slowe30

http://www.jomcoilovers.com/JOM-Coilovers-...Series-E30.html these were quite good when i was searching round for some a while back and just because they are cheap dosnt mean they are crap. can go very low in the front and all up to your door works out to be something like $400. some people were saying as you go very low it gets a bit bumpy but i think thats due to lack of shock travel at that height and the suspension geometry. all up everything i read about these was good, no bad feed back found apart from above

i used a hack saw then cleaned up the ends with a grinder, got them flush and had as much of the head on it as possible. it worked fine but went to take them back off after about 7 months and the bolts arnt moving. i did have another set of bolts with a spline thread that i had to use for one and that was the easiest of the lot to remove. all i can say is be carefull,the bolts will be a pain and paint the spacers black as im guessing you wont be certing it straight away.

in urgent need of a driveshaft bolt, one of the front ones that bolts the gulibo to the shaft/gearbox for an m52, anyone know where to buy new or have one lying round. car needs to be working on friday and cant find one of them also not quite as importing but still needed are the covers for the terminal block like the ones in this picture. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1996-BMW-328I-E36-P...q-hg~~60_35.JPG i have the block its self but want the covers to make it look right and prevent it from shorting out.

i got an e30 with an m52b28 in it, and the thing goes like a little cut cat, diff ratios to long IMO but has enough torque to overcome that, its in peices for another round of upgrades at the moment but the m50/m52 engines are a great starting point for anything. i spent a bit more than 1.5g getting mine running but had different issues to get past than what an m50 has. Once i had all the parts that i thought i needed for it, it only took 3 weeks till i went for my first drive with it, and that included a new medium case lsd diff install(replacing the small case it had), e36 rack conversion and waiting a few days for the exhaust shop to be avalible to 'move' the manifold away from my new rack setup. and best of all, all parts i used for my engine conversion are bmw parts, just gotta get the right things and everything fit perfectly. no custom work was needed at all except for that exhaust tweak, which was so small it was free.

ive got decent fluid, stainless lines, 944 porshe brake booster (to clear m52), fancy and new pads all round and rx7 front calipers and still has a soft pedal for a bit then is fairly solid and bites from there. does anyone know if theres any bushes in the brake pedal setup that goes across to the other side of the car? i think there may be some play comming from there. brakes are noticlbly better than what they used to be but not sure if the old ones were just useless

why do so many run with no doors, like your first video and this one, also heres one nutty ass e30

the mounting holes and slots for the rear swaybar will most likely be covered in under seal, didnt see mine to start with then started scraping and eventually got there. and check what size the photos are, 800x600 is the biggest you can upload

from what i was hearing i know the oil pressure was low, started to knock and tick. i saw alot of people have been replacing the sensor and fixing the light comming on with my google searches, nothing that actually dropped oil pressure. it will be checked out tomorrow morning by another friend due to it being at his house and me not being able to get there

a friend has recently brought a e30 318i pre facelift and while driving round today the oil pressure light came on, immidiatly we stopped and checked the level, was good, then let it sit for a bit started it up and after about 10 seconds oil pressure was ok and everything seamed normal. ive tried searching for it but couldnt find anything about it, just wondering if theres a common failiure part or issue with these engines so i know where to start looking

damit, if he doesnt take them, pm me, ill take them for sure

you need a driveshaft from a m20 g240 set up,which will most likely be a 320i. the 6 cylinder boxs use shorter shafts due to engine sticking one cylinder further back and forward. if the car you get it from had a small case diff, loosen the big nut in the middle of the shaft and shorten it to suit

just pulled the sub frame out the back of the car, wasnt as bad as many people were saying. i was expecting it to be alot harder and everything to be more stuck and rusted that it was. i undid the reinforcing plate and the nut holding the subframe bushes in and the bush fell down as i backed of the nut but something that did make everything easier, i jacked the back up yesterday and sprayed crc on every bolt i thought id have to undo and sprayed alot around the subframe bushes. also confirmed why the back felt like a bit of a boat on heavy braking, the bushes were knackered, had splits right down both sides on both bushes pics to come tomorrow, got work in the morning (6 day weeks ) but will be back into it after that

"the car must be up to wof standard" damit im out, no wof no reg and no cert for m52 setup

he has m3 front brakes on his e30, with the 5 stud conversion

ok good, my dad was using it for a while going to the airport and back daily from the shore and thats what he was getting, would go 2 or 3 times out during the week to like the supermarket and stuff and the rest was motorways i havent kept an eye on it cus no matter what it is, its better than my e30 but it just got me curious. btw its and auto and completely standard and staying that way (using it as my daily, if its manual i know ill rev it out and have fun with it ) anyways cheers for the replys

i was searching around a while back and only on i could find was with ray at hellbm, well only one with a decent ratio. and what skid days on?? can you link me it??

whats everyone getting fuel usage wise in 328i e36s. just got one recently and just wondering if its normal, best i have got is 9.2l per 100ks (averaged out over the whole tank). but more commonly sits around 10l per 100ks. is this normal or is there a knackered sensor. (note no engine light is on, car runs fine) cheers for any info anyone has

facelift e30 318s had the thermo switches too, ill check if i still have any spare.

zender sides and back, and a IS front. have spoiler aswell but wasnt to keen on it, liked the little rubber thing better

tried these out on it ps, im not the biggest fan of just keeping period wheels on e30s. as you can probly tell. rebuilding the rear end very soon, including all bushes in 75d derilin, whiteline adjustable swaybar, and 325i subframe, axles and trailing arms. it should be comming back out earily october and hopefully going to happy enough with how it drives to finally get some track time in it

plus one to that idea, but can we organise it to be halfway through october or later? still tidying some things up before i want to get it back out

i had the same issue with mine but was putting an m52 in it, after looking through lots of wiring diagrams i found all the wires were grounded in the same spot (near passengers seat apparently), never found the spot, just pulled the fuse box apart, found the other end of the wire and made my own grounding point near the shock tower. just something to keep in mind if anything like this happens again. my fan now blows better than it ever did aswell, and windows seam to have more power

what is the manufactures spec on factory e30 camber? i need to get my car certed (probly wont happen for a year or so due to it not actually being used atm, its in an upgrade stage) but this new cert law is something i will have an issue with, due to it being half a degree more than stock im going to see is the camber bushes will allow enough of a change or if the weld on plates will be needed.

when the ecu detect a fault or miss reading from a sensor it stores a code and reverts back to a basic fuel map which usually uses more fuel. clearing these codes, or much much better reading them and replacing what it reported as bad, will put it back into its normal running mode and use less fuel. but as a guess e30s might be a little before the time of storing codes and going to a basic fuel map. i know my e30 m40 wouldnt have as it didnt have o2 sensors in the exhaust to read the air fuel ratio, so it wouldnt be able to correct it as it didnt know it. not sure if m20s had o2 sensors tho. some m50s didnt have them either and m52s have 2, one in each bank of 3 cylinders