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greenday-rulz21

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Everything posted by greenday-rulz21

  1. After changing the oil for your car, the oil service light stays on (on the red) and it becomes very annoying to you sometimes. It makes me upset just to see it like that, so I wanted to find out how this creature is reset. It turned out that the procedure is very simple and it doesn’t need time, money or even special equipment. Well, only a paperclip ;-). The following article will show you how this thing is done within couple minutes. BTW, I didn’t write this article. I found it here in case you want to read it. Ready? Ok here we go . . . Disclaimer: Use this procedure at your own risk!! I’m not responsible for your mistakes man! First, pop your hood and find the diagnostic data port. It is located on the right side of the engine bay near the right strut tower. Unscrew the cap. You will see a big Pac-Man shaped hole and twenty little round holes. What is a Pac-Man? Never mind. We are only concerned with pin 7 and pin 19 (note: the words "pin" and "hole" are used interchangeably in this text). Refer to the picture below to find pins 7 and 19. What we will be doing in this exercise is connecting pins 7 and 19 with a paperclip for four seconds. This will reset the oil service light. Simple, no? But first, here is the list of pins and what they are supposed to do: Pin Terminal Description 1 TD TD Signal 2 - Not occupied 3 - Not occupied 4 - Not occupied 5 - Not occupied 6 - Not occupied 7 SI Service Interval Reset 8 - Not occupied 9 - Not occupied 10 - Not occupied 11 - Not occupied 12 61 (D+) Generator Charge Indicator 13 - Not occupied 14 30 Voltage; Hot At All Times 15 RXD Diagnostic Data Link 16 15S Voltage; Ignition Switch in Run 17 - Not occupied 18 PGSP Programming Line 19 31 Ground 20 TXD Diagnostic Data Link OK, using a paperclip, Bend your paperclip it so it looks like this: Well it doesn’t have to look exactly like this, but you get the idea. Use pliers if you have to. We want those little loops at the end to maximize the contact with the conductors in the holes of the data port. If you can’t make those little loops at the ends, that’s okay. Just don’t go running around with sharp objects. OK, now you’re ready to reset the oil service light, so turn the ignition key to position II, but don’t start the car. Get out of the car and go to the data port. Always connect pin 7 first. Once you’ve inserted one end into pin 7, insert the other end into pin 19 and hold it there for 4 seconds. Then remove the paperclip. Check the dash and the oil inspection lights should be reset. The reset occurs upon removal of the clip. IMPORTANT: DO NOT HOLD IT THERE FOR LONGER THAN 10 SECONDS or you may inadvertently reset your inspection I/II interval. OK, you’re done. It was pretty easy as I promised! Wasn’t it?
  2. Haha, fantastic Mark! Soo keen!
  3. Not really mate, they perform just as well as the stock bulb. Even better in some cases. Although they don't give a lot more light. There are many options in Repco. They've got +50 ranges which put out a lot more light but bulb life is less. Just from changing the bulb. 1 minute job. Have a slight bluish tinge in real view.From memory they retail about $80 for a pair of main bulbs and a pair of parks. Cheers btw
  4. Narva Ultra Blue 5000k from Repco. Looksy at my sig.
  5. Haha. Still think the dished look is mint. But of course depends on the design of the wheel.
  6. Its on the steep side for the amount of info given! Jeez. You wonder if some people really want to sell a car.
  7. I can say they are a frickin amazing invention. Interested as well.
  8. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....aded&start=
  9. They are nice. I think there'd be others id think about before those for 2.5k though IMO. Although Work wheels are pretty much all wow.
  10. Haha, yea i did! I realize it would be expensive. Would be interesting to see a quote on a job like that.
  11. Are you sure mate? (I'm not meaning to be annoying) Brugar engineering.
  12. Thats not really right. Mines a '99 with the EWS system. It is fully alarmed. Tilt sensor, interior sensors, alarm + of course the immobilizer.
  13. Sorry mate, forgot the most important part haha. 3rd party. But thats including all the other bits and pieces as well. Expecting it to be approx. $400 when I get my full in a few months. Also got defensive driving under my belt now, and its down as a e46 instead of an e36 I think - so I really need to call up and get it revised.
  14. The only place I can recommend is Vero. I am 16 (nearly 17), on my restricted, drive a '99 323 manual coupe and pay $550 a year. Dayum!
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