify the FA - after completing FA coding, it will then ask if you want to VO code affected modules. (yes / no option) - very handy feature. but of course will reset any custom codings on the said modules.) good luck...

Spotted this morning in Cronulla - totally unrestored Torana GTR in the right colour:

If anyone *does* buy it to part out for the sum of the bits - I'll take the red interior and carpet please! I do find it funny the state of the front bumper - anyone whose pulled the mt2 front bumper knows that their density is only matched by that of black holes. The fibreglass / plastic (whatever it's made of) bumper reinforcement is over-engineered by about a factor of five - as ably demonstrated here, as it's still kicking and has transferred all the load into the chassis legs. Prime candidate for a reshell as SJ mentioned - anyone got a cool colour coupe (Calypso / Lagoon / Lazur / Vulcan) kicking about?

The ‘crystal knob’ may even be sitting in the drivers seat 🧐