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If you thought the Sony Carplay tablet install was a bit of a far step from OEM you're gonna love the latest changes to this one.

Fitted the seats I had reupholstered about 4 to 5 years ago in finally. They compliment the grey really nicely. Also fixed my odo gears with new one's as the odo stopped working just after I fitted the seats coincidently

I've been working towards a replacement engine for the M50B30 build I did about 6 years ago. On that build I don't know what was done with the stroker conversion (done by Sam at HellBM M50B30) - suspect it was just a quick fit of the rotating assembly without using many new parts. This engine has been running really well for over 110,000km's so far. I was going to build a replacement along the same lines but this time with more aggressive cams, porting and ITB's. The current engine makes 220kW @ 6500RPM and 343Nm @ 5500 RPM. The new NA engine might have achieved 270kW... However, an entry level turbo build could easily achieve this and be a much easier build. So, I've now decided to go turbo and knowing nothing about what can and can't be done I'm looking for advice. What I have for what was going to be a NA build is: M50B25 Iron Block (was going to bore this to 86mm and with the M54B30 crank and aftermarket rods and pistons make a M50B32) M54B30 crank (also have rods and pistons but don't expect these to be used for a turbo build) M50B25 crank M50B25 vanos head (although will likely lock the vanos and tune around it) - sick of rebuilding vanos units every 75k's M50B25nv Intake M50B25 Bored TB S50B30 Oil filter housing and cooler S50B30 ITB's + Plenum (currently for sale on Trademe - not anymore...) Link G4+ If the RPM's are kept under 6500, could the M54B30 crank be used to make a M50B30 turbo or am I better to get a M50B28 crank? My target is minimum 320kW from either 2.8L or 3.0L configuration. I'll be doing a fresh build with new bearings and +0.5mm oversize bore. New pistons will be required for the 0.5mm bore and if new rods are required I'll do that too. At this stage all I'm looking for is the best rotating assembly option to be able to reliably make 320kW+ without revving too high (under 6500 for 3L and under 7000 for 2.8L options). Looking to keep compression as high as possible and use less boost. Anyone know ballpark compression requirement and how much boost would be required? Also ballpark boosted rev range on either configuration?

^ I live just around the corner. Had to do a double take when driving past yesterday afternoon 🙂

I do consider myself fortunate, been a combo of good luck and hard work with long work hours. Wife included. I think you’re right in enjoying the present. Father’s life got cut short before he got to retire, but he still had an excellent life and pursued interesting stuff. But he was certainly looking forward to retirement and was planning travel etc. Almost joined him but got a second chance due to the skill of the medical profession and determination to recover. Life 2.0 I call it. Make a point of living in the present and doing stuff that I enjoy. Also trying to justify spending habits 😀.

I think a bloke has to have hobbies and do things that we enjoy. Had a health scare a couple of years back which changed my outlook to an extent. Make a point of doing enjoyable things. This hobby was has been a good one where I’ve been able to chunk down the work in smaller lots as I’ve gone through recovery. I enjoy the learning process that goes into doing this as I did with the e46 stereo system. Hopefully I haven’t become OCD on this one 😀 Cost wise it has been accumulating but probably only 10% of the purchase price of the car. I’ve got the stereo mentioned with a value of $6k for the equipment in my insurance policy, but time wise if the worst happens I’d probably enjoy building another one ( eyeing up the wife’s SUV as this project comes to a finish 🤣) With this car I’m not at that point of constant worry that I see mates get into with custom cars that they have 1000s of hours of time and are of a high value and never let the vehicle out of their sight. I do daily it and lease carpark which has plenty of parking room and good neighbours, but can break out a sweat if parking in a busy supermarket carpark as many of us BMW drivers do 😀.

I am now true to my username with the car. (PLATE) but also I upgraded the interior to a set I had reupholstered about 5 yeara ago. I love the contrast between the dark exterior and bright interior. It looks different in different lighting but it is blood red with black stitching.

Z4 3.0SI Recent suspension overhaul, Bilstein B4 with Eibach springs all round. Sway bar bushes, end links, RTAB, alignment all completed at same time. Looking to move to a 4 door fun car, consider deals and cash your way for a 4 door M car, or AMG etc. 131,000 kms approx $16,000.00 ono

On the contrary, I think it looks great. Which is lucky, being that it's my car

It came!!! such a work of art!

