hotwire

Any decent radiator specialist will be able to confirm if it is at fault or not, hence why I say - get it checked to confirm. As far as replacement (if required) get a price from the radiator guy - it may well not be worth your while trying to source your own. Anti freeze, BMW product is best but Prestone is quite ok. The local radiator repairer here is really on to it & he uses Prestone. Be aware - there is crap stuff out there & does more harm than good. Yes it is a must to use inhibitor but I was more referring to the point that if an external leak - it should be visable

As Allan alludes to - most likely a flow problem & that likely to be radiator. That case reinforced by the fact that opening the heater tap helps the issue - allows more cooling effect via the heater core. I would though - get the radiator checked - a radiator specialist will be able to confirm if flow is a problem in it. Otherwise it is replacing on a whim. You need to also confirm - where is the water loss going to? Is there an external leak - you will be able to see it. I assume you are running antifreeze? Otherwise - leaking heater core - check carpets. Pressure test the cooling system. If no external leak then you likely still have an engine issue - water through combustion. Coolant level should not decrease at all. If it is - its going somewhere.

F##king arseholes. Lowlife is an understatement. Good luck with this Dave

E30 has the earlier white one as per my E12, not sure on the 36. E46 has the black one as in the thread

My E12 does too, Although it takes the older white version lamp

That is certainly NOT the case with all Jap imports (meaning BMW here) To tar them all with the same brush is rediculous. Not everyone wants a manual" Not all have "rooted" suspension Not all have "rubbish" tyres Not all have "rubbish" brakes Not all have "tired" engines The Jap market cars generally are better specced "more boxes ticked - Nav etc. Not so much now with near new cars as in the last few years the NZ spec cars have been higher than in years gone by where they used to generally be "poverty" spec Yes there will be cases of substandard cars out there, equally plenty of good examples with great bang for buck. Some Japs do service their cars, Equally, many kiwis don't, so the "NZ new" thing doesn't hold water. As mentioned - it is buyer beware, with any car. I bought our E39 in from Japan back in mid 2004. 24km, 4.5yrs old, documented service history, original 1/2 worn Michelin's, all 4 keys, and not a stone chip in sight! Came from Osaka, could have eaten your lunch from the underneath. Car has now done nearly 160km & has been virtually floorless in that time. Has had front rotors, front sway bar links, recently water pump & rear upper control links & a couple of slushy breather hoses . Has been serviced as it should. Even the Jap "slush box" is still fine. Yes the shocks are now getting a little passed their best (to be expected now) Apart from the usual BMW weaknesses - plastic cup holders/ seat bolsters etc, it has been a brilliant car so far. Sooo buy any car on its merits, after having it checked by someone in the know...

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/53576-parting-out-96-e38-735i/

Hardly for what it is....

Like what you've done with this Andy, Great to see the stereo looking period too

Yup, the same for most BMW's actually

Just took the m on a 650km round trip to New Plymouth from Wellington on a tank of gas...that's a pretty damn fine 33mpg for 105-110km/hr on the open road. So this was quite good economy for this E46 M3

And all cars/ wagons / hatches with a boot or tail gate

YUK!!!!!!! Just doesn't look right at all

Due to their relative rareness in NZ, price may be about right. Those E39 wheels though Couldn't wait to get them off ours when we first got it. They look even worse on that!

Firstly - 3yr old fuel is WELL past its use by, That really should have been the first thing to drain & replace. My race car with the same engine had been sitting for nearly half that time & the fuel was shot. It smelt crap, was just flammable enough to start the engine but it still ran like crap until I replaced it. I am surprised yours even started. As you allude to (after replacing the fuel) check spark & fuel flow, Both easy to do. It is likely to be something simple

Don't take it the wrong way Tim. Most replies to this post have been positive & virtually all advice has been correct - types of diagnostics, live data etc, knowledge etc. There are a multitude of pitfalls to fall into with one having no or limited knowledge & equipment to diagnose with. Incorrect codes, out of parameter codes etc I have seen this so many times at work where someone has has replaced parts on a whim or a fault code, only to end up with the car at work to fix the real problem. Glad you have it sorted though & you will now have a better understanding of things & no doubt be pleased that you sorted it yourself

I would virtually halve what he is asking for a somewhat bastardised car, allowing to spend money on resurecting. It would need to be an absolute mint original car to pay near 15k for.

Would hope you will seriously readdress his asking price. He is in noddy land with the car condition v his price. Good luck

M20's can be a bitch to bleed. Firstly - make sure the heater is set to hot. So as to allow water to bleed through the core Open the bleed screw. I 2/3 fill the system, start & allow to run up to temperature - thermostat open. I find this tends not to create air locks. Once up to temp - top up allowing any air to bleed out of the bleed screw. Recheck when cold. This always works for me

One more E12 in NZ that i didn't know of. They are VERY thin on the ground here now. Certainly from the shots it looks pretty clean/original

Why not pick up the phone & talk to Glenn since he is always helpful & willing with advice on here...

So, is that a new coil you have bought? I hope so, Otherwise you probably continue chasing your tail. With total respect, & i appreciate you may be wanting to familiarise yourself with diagnosing, this has been a long drawn out exercise to confirm a faulty coil.

There was an update on E39's in 09/98 so maybe a cluster change then - speculating here though....

And still the Audi sounds best me thinks!

^^^^ Be aware the antenna amplifier systems vary between old gen & new gen radios. There is no "Japanese " version post 09/01 - they are world tuner