kerrynzl

Early 250 Testarossa 250 GTO 206 SP Note they are competotion homologation specials,Why? Enzo Ferrari's main passion was racing [he built road cars to help finance his racing], You have to admire a Man who during the days of petrol rationing builds a front engined V12 F1 car then puts a sports car body on it [and paints it red] I'd also add to the list : 250 'california' spyder 365 GTB4 'daytona' The sound of six downdraft webers sucking air, and all those tappets going "snickety snick" [who needs a sound system] Hey JazzBass you're right about 'no such thing' with 'best car' questions! What is a Classic? Any Car that raises emotional interests of enthusiasts [my opinion] I've seen the humble old VW Kombi slowly become a classic [nostalgia for surfy's etc] I've yet to meet an enthusiast of the Austin Allegro [if I do,give me permission to throttle them Haha!]

First Class Spanking We Assume! Hahahaha!

Try Polishing the inside of your screen with 2'n'1 shampoo so it leaves a slight greasy film evenly all over [cheapest and most efficient windscreen anti-fog I've used]

Write a letter straight to LTSA complaining [they'll suspend the issuers licence, and you can seek compensation] Or take it back and get another WOF [you then let the opinions of 2 diferent authorities go head to head]

The Wiring Twisting should be easy for you with your skills mate [and those polygrips] I thought I was pretty good at wiring, but I still haven't figured out how to measure the Load Ratings of a wire using a vernier [see photo] I've got a spare 'auto' RHD pedal box you can have,if you need it!

If your car had a Legal Cert & WOF you can use this for your defence [as long as the vehicle wasn't tampered with] The Bumpstops are an easy issue to fix, but getting incriminated by the negligence of other authorities [VTNZ] is a different matter. You'll have to 'point the finger' at them to get out of this one. You can defend yourself in writing, but: 1: use facts [not emotion] 2: get your statement notorised [witnessed] by a JP or at the courthouse Remember you will still have to make your car legal, regardless of who is to blame Years ago I had a similar situation, I had a cop order my car home because of excessive noise. Which I ignored, and pissed off the Cop. The Car was a stock standard Charger R/T E38 Bathhurst Car [the exhausts had factory part numbers on it] There was no decibel reading back then, so noise levels were up to the discretion of the RedNeck Cop! Nowadays with permits etc,you actually have 'rights' under the law

Nothing has changed over the years with cars, Except the quality has got better. When I was younger......ish, I had witnessed some of the worst engineering nightmares ever! 332ci FE big-block ford V8 into a 100E anglia [with 9" drum brakes], Rambler V8 with the sump sitting on the crossmember of a MK3 Cortina [ front driveshaft yoke at a 35degree angle] etc Permitting allows you to modify the car within a higher engineering standard [like a WOF,if it's permitted it's allowed] Why spend $3k to $30k on mods, and try and save $300 on a permit? Face it "BLACKBMA" if your car was permitted and on the bumpstops, Then the permit was dodgy or you altered it after the permit. Another thing I've observed over the years is: For every nice/proper modified car out there, there will be dozens of "hangers-on" or "wannabe's" with unfinished or illegal pieces of sh*t trying to impress the "Real Car People" Just get your car legal, then you won't get harassed as much [harassment is a minor price for freedom and individualism] Harassment is also a by-product of stereotyping, Why [because most of the times these cars are illegal]

Even if you didn't touch a drop, Dunedin isn't safe Haha! Do your Maths, Home at 2.30 then post on BS at 9.30 =7 hours sleep [that's assuming you went straight to bed when you got home & posted on BS before you had breakfast etc]

Hey Gary, Take the car with you! Its about $1200 shipping Your car would be worth double that in Aussie [in Aussie $$, not Pacific Peso's]

Seeing that you dudes have those lovely german plates for your beemers! I thought I'd post a pic of my Yankee plates for my Corvette The Bolts are imperial [5/16 UNC}

Just remember when playing with advancing and retarding cams on a DOHCengines, the cam lobes are pointing down [on Ford/Chevy pushrod dinasours the lobes point up] The lobe separation is in the order of the 4 cycle engine [the intake follows the exhaust] some DOHC engines have the cams on opposite sides

Paint them with clear-coat! It reminds me of an early 'group A' car [looks great as they are]

Compared to an old Alfa or my Chevy these cams seem mild [but they are 4 valve] so the valves are smaller multiplied by 33% max lift means less lift is needed [pent roof or canted valves cover more area of the bore compared to 2 valve engines] because a modern 4 valve head flows so well,there isn't the need for huge duration [the main cause of piston/valve contact as well as cylinder pressure loses] If you picked up any American cam catalog you'll notice the "advertised" duration [or at .050"] is way less than the equivalent of say 25 years ago. Why, because modern Heads & Manifolds flow more air for the set amount of timing [static compressions have come down as well] Because you have increased the flow of your engine by using a 2.5 intake & different exhaust [dyno result attest to this] You could keep your engines static compression at 10.2:1 [the US spec S52B32 has a C/R of 10.5:1] The US engine has an intake with 10.3mm lift [256 duration] and exhaust with 9.7 lift [240 duration] from what I've read it's a bolt in conversion. Because the US M3 cams have longer duration it will open the valves earlier. I would recommend advancing the Exhaust and Retarding the Intake a couple of degrees [the dyno will help here] by increasing the "lobe separation" you'll increase top end power because of flow characteristics and increase bottom end power because of cylinder pressures retained.Closing the "lobe separation" increases Mid-range power! On Chevys,a drag engine has between 112 & 116 degrees separation, on a Dirt or Circuit engine it gets down to 105 degrees separation

