Allanw

WOW. That's quite a transformation. Not being rude, but it went from an ordinary piece of crap to pretty awesome looking!

Er... OK. They aren't particularly GOOD ,as such, just big. They are quite cheap of course. A brilliant conversion for an E39 Touring would be to build an M5 touring. Sure it's only a measly 4.9L V8, but it's actually good. 294KW and not 6.2 litres. Piles of torque, and heaps of revs available when required They sound good, and can still be supercharged If it WAS 6.2 L, it would theoretically be 372 KW standard, with all that torque available really low from the Dual Vanos and more revs to take advantage of gearing.

+1!!!!! Ever seen a standard manual Commodore SS around Pukekohe??? We used to do track days pretty often, and a relative had a new VT 6speed SS at the time. Sure they were only 5.7's, but he just barely managed to beat an NA Pulsar 1.8 GTI

Just needs a few more to be a real jap car: and maybe a little "Extra G" too

Awesome! Grey interior and NO wood It's only marginally cheaper than the 95 540iS 6 speed with 114K that sold a while back though... I wonder if it ever goes out in the wet?

I didn't know there was a pic above - they are blocked at work! there are slight differences for sport and non sport too - mostly camber I think??? I think it's different because they are lower, but I think camber isn't adjustable on the front, it's set by the bushes - maybe one is poked?

+1! my ultimate E39 = 530i manual touring 528 manual would be pretty cool. supercharger kit would probably be cheaper, easier and faster to fit than a conversion.

I think the tierods are front side on the 6's and rear side on the 8's, and the parts are quite different - so it could very well contribute to the wear you have. If it was only 3000 kms ago, I'd go back and mention it, and say it's done on the wrong car type. (actually, I help with my alignments, so it would be my fault if it was wrong )

Wurth are at 42 Hobill ave, manukau - they have reps all over the place though. Your local garage may be able to get it with their next order. Maybe normal glass sealant (for rubber sealed windscreens is sticky enough???). The wurth stuff won't be cheap (not for one tube especially!). I usually get a bunch of stuff at once and it's not so bad. this stuff is much thicker than I think it has, but is like the BMW stuff: Butyl Tape

Oh yeah... 350 pounds... interesting interior

If it's the rear doors in particular, it's probably the inner door seal sheet thingee - they are a moulded palstic liner that's stuck onto the inside, and water sneakes past them and leaks out between the door body and the inner door card. It sits on the kick plates, or if really bad, leaks into the rear footwells. The just need resealing, either with the correct tape from BMW, or butyl type sealer or similar. I used Wurth Dab-Off Glass Sealer - it doesn't set entirely, so you can still get the liner off to repair the window regulators when they break.

Even better: E39 520i M3 spec

Could just be a sway bar drop link - they're pretty common to knock, and are cheap/easy to replace. They tend to get worse and worse, until they are clicking over rough surfaces and small bumps too.

AWESOME! Death on Wheels!

It not even on all of them anyway is it? Isn't it (mostly) only for US, Japan and Aussie? my E39 doesn't have EGR or the pump, from factory.

You probably did the yellow one that went to Bonneville Doesn't need to be pretty, but it sounds like fun Maybe you should make some youtube videos instead

That's probably the best, reliable bang for buck upgrade - resolves possible future auto issues, and greatly transforms the car. I really enjoy our manual 525i, even though it's only a 2.5. You'd think it would be a slow barge, but it eats Dads manual E30 325i for breakfast - blitzes it! even with the extra weight.

Sweet! It's funny how interchangeable parts are, when you have the right tools! My mate is an engine reconditioner and is always making weird parts fit things (like holden pistons in a VW etc). The turbo fits way easier than in a 6 cylinder engine bay, too. I have a soft spot for a good turbo car, maybe not a BMW, but certainly like the flexibility. I had a Suzuki Cappuccino that was awesome, because the tiny little turbo would spool up in a split second to 12 PSI and the thing would take off, although because it was so small, it was out of breath by 8000 rpm, even though it still had another 1500 or so to go. anyway, more piccies!

The first two are liekly related to a vacuum leak on the intake (probably the rubber boot) if they are for a lean condition. The last two don't help much - You can buy scanners really cheap, that are BMW specific and usually give better codes/descriptions.

I haven't used them on an e39, but they were OK on my Suzuki Wagon R turbo. I'd just be concerned about the weight added. Lower unsprung weight helps with traction and feel.

That noise may just be the sway bar drop links - VERY common on E39's, and very cheap/easy to fix.

Price up OEM type shocks at Milland.co.nz. My m-tech ones were very reasonable, and they aren't difficult to fit. The Monroes are steel bodied (they were anyway) and the OEMs are aluminium - they are very light for such a big shock. Fitting only takes a couple of hours per side max (way faster in a workshop where 2 year olds haven't hidden half the tools). The same shop could fit the OEM type ones for you, probably.

Looks good! the 530i is my favourite too, but I have a 525i, because finding ANY manual E39 is hard enough, let alone a 3.0! Be sure to do the Vanos seals too - gain some low end, and a bit of economy usually. I really noticed the difference, but it may show up more with manual trans. http://www.beisansystems.com/index.html Also, check your DISA valve - only takes a few minutes, but you don't want the little pin to suck into a cylinder. http://www.germanautosolutions.com/buy_m54..._repair_kit.php

Good Skills!

1) previous owner is responsible, once you change it, you are responsible from that date. 2)yes, the rego will lapse after 1 year (2 years for cars 40+ years). The previous owner is also responsible, but there is no longer any ownership to change. Get a receipt from the seller stating you are purchasing the vehicle, and the amount, along with year, chassis number and previous rego number (if known) stating the car is no longer registered etc. Previous owner will get debt collectors on their tails if it's not paid. be aware that the car could still have $ owing against it - not sure how that works, but it is the same item, so you could still have it repossessed (If they could ever find you anyway!) Sounds interesting...