Allanw

It shoudl have changed to something easter related on January 1st, like the displays at The Warehouse.

Looks tidy enough, especially for $500! The 523i was badged 525i for the japanese market, because image is important It's still 2.5, but they were detuned a bit, so as not to compete with the 528i. They're a bit bit sluggish off the line, but not too bad once moving... though you should see how a 540i goes - a whole different league! Welcome!

Mmmmm... good space for getting my 3 boys in and out of carseats...

13.5 hours yesterday... then called back after a 2 hour "rest" - 16.5 hours charged... I start at 6am It was all fixed ready for today. No thanks thanks from those who caused the problems, but plenty of thanks from those who got blamed by them!

You should install a complex liquid cooling system, running under a great pressure, and use lots of economical plastic to do it.

Micheal has got those RS4 mufflers with the flapper valves in them You have have louder or quiet, with a switch flip

I'd like a really good (manual) 728i. They aren't as slow as most people assume, really. It's just the next sensible option is the 740i, which is a big jump in grunt! They're probably fairly comparable to a 523i, which is no rocketship, but can get out of it's own way at least. Apparently a manual trans Sport 728i is not too shabby - better diff ratio (UK spec anyway), and I'm sure the manual box livens them up - our 525i is quite a different car to an auto one, but you do have to wiggle the stick sometimes

For Sale on Trade Me: Damaged Hayabusa Mint Yugo Duct Tape

They're mostly VERY buffered, certainly for the M52TU, and M54 E39's (and E46's) They usually read "normal" (straight up and down) from 75C to 115C, I've set it to 87C to 103C now, so if it starts to get hot, the gauge slowly moves - rather than keeping the info from the driver, I can see if it starts to warm up, and adjust driving to suit. With the stock gauge, they usually show "normal", then suddenly shoots up, once it's too hot. They also read normal, with a poked thermostat, keeping it too cool, running at 80C, the M54 eats fuel still, but you don't know it's cool. They're a pain in the arse - especially for people who think "It's not pegged in the red yet, so it's OK"

Changed the eeprom .bin for the lying-bastard stock E39 temp gauge. Now shows something like what the engine temps actually are, instead of being about as useful as those blue and red light things on newer cars. Can share info soon, for others interested - found stuff on some US sites etc, and deciphered the info from the bollocks.

Still cheaper than a D4D Hilux injector , and required less often!

I have a mate who used to run crystal meth, while on his bike. (Somehow, he survived, grew out of it, and got old!)

Christchurch - It's got a loooooong drive to it's new home! So do I! Would have been great to see it nearby, but I think it'll be safe

I believe so. I think the price filtered out those who were going to screw it over - It's one of those cars that will always be worth good money, as long as it's left alone, looked after and respected. It's honestly been an amazing little car.

SOLD Sniff, sniff...

Use the jack and push method :-) Did that to a guy parked in Dads shop carpack once. jack the car up, push backwards off the jack (scissor jacks are good, or a trolley jack on hard surfaces). Repeat until moved far enough. We left the guy parked on the roadside..... shop was opposite the cop shop, wasn't there the next morning, but we got the chains up to lock off the carpark - The guy should be grateful we didn't chain him IN

This is a great example of a statistic that means diddly-squat, by itself. Just like how the mortality rate in NZ has continually climbed since the introduction of margarine. What can we conclude from it?

People always say this, but you've got that torque being pumped out at low RPM, so every "Bang" has to be so much bigger, so the stresses are much higher, especially in a turbocharged engine vs an NA engine. If you have a load on, you're better to change down to increase the revs a bit, to reduce the stresses. Doubling the engine speed, for the same torque requirement, substantially reduces the force required for each power stroke.

Hehe - that was actually at the end of the cambelt replacement, so it was still to be filled with coolant, and the cover was just going back on :-)

Those bolts were regarded as a "common" failure not too many years ago. It was a "thing" to look for, and change to the later type, in the early days on the M20 engines.

On Trade Me now... ... looking forward to all the sensible questions from genuinely interested parties... https://www.bidbud.co.nz/1012463877 http://www.trademe.co.nz/1012463877

Looks good! I'll give you what you paid, plus $500

From those 2 pics... the Merc won! Bahaha! I Seriously had a giggle! Well Done!

GMV is the Max loaded weight, with driver passengers luggage etc - the manufacturers maximum operating limit for the vehicle.

The rode code does say: You must drive at a safe speed. This means that: on a road with lanes, you must be able to stop in the length of clear road you can see in front of you on a road with no lanes, you must be able to stop in half the length of clear road you can see in front of you. Which technically means you should always be able to stop before you hit anything that's already on the road. We know you have to actually see the stuff before you take action though (which you must account for), but this rule technically makes it ALWAYS your fault Which technically means you end up driving WELL under the speed limit on some roads (like mine - super hilly and winding) but they still bother to make it a 100 limit.