Allanw

Depends if the go switch is up or down...

Maybe showing off the DSC???

http://www.bidbud.co.nz/752153142

Is it the same guy? In your car???

Should have realised from the user name I didn't take part on NASUbarus much, but have had a few of them... and still have an EJ25 in my VW bus... but that'll be an EZ one day too... hopefully a 3.6, but more likely a 3.0. Welcome, anyway!

+1 there. We used them when required, and were absolutly stunned with the service - you don't get some retarded stoned munter who you don't even like LOOKING at your car "looking after" it while you're away. A lot of the places use peoples cars to pickup and drop off (even when it's not the owner sometimes!) Aeropark has dedicated shuttles. I used Aeropark, and the car was in EXACTLY the same place as when we parked it... I'm not even sure we had to leave the keys with them??? (could be dreaming though?) A lot of the reason for their "professionalism" is because the staff are often long termers, and/or are involved in the charitible part of the company - because they are passionate about the Charity, they are professional in their work.

Suggestion: M54's have been known to strip headbolt threads in the block... Usually after over heating though. If it were me, I'd timesert all the headbolt holes (I'd ONLY use Timeserts too - NOT helicoils (which can expand on the way out, and destroy the block, if you ever have to get the head off again)). You can buy the kit (but it's about $500, though you can put about $40 worth of inserts back in, and sell the kit afterwards), or find a machine shop that has one - Someone in Auckland will have one, Shirley

Man - I hope there is some advantage in this for you! Sounds like a LOT of work! Just getting your own parts in cheaply doesn't sound like much reward! Shipping big stuff from the US is (usually) so ridiculously expensive. I wanted to buy a pair of brake pressure switches (under US$20) and shipping was going to be US$54!!!! Then on the other hand, I just ordered some goodies, and a COMPLETE gearbox rebuild kit for the Model A (everything but the case: bearings, shafts, gears, clutch, universal, etc) and shipping was "only" US$180 ish. I was surprised - I was expecting them to email saying shipping was actually US$400 or something stupid. Maybe if I find a cheap M54 supercharger, I'll need to PM you

Auction is up in 20 mins Anyone keen to bid? My mrs would kill me !

BAHAHAHAHA! Sounds like Ripco! I got one in an emergency from Partmaster up here, was in stock, I seem to recall it being $20-something! It's been in for years now too!

Is buying, licensing, WOFing, insuring and maintaining a whole extra car going to save you anything at all??? What economy are you getting now? How many kms are you really doing each week? Someone doing 15K per year at 15L/100kms spends $5175 per year, buying another car, that does 10L/100kms costs $3450 per year. So the replacement car would have to cost $1725 per year to buy maintain, WOF, License, insure, maintain, JUST to break even! If you're in AKL traffic, anything that costs $2K probably isn't going to do much better than 10L/100kms. Buy an electric bike for the bits where you don't need a car Mine costs less than $0.30 per week in electricity to do 100 kms of commuting, plus I get a work out, and only spend about an hour extra per week. No gym fees

Well done! Is it as nice as it looks?

Are you sure it's the wheel bolts? If so, the BBSs must have a recess in the back to clear them (fairly common on some wheels). Otherwise, it can be wrong centre bore on the adapter for the wheels. You want to use the correct bore if they don't match. A decent machinist should be able to shorten the wheel bolts, but make sure they're still safe afterwards.

Sounds like you have bolt on "adapters", yes? You bolt them on, then the wheel bolts on to the adapter? You may be able to machine the heads down, but you can also get low profile bolts. I've got a set, but they're 14mm, I assume you're will be 12mm??

Why do they break the quarterlight? is it BECAUSE it's the hardest to fix, most expensive and most difficult to source??? Bummer dude - at least the car is still there

Shows what he knows... Ask my wife... she'll go

You could take off the rocker cover, and see what's happening. It may be a valve held open, but I don't know if the hydraulic lifters had that much travel (Though I'd never actually paid attention to the lifters!) Don't try too hard yet hopefully nobody dropped anything in a sparkplug hole

Yes - after that they have to be "adapters", but 27mm is the max allowed anyway.

The buyer should change the ownership BEFORE collecting the car and show evidence to the seller, and the seller sends in the sellers part to confirm it it an honest change. I always do it online and change it for the buyer too - complete the whole lot and protect myself! http://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicle/registration-licensing/buying-selling.html http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/factsheets/41/buying-and-selling.html

5 series wheels on an E36 already stick way out, spacers will make them FURTHER out - like Qube says. Spacer/adapter rules: http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/

I put RE002's on the E39. While it's not a powerhouse, there are certain places the traction control had to work hard with the old tyres in the wet. With the Potenzas, it comes on FAR less, even with provocation! They're a very good tyre for the price - they pretty cheap (I think ours were just over $900 for the set). When Dads E30 is due, I'll tell him to get these too - he always wants good wet performance for the rare occasions that Mum drives They're not the quietest of tyres, but are by no means loud, and don't have variation in the noise at certain speeds like some directional tyres seem to have (some seem to get rumbles or resonances). I don't know about the Falken at all, but I'd go the RE002, just because I'm very happy with them. The Tread pattern does look good - not too chunky on the edges (some tyres look like 4WD tyres!) and being assymetric, you can rotate them around easily, if you're into that.

Just checking..... you remember left-hand thread... right? You're hitting towards the passenger side? right? Left?

anything is repairable (with enough skill/money etc). I once brought a Suzuki Van for Dad with a run big end... the guy who I brought it off (it was his Dairy van) went to all the effort of stripping the engine down, put a new pair of bearing shells in, then sealed EVERYTHING back together with red silicone. Including the head gasket. When he fitted the new bearing shells, not only did he not clean up/grind the crank, but he left the old shells in with it!!!! It didn't run too quietly! So we had a crank that had worn about 5mm off the journal, and was a lovely blue colour. We had the crank spray-welded up to the right diameter and then ground it back to the right size. Worst case is something similar for the S62, but I'd have thought like said above - grind to suit oversize shells and reassemble (with a supercharger for efficiency and safety etc).

You guys don't have picnic tables either though.

Even more proof. Get a life.