Allanw

It all depends on the size of your wallet Don't rely on an E39 temperature gauge. It'll read bang on straight up and down from 65 or 70C to about 115C (or even higher!). By the time it registered an engine getting hot, it's almost too late! It pays to check the KTMP in the secret OBC menu to see what temp the engine is running at. Sounds like a good list. When you get to cooling, you may find the bottom of the radiator bowed out (!), the water pump may need doing, depending on your kms. Shocks and suspension bushes don't last very long (our front shocks were 100% rooted at 115K, and probably had been for quite a while). Worn front shocks can cause bottoming, which bends the front shock towers. Easy to fix though. Good to change any of the "lifetime" fill oils too!

Yeah... plus we all know: Never buy the first year of a new BMW model - They haven't ironed out all the bugs yet!

I wouldn't be 100% convinced of the sump gasket, though they have been known to fail. The oil filter housing and power steering reservoir can both leak down to there. Our was pretty wet over the sump, but doing these two sorted it out. The sump can always be done at the next service, if it is still leaking (unless is a real gusher (unlikely)). That oil spreads a LONG way! Vanos seals are a good idea! http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/39809-vanos-seal-replacement-done/page-2?hl=%2Bvanos+%2Bseals+%2Bdone%26%2333%3B#entry446648 Do the two belts and tensioners too - the bearings in them get rattley and can destroy themselves (at least check them). Check the DISA valve in the intake - only takes 2 mins to get out, and it can destroy an engine if it comes apart. And remember the cooling system can have issues. You want to scan for codes, because if the thermostat heater element has burned out, the engine will run hot all the time, and not run at lower temps when under load (The ECU/DME usually controls the temp via this).

Along with that airbag! I've taken two weeks off over Christmas - bring them up... we're less liekly to hit someone up here I know some people who can help with the wounds too.

WOW!

There's a chance you'll get "cold check" strobing - no warnings, but they lights will flash a few times at startup, and then every so often when driving along. A lot of people don't know they do it (I only discovered it by accident, on the first day - a couple of cars waved at us blankly, then at home in the dark, I restarted the car and saw the "dance" side to side) Some LED's do it, some don't. It seems a lot do. You CANNOT code out the cold checks on an E39, unless you have an LCM4, which was only fitted to some very late E39's (You can fit one though, either from an E39, or an E53 X5). I fitted an X5 one and coded it to suit. There are cheaper ones around too, though those ones say they are 10W. I think mine are 6W, but were a lot cheaper and do strobe with the later LCM.

"don’t think rear tyres will pass next wof"

Good luck! At least I've seen inside one now!

Am I ready this right??? $15 an hour is $31200p.a. Anybody being paid $15 and hour is NEVER EVER going to touch my car. A decent trained mechanic is making a LOT more than $15. The business owner also has to pay holidays and sick leave, plus public holidays. It all adds up. If you want to get really serious about charge out rates - When I was 19 (16 years ago) I was being charged out at $90 to $135 per hour for a technical repair type job, I got got a car and crap pay! Now I don't get charged out at all, and make a lot more

Shhhhhhhhh! I'm trying to think positively about it! It's one of those things I knew would happen one day anyway.

I rented a Z3 in Auckland many years ago (I was 19 I think!). They're nice cars to drive! My rental was supposed to be a red 1.9 manual, but ended up being a light blue 1.9 auto... Still went really well though. There's lot of people on here who know enough to keep you out of trouble. Euro cars aren't as expensive to look after as most people seem to think - lots of the horror stories are because owners take them to garages or "mates" who think they know what they are doing, but have no idea! Watch out for that! Looks to be a nice car. Well done!

It's awesome? "Could be the BARGAIN of the year" too, apparenlty

Same cable. Ebay has cables - I prefer the tape on ones, not the T-solder ones. I juast taped it in place, then added a spacer for more pressure and it was mint, except fot one line... but it fixed itself a month or so back

I've never opened one, but does NOT look normal - Looks like a previous repair to me! That's hand soldered connections, not factory done. I recently had the Christmas tree lights too (ABS/DSC/traction) a few times a week. Codes showed voltage issue with right rear, and left rear on different occasions. The indicators stopped working ONE time, and were fine ever since. This was about 3 weeks ago. I installed a brand new ignition switch (cos they're actually really crappy and cause a LOT of weird issues) and have had no problems for the last 3 weeks Hopefully it stays that way! I thought I was going to be up for a new module too. I have since fitted a heatsheild beside the module (before problems would be sensible ), but I don't know if it will help or not - the abs still gets REALLY hot, because when you're stopped, the whole engine bay stays hot. Anyway - keep us up to date with how it goes.

