BreakMyWindow

Is it a genuine M3? I know the guards and body kit make it look like one?

About 3 weeks ago Reppers had a 25% off stock not already on sale. 10w60sn happened to be 25% off which worked about to be $85 for 5 litres. Let's group buy a 20 litre drum!

Truely awesome. Great workmanship!

Careless f-wits. Have heard a few stories like this from that business. Know how ya feel!

Might sound way too loud as there are no cats in this one. Might need some resonators in between the oxy sensors to tone it down a bit.

Yeah a few weeks ago.

Either reppers or supercheap will have the 10w60 edge SN on sale soon. Can't buy it in 1l quantities here sadly.

On to the diff input seal. Took a mate and I 2 hours this morning. Everything went smoothly and was good to see the Guibo was recently replaced. As you can see the input seal was leaking badly and had made a mess that was not fun to clean up. Oxygen sensors unplugged, exhaust removed as one piece, driveshaft out and then on to cleaning up baked on diff oil. Stones caught in between the heat shield and driveshaft grinding away at the paint on the shaft Before After, with new input seal in place. New gearbox oil as recommended by Kayne Barrie. The old fluid looked original, black. Driveshaft back in, exhaust wrestled in to place and some more clean up. Job done! Next job is to install these.

Tough call to say it's based on either. The s70/2 is v12 but also Dohc with itb's. I'd say based on both.

Yep, plugged in to the pac-man port using a cable from ebay Lithuania. Took me hours to get DIS working, in the end I obtained a pre-configured image that just worked and passed the API test off the bat.

Youtube clip

Looks like the surgery has paid off with decent dyno results. Car is 100% stock. Being quite a hot day and the dyno cell being even hotter, the sucked air temp was 51 deg C. Not ideal for getting an accurate power run. Stock mapping retards ignition timing if the sucked air temp gets above 40 Deg C. So I came up with an idea... The inlet temp sensor is intergrated in to the passenger side maf.... After about 10 mins the sucked air temp reading was 28deg C. Good for getting a more accurate reading. Big fan to keep the engine cool. Trusty old IBM stink pad with INPA and DIS to keep an eye on the temperatures 234 kw at the wheels with sucked air temp @ 31 deg C.

Changed the radiator fan yesterday evening, the original one had a chip in it. Thanks to Hellbm for the replacement. Done over 200kms now since the surgery, no leaks so far. Off to get a few power runs at MCR automotive's dyno to see what she's making at the rear wheels.

Awesome Handling Kunt

Want!

I have an old stock clutch and flywheel for an e39 M5.

As per the title, my recently acquired e39 m5 keeps moving the steering wheel all the way inwards after unlocking the car with the key remote. The steering wheel moves up and down as per normal when turning the ignition on/off. In DIS I have disabled the seat and mirror setting key memory (used to move the seat and mirrors upon unlocking) but could not find any where where a separate steering wheel position memory can be configured for the key. Dr Google says this could be a fault with the seat switch (controls the seat movement AND steering wheel) But there are no issues with the seat adjustment. Any one had this kind of issue in their e39? Any ideas?

Yep. It's a way of life with di engines. It was one of the issues that put me off an RS4 wagon.

Naice! That Vanos unit looks so easy to get to.

Fixed. Got lucky... had a real good look at the wiring behind the door card, and re routed it in a more tidy fashion, either a piece of foam surrounding the top tweeter fell in between the big white plug and socket, or there was a kink in the wiring. All speakers working now. This is the first e39 i've owned with dsp. Sounds really good although lacking a wee bit of detail in the higher frequencies.

More progress. Bank 1 and 2 Upper timing cases off and on, then off and on again to seat them properly. Not before the bank 2 Vanos diaphragm springs arrived though. Bank 2 vanos unit dismantled, cleaned and new orings installed. Vanos units installed, cam timing checked, bank 1 exhaust cam slightly off. Adjusted and then cam timing re-checked, checked again, checked once more, then checked another one time for good luck. Timing now perfect. Vanos solenoids installed New cam bearing oiling rail for bank 2 intake. Old one was munted, most likeley someone leaning on it while working on the engine in the past. Radiator and other bits installed. Cam covers, new spark plugs, earth straps, coils installed. Coolant added and a once over for any loose nuts/bolts and she's ready for firing up. The engine started first pop, although very rattly, and lumpy. This lasted about 30 seconds and then it came right. Ran a vanos test on Bank 1. Success! Let the engine warm up so the air bleeds from the cooling system, then on to installing the rest of the bits Cleared all the fault codes in relation to the air mass sensors being unplugged and took it for a spin around the block. Need to check for leaks over the next few kms. This job took me ages. Going slowly, at least 50 hours. Saved a sh1t tonne in labour however and learned a great deal about how the vanos system works in the S62, which is something I've always been keen on.

Hrmmmmmm....

Even though that ad looked like a Forza opening video, I still want one!

I think it would come up nice with a good clean. Most people give their new cars a good clean upon acquisition... This one just needs extra cleaning and de-ricing.

Clearly the previous owner didn't like cleaning those wheels. Neither did i when i had some of these on another e39.