Mike

I'm sure S/L kings are only 45mm drop. and I'm pretty sure mine was sitting way lower at 60mm than yours. I highly doubt 65mm would be captive in the back, probably just in the front.

i do agree with cain, you just gotta weigh up whether you value cash or your time, fingertips, and sanity.

depending on how far back you take the paint the paint you may need to use an etch primer if you go back to bare alloy. any car paint should be fine just make sure they are all compatable with the clear and primer and use a few coats of clear as brake dust is pretty harsh stuff. duplicolour make a special wheel paint but i haven't used that. you wont ever get the alloy back to chrome but you can polish them up quite nicely. really good write up: http://turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0030 little bit in here too: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=7991

not normally. in some rare cases you might hit the brake caliper. doesn't look quite right with the wheels sitting in so far though.

welcome, have you looked at importing yourself? some places to try... www.tunershop.com http://www.felgen-man.de/english/indexenglish.html http://www.18racing.com/wheel_slipstream.html - the slipstream is available in e30 fitment alpina reps (15, 16, 17) from http://www.abrahamsmotorsport.com/ also 16x7 BBS RS reps available, konig remembers. on ebay.com i think, not sure what proper shops sell em. there is stuff all in nz really that look good and fit properly but if your patient stuff does come up from time to time

i had the same issue too so I just made a new account, no idea what caused it and it never got working again properly.

yip, my tyre guy hates me though. they are a bit of a mission so not that many people can be bothered. some cars seem to need it more than others too. thing with these sorts of threads is everyone thinks they have the perfect setup. I'm no different, but have ran quite a few different springs so know what works best for me but it might not be the best for someone who is wants to fully sack it, or someone who just wants to improve handling.

maybe cv's?, and its incorrect tow as well that doesn't help the tyre wear. you can always flip tyres on the rims to get more out of them before i went adjustable my camber was really bad, almost like something was bent but on both sides. Wasn't that nice to drive, the outside of the tyres wasn't even touching the road and you could feel the tyre rolling over, and in the wet it was just dodgy. edit- cheers chris, i was never low enough to have cv issues but had heard of them

45mm is quite a decent drop, pretty much on the limit for keeping the rear springs captive. I've gone 60mm front and 40mm rear to get a better stance and i'll occasionally scrape my exhaust on bumpy roads if theres a few people in the car. I wouldn't go any lower but it looks sweet IMO and doesn't cause too many problems. old pic but same springs: 60mm all round puts it pretty much on the 100mm clearance rule and has it too low in the back, especially if you've got any sounds in the boot. You also start getting into serious camber problems going that low in the back

could change the gearing depending if you want more speed or acceleration. my old boss would be able to make a custom tuned exhaust for it but it would not be cheap, and that about the easiest way to get some more grunt out of it. You could play with the carb a bit but not to sure what needle and jet availablilty would be like.

been said heaps before but generally 17's look to big on an e30 unless its an M3 or got a 'tec2 kit. that said the 17" alpina reps do look quite good for 17's, so do the schnitzer reps on will's vert

Why have you gone with a link as opposed to the stock ecu? just to get more grunt out of it or got something else planned down the track? also what have you done about improving the rest of the drivetrain? just I can't see the stock cv's etc lasting too long with the torque that thing will be making?

How'd you go about wiring it it? did you reuse most of the stock loom or build a new one. Over the next few weeks I'm about to install one into a M10 318i, which uses the same L-jet system as yours. I was going to make an adapter but I've found that there is actually very little I can use, the power will need to be re-wired along with the injectors as they all fire simultaneously. I'm using a TPS from a E34 525i with an M50, plugs straight in but I'll need to make a small adpater to mounts it. There is a TPS from early E34 with autos I think that is both a switch and variable style and that mounts straight up.

Yip, it was rich down low, maybe a tad lean up top. I knew I wanted around 0.6 Bar boost so I just got injectors around 60% bigger. Biggest downside to this approach for a low boost setup was the fuel economy and it would only be safe for low boost. If I didn't have plans for ECU I would have brought an RRFPR and maybe a BTM too but it wasn't worth it as a temporary solution. If I hadn't got greedy and kept bumping the boost I'm pretty sure it would work long term at around 0.5 Bar. I never got the chance to dyno it with that setup, will get a few over summer with the MS in though. Steel was just steam pipe from steel and tube, was 3-4mm or something? its f**king heavy anyway and isn't gonna crack in a hurry. Sandman, good point. gotta admit I forgot about that rubber in there. Has been ok on some pretty long drives but will get some on there when I get the manifold planed.

welcome, you haven't thought about sticking a 2.7 bottom end on it? It could work really well with that H23 head. oh, more pics too please

Bigger sways will probably make the problem worse, they keep the car flat by effectively trying to lift the other wheels, you could try a larger front swaybar, but that will increase understeer.

I'm not so sure about that, cars are much more expensive in aus as they have strict import laws to protect the local car industry

Haha I know your pain, try getting machine marks out of 4 wheel lips worth it in the end tho, its looking pretty cool

I can only see clockwise but I'm pretty sure I'm more left brain going off those attributes

I realise a filthy old M10 is completely different to an S50 but I still noticed a significant power loss with a thicker MLS gasket without the boost to make up for it.

^ yea could have started with any old e30 and done whats josh is doing, still awesome.

as a 20 year old I had insurance for my 318i turbo for $140/year 3rd party fire & theft with AMI. Thing is I started stock and as I modded it they never really said much about it.

So should I get one of the mods to shift my turbo project thread into here or just start a new one without all the extra posts in it? I not bothered either way.

i'm annoyed i missed it too, looks like some pretty cool cars there anyone know the route they took for the drive?

I know what you mean, adjustable cam sprocket to slightly advance or retard cam timing? Not sure where to find them tho, have a search on r3v or e30tech