*Glenn*

Genuine E30 front disc pads are $90.44 + GST...retail

If your cigarette lighter is illuminated, use the earth and positive from the lighter (light) If its auto use the gate illumination light feed Otherwise use a test light, with park lights on check the sterio plug for a feed wire from the park lights (some E30's had a sterio illumination feed from park lights) Or you could take a feed off the park light switch Earths ( brown wires ) are everywhere Hope this helps Give me a call Cheers Glenn

I have one Will But unfortunately it's rego expired about 3 yrs ago I bought it for my new project and will be stripping out the parts I need soon Its an english 325I Coupe (auto) 1988 (Motronic) The motors rooted tho Has a full set of bilsteins ( for sale ) Full leather ( not sports ) no rips Mint cards No cracks in dash I just want the steering wheel, diff, rear subframe and some brackets and fittings....... so the rest I'll be selling If anyone needs anything off it ring me (09) 2722546 BTW it has 2 piece front rotors ( which I cant identify ) and different callipers & carriers with a full set of braided brake lines Cheers Glenn PS. I know its not what you are looking for...... but.....what the hell.... yours if you want it

If you cant do it yourself, its possibly uneconomic to get fixed. If the car is only worth $2,000, you could end up paying someone that much to fix it It's an 8 hr job Most independants charge around $70 per hour = $560 + GST + Head gasket set Head bolts Machining costs ( thats if the head isnt cracked) Antifreeze Spark plugs Maybe some sundries, like hose clips etc Price the parts and get a price to get the head done by a motor reconditioner Price a second hand head as well ( and add the machining cost against the second hand head as well ) Do the maths and then make your choice.......either sell as is on TM or get it fixed Hope this helps Cheers Glenn

Try this first Disconnect the battery ( remove battery if you are not sure ) Join both battery cables together and leave for 15 minutes Disconnect battery leads, refit battery and connect battery leads ( always connect + (positive) first, then the -(negative) This is called a battery reset and will clear most fault codes in early BMW's If the light stays on, you will then need it reset with a scanner, or something is still disconnected or damaged. Hope this helps Cheers Glenn

You will need to get it scanned and have the fault codes checked first before you do anything. Either by a dealer or a Technician who has a reliable scanner for BMW software Cheers Glenn

Any photos ??

Toys ( as in cars ) are like boats ( a hole in the water to pour money into ) The fun is the satisfaction of doing it, when you get good results..... and you get it right Research it more Maybe a M52B28 or an M30 3.5 litre (manual of course) Or you could do something that has never been done before in this country....like I did You cant do these types of things on a shoe string budget though...it never works out Mine owes me $15,000 without labour Cheers Glenn

Give Gavin Bellars a ring on (09) 4424451 Cheers Glenn

Looks real mean with those wheels on

The switches are only $75.00 plus GST and ten minutes to fit

Welcome back Will

You dont have to use ELF oil....thats just wot we use Engine : 15w40 semi or full synthetic G/box : G3 full synthetic Diff : 75w90 synthetic Antifreeze : Use BMW if you can or a non phosphorus antifreeze....do not use Prestone The rest of the bits could be a problem if people are closed tho Most places are open Monday tho Were closed till the 7th and I fly out of here on Monday Cheers Glenn

Membership fees ????

Seriously tho...I think its a good idea I'd like to contribute to it Cheers Glenn

I thought it meant: Its Slow It Leaks Its Abhorent It Breaksdown

Just wondered wether we should have these threads split up into categories ???? (1) Street (legal & WOF issues) (2) Daily rides ( mums shopping basket ) (3) Rally & track ( petrol heads ) (4) Concourse ( for the pretty people ) (5) Extreme ( over kill, for people with too much money to waste ) (6) Hoons ( temporary Kiwi's ) <<<< Just an old farts thoughts

Just a little add on here Noises can be a very difficult thing to advise on in a forum. Noises are interpreted quite differently by a driver & a technician. In most cases a good technician will know exactly what it is when hearing, and in some cases feeling it. If in doubt, find a good technician and get him to check it first. We could end up sending you on a wild goose chase by giving you advise in here. When diagnosing faults all our sensors are used, hearing, feel and sight. Noises will also react to different driving style and will respond to different loads put on the engine, g/box or vehicle. If your in doubt, dont start ripping things to pieces... get someone knowledgable to check it first Cheers Glenn

(1) & (2) sounds like exhasut manifold leak. Use new gaskets, studs & nuts... could also be a poor weld where it was modified (3) Adjust them (cold) directions in Bently (4) Remove balance weight from lever, the gearlever boot fowls the gearlever and prevents full gearlever travel (5) Manual gearboxes rattle in nuetral....its gear backlash...if in doubt, change the oil... use automatic G3 full synthetic ( yes I know its manual... auto trans oil is the correct oil ) (6) Not sure, would have to hear it... buy a cheap stethiscope and learn how to use it, to locate the noise Change your engine oil and filter.. use a good quality 15w40 oil ...we use ELF Use BMW antifreeze its cheap $15 for 1.5 litres, you need 2 bottles...I would also change the thermostat.... just to be on the safe side...these do fail Hope that helps Cheers Glenn

Very tidy conversion.... some thought has gone into it Welcome to the forum Cheers Glenn

It will need to be scanned... most likely passengers occupancy sensor But could also be either seat belt retractors or steering wheel squib ring ( clock spring ) I can do it for you if you like...scan it that is. We are very busy at the moment.... I could possibily fix it tomorrow for you tho. Would need to know this morning. Cheers Glenn

I've got the sports option box as well...can supply the switch & loom too Its still in a car I have here for a project I'm going to do I dont need the box.... offers ?? Cheers Glenn PS...I cant get it out before Xmas tho...... I dont think

Just a thought Helen will order them.........Keys will drive them.......maybe ??

In my previous thread I said "Compression pressure tells you frig all" I was relating to the original question...." how do you work out compression ratio" Pressure will tell you alot about engine condition (and yes I do know how to use a compression guage) but it cannot be used to work out compression ratio A high compression engine will have higher pressure, but you cant use that pressure figure to determine the ratio. The ratio can only be determined by measurements & maths to be accurate. and yes you can turbo and supercharge any engine with any compression ratio...but not effectively You wouldnt go to the trouble of spending thousands on fitting a turbo or supercharger on an engine and only being able to use .25 bar boost...... Ooops.....some people might The limits are controlled by boost over compression ratio. You cant boost a petrol engine at 1.5 bar using 10 or 11:1 compression ratio .....detonation will occur...and it will eventually go "BANG" Detonation is the killer Detonation will occur if the boost pressure is too high ( for the comp ratio ) and if the fuel mixture or igition timing is wrong. Fuel/air/boost ratio and ignition timing must be set up after building the engine. Detonation = The fuel / air mixture igniting under compression before it is ignited by the ignition system The knock or pinking ( detonation ) occurs while the piston is still trying to come up the bore ( before reaching TDC ). This damages the pistons. This will also occur in a NA engine if the ignition timing is too far advanced.

I have a really good one.... Ratio is 4.44:1 Its a small case for E30 318I Auto $150 and its yours I know its good...was out of my car Cheers Glenn