The worst culprits are the new generation VW beetle owners [don't ask me why] They are fitted with High powered Euro Fog taillights [55-60W] [try following one] I don't know whether they switch on with the front Fogs,or if the drivers are on another planet. The problem with front Fogs isn't the height adjustment, but the power of them [they are designed to shine through fog after all] Also annoying is being tailgated by some idiot with their Fogs on, they dip their lights which switches the Fogs On It's illegal to follow someone on High-Beam [Fogs should be treated the same way] If a driver NEEDS to drive with the Fogs on in normal conditions [They should get their eyes tested] or not drive at all

Try following a car with euro fog taillights [60w high-beam in red] if they are not banned,they should be! As for your green sticker on your car, You deserved all you got! Driving your car on the bump stops with no suspension? There has been enough advice on this forum about how to lower your car the proper way. You chose to do it the F**kwit way If you can't tell the difference in handling of a solid car to a sprung car you shouldn't be driving at all Miller had a full set of H & R springs [60mm front & 35mm rear] for only $280 on this forum It is cheaper to lower your car properly, no pro would cut your springs So I assume you did it yourself [or with friends] so you are capable of installing H & R's by yourself

OK Ron. Cams and compression ratios go together to make cylinder pressure [High overlap Cams bleed off cylinder pressure so they need higher static ratios to compensate for this] Two cams [or pairs] can have the same lift & duration but different overlap [by varying the lobe centreline or "LOBE SEPARATION"] All M50's thru to the M3 engines have 33mm intake & 30.5mm exhaust valves A 33mm valve at 8.25mm lift has the same area under the circumference as the total area of the valve face. Flow benches show that lifting a valve to a height 33% of the diameter of the valve gives maximum flow [in some cases higher lift causes flow to reduce,usually it stays the same] US M3's have a 10.3mm in & 9.7mm ex. [10.89mm would be a max lift for this intake valve] all single vanos engines have 228 degrees duration & 9.0mm lift,but on the 2.8 engine the compression was lowered to 10.2:1 and the intake was retarded 5 degrees to reduce overlap to maintain [increase] cylinder pressure.combine this with the 2.0 intake ,longer stroke,higher diff [bMW built a very torquey down low,driver friendly stump puller.] For a hot street engine, I'd pull the head off and do a competition 3-angle valve job, deck the block [preferable] or the head to raise the compression,Then Advance the intake Cam! You can put hotter cams in later [incidentally the non-vanos intake has 240 degress duration & 9.7mm lift which is perfect for a hot exhaust setup] Also the latest trick Chevy setup from Comp-Cams in the states is........conical valve springs. Don't throw them out in favor of Dual springs [you want them to have low seat pressure,but high pressure "over the nose" of the cam]

OK Ron, Could a M50B20 cylinder head be used on a M52B28 successfully on a street car? For example: chucking a 2.8 shortblock into a 93-94 non EWS 320i

I know you're wanting a 5 series bentley. I posted an address where you could download an E36 bentley for free Do a search on this forum Cheers . . . Kerry

Hey Mate, When I use the words "Spread, Sheets, & Tits" in a sentence, It has a totally different meaning.Haha!

Do you mean a 328 shortblock? What top end are you planning on using? Also what DME, as the Siemens unit can't be reflashed to a larger engine? Hey, Keep me posted on yhis as I'm also considering a similar Mod!

Log onto the Trade-me link and read the questions [there are some serious buyers out there] This car is 18 years old and mint [E30's will go up in value as the perils of time make them scarce] We need cars like this to set the precedent for the rest I remember my brother getting $70grand for a 70 stang [everyone thought the buyer was crazy] Now they swap owners for over $100grand on a regular basis Time Will Tell

Especially a mint original one! You can restore a car many times over, But they are only original ONCE!

Generally Yes, But wait 'til some "buyers" express their interests in this car. What I'm trying to say is that all those "Expert" comments are from those who are probably in a totally different market [or not in it at all] If I was an E30 owner, I'd be trying to help manipulate the prices up [to help recover/justify the money spent on these cars]

When I was flogging cars years ago , we were constantly replacing oil pressure sender units on XF Falcoons [they were a Bosch unit] I'd say the senders are poorly made Don't overtighten them in [use teflon tape] they always leak around the plastic insulation

Insurance Loss Adjusters come from the cess-pit of humanity [they prey on people when they are at a moment of emotional upset] Get two or three quotes to repair this [try and use one of the insurance company's prefered repairers] Then take the Driver at fault straight to the Disputes tribunal for losses ASAP [Don't f**K about] They are insured, not you [the insurance company is insuring them against liability] I had a situation where an insurance company offered me $500 for approx $800 worth of damages So I sued the driver for the difference,who consequently claimed it from the insurance Co [the wankers should have paid me this in the first place] Get Aggresive with them, using the law