M3AN

Yep, easy job to do yourself with some basic tools. It is an airbag out thing though (so you'll need to disconnect the battery and let the car 'discharge' for 20 mins before starting the job). Have a look at the "Rewire DIY" in this document: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cafxqdvwEhZP-LM4R4bxbrUDhNC_nd59/view Note that it may still be incorrect, I shared the following feedback with them about the instructions: So just do what I mention for the right side paddle instead. Also, ignore the LCI/Pre-LCI commentary in the document, that's for the US domestic market only.

Sent you a cheeky offer via PM.

Seats look epic mate, where did you get them done?

Dem some trick parts, and those wheels! 😎

I'm a little concerned this is even a question. All drivers should know these two things: Your speedo is wrong Live roadside speed indicators are wrong Always have been, always will be. And yes, probably the reason cars are banking up behind you when you think you're doing the limit.

I have two of the MSX5's, one in permanent 'tender' mode on my M3 and the other used for my 130 and they're brilliant for my needs. The M3 battery seems to love it and is still in perfect condition which, considering the engine only ever gets turned over once every few months, is a win in my books. I got these combo kits when they were less than the cost of the charger alone, the eyelet attachments and rubber bumper are genuinely good additions (the battery bank not so much). I paid $139 for each of them looking back, and coincidentally one in August of 2020, and the other in August of 2021... I wonder if they'll do a similar deal in August this year? Might be worth keeping an eye out if you can wait that long.

I removed the CDV from my M3, much like every other owner has, and would never go back. A CDV means you can never be precisely sure when the clutch will fully engage which is disconcerting and ultimately more difficult to drive, especially on or near the limit. Removing it does however mean that the clutch is less forgiving but once you have the necessary muscle memory that shouldn't be an issue. Having said this, even without the CDV you still have some 'room', it's hardly a 3-puck race clutch.

Hopefully a few of our Ōtautahi members can advise. Not sure if @Aaron still has eyes on the forum? He has a fair bit of ChCh BMW experience.

Indeed 101%! Now down to 91% full. 😇

You can get a genuine BMW one for $$$ (check my 130i thread) or measure the thread and get any AliExpress/eBay one that will fit.

@sweetm3 - Mark has done this w/cert.

FWIW, and as late as this is, I'm still happy 4.5 years into my Avin USA 10.25" dashtop unit ownership. It runs Android and automatically tethers to my phone so I don't need Android Auto, I have a full Android desktop and app store. I think mine is Android 10 or 11, not sure about upgrades so in 10 years or so I might be screwed. If you go this route get as much RAM as you can.

To be fair, most of those e46 'deficiencies' you mention aren't present on the e36 equivalent. I have a vested interest, I don't profess the following to be objective... I think the e36 M3 deserves just as much credit, if not more, than the e46 equivalent, it was the e36 after all that heralded in 15+ years of ridiculously successful chassis and engine architecture. The e36 M3 was revolutionary, the e46 M3 was simply, and certainly beautifully, evolutionary. The e36 M3 was the last truly analogue sports car BMW ever made, and a remarkable one at that, it deserves a top 5 position for sure.

I don't think it's about whether it's RHD or not, I think it's whether it's factory spec or not.

Meant to be driven, yes. And blue is gold on these things, a really great colour. You deserve a 'Sport' aerial, treat yourself.