hotwire

BMW dealers aren't necessarily skilled in A/C diagnosis. Many will outwork to an A/C specialist. BMW software will not diagnose A/C completely, it needs a knowledgeable A/C person to do so

It is surplus if you are running afterrmarket headunit

WOW!!!!! Oh to have all 3

Yep, was going to mention that myself, Definitely both required. That said, if the monitor has been replaced with aftermarket - the video module is now surplus too so both could be sold as an upgrade package. Pity it's not from an X5 - I have someone in need of one Edit, The OP will need to include the bezel too

No experience with that particular unit but it looks the same/similar to any other trailer module. Will not cause any issue to the car nor have any effect on insurance etc. The genuine modules are more complex - turning off rear PDC etc when trailer is connected.

Seriously WTF

Looks good Dave. Gotta say though - I'm in favour of the 16:9 screen over the 4:3. Changed ours in the E39 many years back. Did take a little getting used due to losing the wood trim to but i wouldn't go back now.

News to me on an E65. Is the case on E38/39/46/53 post 09/2001 vehicles though. Get in touch with Joe @ Euro Surgeon

This thread is a hoot - really. No wonder Glenn hasn't bothered adding to his original post! This is guessing/throwing parts at its best. Get the vehicle checked by an educated/ knowledgeable mechanic or sparky Fault codes on their own mean naff all & as can be seen in this thread - sending the uninitiated on a wild goose chase, an expensive one at that! Check live data, monitor sensor outputs back to DME This CANNOT be diagnosed over a forum! Edit - Lack of knowledge confirmed by the fact that you disconnected the temp gauge sensor rather than the DME unit

What spill the beans or keep his gob shut?

Auto sparky by trade but equally - years of mechanical experience too. Very blurred boundaries between the two now

Yep absolutely! I just suspect there is another reason for the temp issue. Do the pump first though. It is a matter of fixing the known issues first. Reminds me of a certain V8 Falcon sitting in our workshop. Have bloody near rebuilt the car it seems - one thing leading to 10 more Has done 450k though. Hopefully will leave tomorrow & stay away for a while.

Yes true but that wont cause an overheat. Unless it has spat out all the coolant or the impeller is not turning & pumping water. Both unlikely on yours I would think.

Yep, from memory my E12 has the 128 tooth belt - very early M20. I remember there was a variation when I replaced it years ago

Mine was much less than that but it was trade. Must say though - in this case - not necessarily convinced your water pump is the overheat cause though, Yes on the later units where the plastic impellers split & then slip. Cant say I have seen an M20 unit fail like that though. The leak will not cause this.

Dare I say - i did suggest you get the radiator checked by a radiator shop. I have used plenty of GMB units at work over the years without issue. When I found my E39 unit had failed on a Sunday arvo, & not having pre organised an OEM replacement, i went to Repco, had the choice of a Repco branded Chinese unit or a GMB at about $10 dearer. Closer inspection confirmed the Japanese GMB unit was too made in China Logic told me though - the GMB unit should still be better. Famous last words!

Well that is crap for the age of it. That said, the new GMB unit I fitted to my E39 lasted a week before leaking It had replaced the original that had done 150k before collapsing its bearing. Needless to say - I was NOT impressed!

Gauge check - that is merely telling you the gauge is operating to extremes - not that the temperature it is displaying is correct. I would be wanting to monitor actual temperatures at engine/radiator etc in relation to the to gauge readings & its variations. Did you have the heater on hot (tap open) when filling & bleeding? M20's can be a bitch to bleed for the unsuspecting. What I finds works - heater control to hot, bleed screw open, approx 2/3 fill the system, run engine up to temp (thermostat open) then gradually top up & shut off bleed screw once air stops. It can normally be bled in one hit. Recheck level when cold. If the heater was not open when you filled the system - i would highly suspect an airlock.

With respect Toby - you really are stabbing in the dark here. Will gave comprehensive testing procedures a few posts back. Off the top of my head: Water pump - unlikely Thermostat - maybe Air lock since refilling - maybe Cam timing - maybe Ign timing - maybe Crack - block/head - maybe Head gasket - maybe You cannot assume there are no issues with what has been done. It requires systematic diagnosis of all possibilities. I realize you are on a budget but if you don't have the resources to diagnose/fix, it might be a lot simpler to get it professionally checked. It will not be a major to diagnose Edit - how do you know the gauge is working correctly? the fact it goes from cold to hot by earthing/insulating the wire does not mean correct operation. What is the actual temperature? Also - is it still using water?

Definitely oil contamination. Looks like running rich too

Yep quite likely just a tired engine pump. I guess it could have had a retrofitted in tank low pressure pump installed but it would seem unlikely

Well considering the exchange rate at the minute - that's not bad pricing. Was much cheaper when i got mine a few years back. There are different circuits that fail in them, some not repairable (as mine was not) Surely the $380 you have been quoted to fix this one puts $700 into perspective. Word! The units have a habit of lying with their fault codes.

Graham - which car are you talking with the internal pump? E21 M20 carb, as the E12, have a mechanical engine mounted pump & will run at about 4-6 psi The E30 is Ljet & will be running an external high pressure electric at about 38 psi The later Motronic ran either low pressure in tank lift pump & external high or just internal high pressure

Is it not the original pump in it Graham? It would seem unlikely to have an incorrect pump fitted as it would be specific to fit the M20 My E12 still has the pump on it although it has not been connected or pumping fuel for years - since i converted it to Ljet. That said - the diaphram is probably buggered by now. I had meant to remove it & fit the blanking plate from a motronic engine, have just never got around to it.

Yes the 15" weaves would look better than the 14's too