Dont even get me started on Supercats. They shouldnt be legally able to be sold as tyres. Barely ok in the dry, but downright dangerous in the wet. Had two or three cars come on them now and all have been like driving on marbles in the wet.

I have had a god Run with RE003's. I found them predictable and decent in the wet, not to bad when pushing hard. I have Pilot Sports on the 540is and they were good but are close to replacement now. I like the look of the Goodyear Asymmetric 6 for $200 each. The reviews are very good.

Hi Team, I've been lurking on here for a while but never committed to writing up a project summary for my Beamer, so here it goes. I picked up my 1993 E34 back in 2015 for the grand sum of $3000 with north of 250,000Km on the clock. It was not running very well, it leaked all kinds of colors and the clutch was poked as was the suspension. The positive points were that it had a manual transmission and an M52B28 fitted instead of the original M50B25. Thanks mainly to the color, the car quickly earned the nickname 'Ronin' after the Dunkelblau M5 'getaway car' that features in the movie of the same name. This Ronin however was not getaway ready, but I think I've rectified that deficiency. The first job was to fix the tired clutch, which I sorted by going to an E30 race series favorite carbon-kevlar unit. I matched the new clutch with a single mass flywheel from a 318i E30 and this combo is still going strong today. To rectify the driveline challenges in the car I have replaced the tired G240 E30 transmission with a G220 E46 unit. This also required the change from a 3.92 differential to a 3.19 ratio unit which results in 2,700Rpm @ 100Kph which feels ideal. After the gearbox swap I put some effort into the shifter connection which required some modification to work with the newer gearbox. I have gone with a Turner Motorsport shift bush kit and an Ruf adjustable short shifter. Topped off with a leather Msport knob & boot it feels incredible to row through the box. Regarding the tired suspension, this received a full refresh as did the steering linkages. I went with Bilstein HD shock absorbers and H&R sport springs which seems to be a good combo for decent stiffness whilst retaining relative comfort. Now that the driveline is sound and the suspension is sorted, it's time for some power. As it sat, the power delivery was very 'lumpy' with holes in the torque band and lost torque. I fitted the larger M50 intake manifold and matched it up with a set of M3 injectors, I then fitted one of those trick LINK ECU E36 G4X computers. Luckily the 93' E34 525i ECU is identical to the 325i E36 which made the LINK ECU a direct plug in job. After a dyno tune I've ended up with a claimed 234Hp and 300Nm, which is a healthy step up from the original output and more than enough to really enjoy hustling the car. Most importantly the power delivery is now beautifully linear and plenty of torque is available from 2,500RPM, so the larger intake manifold has not hurt the bottom end appreciably. I am also impressed with the car's performance considering it is still breathing through a decat M50 exhaust and manifold from the original engine configuration, perhaps something to look at in future. After the engine tuning I decided to finally get the whole thing engineering certified, which it passed with flying colours. The latest round of modifications have been purely aesthetic. I have made up some BMW dealer plate surrounds, fitted some EU spec yellow high beam tints and installed clear indicator lenses. I have also recently fitted some staggered Hartge 17"wheels (reproductions I believe), wrapped with 235 wide rubber in the front and 255 wide rubber in the back. This has been a very worthwhile modification, as the original 225/55 R16 rear tires, even with Bridgestone RE003 rubber made first and second gear difficult to utilize fully without breaking loose. I can now get off the line and give full power in dry conditions without loss of traction, which is very rewarding. Interior wise I have kept the car quite basic. It has full black leather seats robbed from a 540i which are in excellent condition, the dashboard is crack free and the AC blows cold after replacing a few aged components and re-gassing the system. Thanks to all the weight lost from the front end due to the combination of an all alloy engine and manual gearbox, turn in is brisk and the car changes direction with ease and feels very precise on windy roads. It does feel more like a comfortable 3 series than a 5 series when I compare it to E34s that I've driven with either six or eight cylinder power. The modifications that have been made to the 2.8L engine have resulted in enough power to really make the car scoot when needed, but not so much so that I can't enjoy revving it through the gears without losing my license. In all a pretty tidy package and I still enjoy owning 'Ronin' 8 years down the line.. I hope this wasn't too long a read...

Also paint or wrap the lower sill covers too. Black on white looks tits.

Free listing on trademe today so whacked it up https://www.trademe.co.nz/4568870502