Bummer! All I know, is that you do NOT want to use the wrong type O-rings. Supposedly, BMW still use the wrong kind in replacement units. I guess if they update to the correct type they'd have to admit a mistake, and there's be all sorts of costs involved.

Buy first Buy second I'd buy here though http://www.cable-shack.co.uk/ (actually, I did - he lists on ebay too though). Jimmy reads another forum I read. But if you're really into fiddling, you want BOTH!!! I have both of them, and BMW scanner is VERY good for plugging in and doing quick things - far easier to use and very quick to set up. I even used to to change some of the xenon light settings after I fitted a genuine retrofit kit. I've changed the litres of fuel used before oil service due warnings, change light settings (angel eyes blink with indicators etc. The SSS/DIS/NCS can be used for more in depth stuff, such as more complicated retrofits and settinngs. You can even change the ZCS etc. If you install WinKFP you can update DME software etc too. If I can the M54B25 to a B30, I can just load the DME software and go . Be sure to check compatibility with your car and PC though

Weird, isn't it? I don't know why they don't have a switch to choose! Or one of each The new VW Transporter we got only has one outlet in the cab that's permanent on. You'd think they'd have more in a new car - I had to make some more - we use 4 every time we're in the Van. Seems a bit cheap for a $70K+ (modern) van!

A petrol car getting 10kms/L on the open road is pretty hungry. I have done 14.29kms/L in the E39 (Whangarei to Warkworth, gently, but at the speed limit and only me in the car), but more normal is about 12.35, with the 4 of us, heading from Whangarei up to BOI, Kerikeri etc. Around town (Whangarei - not really heavy traffic ) I get 10.9kms/L..... my Wife only manages 8.9kms/L, but doesn't drive faster than me - she seems to have an on/off pedal, not a throttle! I'm sure the manual helps a lot too.

Yep - gonna hard wire them We only have 3 cars now, and all German - the 2 that have cigarette lighters are live 24/7 too... so will need to mod them all

Paul at Milland! Ordered me a genuine remote key and a new drivers door lock mechanism, I had to provide proof of ownership (rego renewal form I think I used). The key was over $100 cheaper than the dealer I think too!

Are you sure the sump is leaking? The oil filter housing is far more likely - it wet's the entire bottom of the engine too. Oil - You want BMW LL-01 AND ACEA A3/B4 in either 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 or 5W-40. Castrol Edge at Ripco in 0W-40 A3/B4 is about $97 retail. Penrite 0W-40 A3/B4 is $50-something. There are others around, but tricky to find (although Repco is never usually the cheapest place to find anything, unless you have a good trade account). Theoretically, just about any oil will work. If you're going to follow the oil service lights on the dash, get the proper stuff. I get pretty much everything from Milland - he get's me genuine when I want it too.

I think the 4k/h thing works to a certain extent... purely because people actually THINK about driving, instead of sitting in a car waggling the wheel and levers. I can't believe how many drivers clearly have NO CLUE what's going on around them, or even where their own car is placed on the road. I have Dash cams, for those who aren't capable of staying over their side of the centre line, and are complete 'tards. They'll either end up with a police complaint filed (had a guy done once already for almost taking my whole family out "testing" his new car, didn't even have the camera then) or on you tube . I've got some spare cheapy chinese cameras, with an actual working memory card (Apacer) 8GB for $45 posted if anyone wants one. If you buy one somewhere, DON'T use the cheap-arse chinese memory cards that come with them - they usually aren't reliable. I'm prolly gonna fit one front and back of each car.

Hmmm... withdrawn.... says reserve was $29100! Wonder if it sold, or he changed his mind

I think you'll be well impressed with the manual, after being used to the auto. The M54 is a really flexible engine (after the vanos seals are done especially), it will pull well from low rpm (1500ish, but gets a lot better from about 2000), and is very happy to rev. They sound pretty nice too!

Stopping suddenly makes me ill. Ahhh... you've seen those brakepads too!