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Everything posted by hotwire
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And a bit
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No increase to my knowledge. There was a guy in the States that did some testing of various makes/styles (inc K&N) & his results reaconed OEM version was better.
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Have just checked a head - timing mark on the head at about 2 o'clock. If you have lined it up to 12 o'clock as you say then it is wrong
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Technically the procedure is to disconnect but in reality have never had a problem in not & not likely to. As long as you are not fast charging.
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There is a later disc - PM me to clarify
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Cam sprocket at 12 O'clock? Stand to be corrected but off hand I am sure the cam timing mark is to the left of 12 o'clock - a mark on the head. As Glenn said - compression test??
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As with everyone else - Hooray!! Wondered what the hell had happened. Whats worse, my computer had crashed a few days before & I had no BS member emails on my laptop to check if it was my end or the other. Was begining to blame the laptop. Withdrawl symptoms over
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HB fella. Catch you next month!
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Do ign lights come on with key & stay on while cranking? If so - won't be ign switch
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From experience - they are noisier with straight pipe in place of cats. They tend to have a drone at certain revs too. As said in earlier post - entire system is designed accordingly. Cats, by nature of their makeup do act as a resonator. To remove cats & replace with fluted resonators virtually replicates the original noise level.
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Do both front & rear park lights come on (same side)? If so - indicator switch probably turned on to left. This is to night park & illuminate one side only - left or right depending on indicator switch position. Will turn off when key on.
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Yep, have them in mine & I reacon they suit well. Hope they dont have joins at the top like the dash pics show though.
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?????? Ditto & look at Dan's profile - think I see Black 540
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Depends on model alarm.
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With what youv'e done - Im not very optomistic that you have cured the problem. A dry joint is a dry joint & will not fix without resoldering - assumming infact that is the problem. If plugs are wet - it's either overfueling or lacking spark & variables for each.
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Firstly - do you know the model alarm? Sounds like boot is not connected to the alarm. Alarm is auto rearming (going back to previous state because it hasn't seen a door open). Remedy - connect boot switch circuit to alarm Sounds like system is set for auto arming (different to above "auto rearming") whereby activating 30 sec after last door shut. This function is programmable & pain in the arse when activated. Auto immobilisation - programmable on some As above - yes, but methods depend on model
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Yep Ive seen quite a few but not for a while & none in entirity. Good interesting series, he is certainly quite energetic with his presenting - seen a lot worse. Top Gear Aust comes to mind.
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Check the wreckers Dan. My E39 came in from Japan with a genuine one fitted (has edges too)
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or power supply to the pump (green/purple from memory) - check fuel pump relay
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Good on you guys - keep a lid on the crap
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Are you getting voltage TO the coil - inc when cranking? Doubt very much it will be a coil problem. Have you actually checked for spark? Pull coil lead off, hold near earth while cranking - spark? If so, recheck at plug lead
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Dunno -you said it! And, still dont see a hint of sarcasm. Dave summed you up perfectly
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Love to see where the hint of sarcasm is in this reply. Looks pretty clear cut to me
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I will gladly help anyone with a problem that I may have an answer to or maybe just a suggestion as to possible remedy. That said, I have also been known on many ocasions to advise (politely) that if I suspect the person does not have the skills/knowledge/tools to be able to fix a particular problem - then best to get it professionally diagnosed/ repaired. This because it is obvious to me that, for want of a better phraise, they are chasing their tales. This particually with regards to electrics. I, as Glenn, also tire of the repeated "same" queries - use the search first! Regards "can't afford" whoopee - join the real world. It does cost money to run a car!