BreakMyWindow

Unless its a cordless. Then you'd have to use your mobile..

Better living everyone!

You need to post a vid of the tacho going off the clock. if you keep the stock e36 tacho.

^ Truth.

That's my ideal garage collection right there. Congrats!

Any one know where I can this stuff in NZ in the 500ml bottles? Have tried Supercheap auto. 20litre drums only. Repco, no joy.

That's a nice and dry rear main seal which is a bonus. Perfect opp to replace the bushings and clips for the gear shift while the drive shaft is off.

Bit more progress done today while I wait for new parts. HUGE thanks to Josh for helping me clean and re-solder the Vanos actuators. Vanos hubs and spring plate diaphragms removed but not before the upper chain cover comes off, there is a real b@stard of a bolt to get to, you can only turn it one flat at a time with a ring spanner, patience level 100 unlocked. The spring plates changed after 9/2001, these were made thicker, and the concaved plate is intalled back to front compared to the old style. This apparently helps significantly with vanos rattle, we'll see.

S62 in between the strut towers. That's all.

Bank 1 vanos unit dismantled, cleaned up and now waiting for new o-rings.

Fedex you rat f@cking bastards.... I guess aliens abducted my missing door gaskets huh?

Managed to set the timing for bank 1 exhaust cam after work last night. To be able to do so, as mentioned I needed the vanos on this cam to be in initial position. To achieve this I loosened the hub bolts to be able to relieve spring tension between the vanos hub and cam gear and wiggle the piston forward to it's initial position. I then followed the normal procedure to time up the cam. To get the cam to line up once you crank the engine over a few times to check it's position you need to adjust the cam slightly out of the timing window to compensate for slack in the chains. Then when you crank the engine over a few times and check it falls in the window like this : So with the timing issue out of the way, I now need to remove the vanos unit on the other bank of cams to replace a leaking o-ring.

I know the piston spins freely in the bore, I can turn the 10mm nut that joins the helical/splined gears to the piston. I havn't tried encouraging the piston to move up more in the bore as I retard the cam, but I can see now how I possibly could with a screw driver so will give that a try before loosening the spring plate tension. Cheers for the pointer Kelvin!

Hit a bit of a brick wall over the weekend. Got to the point of checking static cam timing, as suspected the exhaust cam on bank 1 was way off the alignment window on the first cam bearing cap. Correcting the cam timing is easy, however to do so the vanos gears need to be in the initial position. For the exhaust cam that's off time, the vanos gear cannot be retracted as per the proper procedure. This suggests the vanos piston is stuck or there is excessive spring plate tension which essentially sandwiches the vanos assembly to the cam gear. My only options are now to loosen all hub bolts and try move the vanos to initial position, then set static timing and proceed on with disconnecting the vanos units for a refurb. Or I remove the bank 1 vanos unit prior to setting the timing in one of 2 ways. if I have to remove the vanos unit prior to seting the timing, more investigation will be required to figure out what's causing the vanos gears/piston for this cam to get stuck. To set the timing on an s62, you need to spend about 20 mins on a bench grinder making a 27mm wrench to look like this This the bank 1 exhaust cam, as you can see the marking on the cam is way off the window in the bearing cap. All other cams ok. The position of the vanos piston needs to be close to flush at the end of the bore when the vanos and cams are in the initial position, as you can see here bank 1 exhaust piston is about half way up the bore, so needs further work to get it to the initial position before the cam timing can be corrected.

Agree.

I'd be reluctant to flush a more complex engine with vanos components that have very small oil relief holes and gallery ways etc. They may get clogged up.

Thanks. Gt1 is a dinosaur of an app, more so running on a vm.

Alex kidd in miracle world on the Sega master system II on a 14" Sony was my jam.

Wonder if BMW will make a special road going version of this.

This one's cleaner than the other for sure, but that's because it's all been apart recently and cleaned. Vanos adjustment units need to be removed in the next few days to get to this leak. Found one of the oil rails munted a bit. Where it's dented oil flows through to lubricate each cam bearing journal.

If I had a garage space big enough for 2 i'd be down!

Straight in to taking care of the important bits, the engine. Vanos test in GT1 tells me the exhaust advance value on Bank 1 in crank degrees is way out of wack, like 11 degrees out. Bank 2 passes with flying colours. No fault codes in relation to Vanos, so the issue points to being mechanical. I initially swapped the solenoid packs from bank to bank thinking it may be a solenoid issue. No joy, time to open the engine up. This engine is very clean on the inside. It was apparently rebult 35k ago with : -New oil control rings (excessive oil consumption) -rod bearings -all new chains, tensioners and guides Bank 1 valve cover was removed this evening in preparation to check static cam timing, as per the DIS recommendation during the Bank 1 vanos test. Bank 2 cover and some other bits to be removed in order to do the work. This is the underside of the valve cover on bank 1. Usually these are gummed up badly with old oil so it means one less cleaning job to do.

The new one needs vanos work. Cam timing on Bank 1 suspected off and a leak coming from in between bank 2 vanos unit and cylinder head upper cover. This ones going to be a garage queen for a few weeks. One will end up being for sale.

Might not run if the vanos units are removed...