CamB

Oh yeah - a 38mm wastegate should be plenty, but the 20mm hole may be effectively reducing the flow to it causing the creep. Here's a couple more things to think about: - boost creep happens coz the wastegate can't vent enough exhaust. Whether the spring is 8psi or 12 psi, you will creep to the same total psi, since the problem is a lack of flow. The problem is not when the wastegate opens (ie the psi rating of the spring). the lower the psi you want to use, then better the wastegate setup has to flow - a bigger turbo can have less problem with boost creep, in particular a bigger turbine (as it needs more exhaust to work, and therefore less use of the wastegate) I think this is quite a good article about wastegates: http://www.034motorsport.com/article_info....c147nrprfsg3jf4

We have a top 5 incarceration rate in the OECD (we may actually be top 3 - can't find the stat). On that basis, you could argue we lock up too many people and for too long, in particular since I believe we have less crime than average.

Yeah, will be stunned if it actually sells, rather than being withdrawn or shill bid on by our drum loving friend. Trademe could also ban him (for about the 4th time!) before it sells. So many possibilities.

C/r is a bit high - its unlikely the ignition map you got is right for that much static comp? You did use ARPs right? You shouldn't NEED o-rings (based on what I've read) if your tuning is good. A couple of things to think about: - you need to check for boost creep - if it creeps with a 12 psi spring it will probably do it with an 8psi one too. The problem is too small a wastegate. - you need to get the timing and fuel right. Pay for a dyno - its cheaper than lots of headgaskets - full boost in 4th? 2 days into your new licence?

Somehow seems to have picked up on a comment on a BMW 1602 / 2002 ---> although headlights don't interchange so even that is wrong.

Stink! You should look into the timing as well. 12psi is not THAT high.

That's awesome! What did you do for the bellhousing?

I CBF reading it: 1) is it going? 2) properly? 3) how'd he get around the electronic issues?

I've noticed the going rate on Trademe is more like $500 even for some semi-decent plates. I suspect they aren't actually doing that well. It's arguably a dead end business - their remaining product is becoming less desirable.

Thanks for that - good stuff. Its not entirely clear whether swapping to the Variable M Sport LSD is desirable - it seems that people have done both. I think I'd still prefer an uprated clutch pack diff (ie the Evo one) but then again that's what I am used to. I guess put me in the queue for a 3.62/4 (or 3.73 preferably) if they become easier to get. I'm in no rush but might do it one day. I am keen for a lighter flywheel too if the gearbox ever comes out. Note: A regular M3 should think about a 3.46 medium case - they don't have 6th gear and a 3.64 would be very short in top gear.

Would be keen to read a link on it if you've got it handy. Cheers.

It's moments like that where I tend to look at the fee involved, then make myself as unpleasant as necessary to ensure I get some "value" out of the deal. It's petty, I know, but monopoly charging pisses me off.

So, they only change the ring and pinion? Or the whole diff/insides? Westy - its hard to find decent ratios. I'd go shorter again than 3.62, if I could find one. Maybe a 3.73 or even a 3.91 (6th gear would become as short as 5th, which is ok for me).

Me too - I mean the ratio is slightly more favourable in the E46 M3 LSD (and I'd personally love a shorter ratio for mine), but for my money I'd take a freshened up and higher lockup plate diff to some fancy variable one. Is the "Variable" part self contained? Or does it need to talk to the ECU?

Hmmm, since our baby came along, my wife has been talking about an auto - should I be worried?

Ooops - you're right. :o I was doing numbers in my head. If you stick with a ratio front/rear you are ok. If you add 100lb front/rear, not so much. Either way, what I really don't know is how to change the theoretical to the practical --> what difference does all this make in real life. Theoretically my rear springs are woefully underdone, but the car was pretty well balanced.

When RaceFX say they have success with the lower rate springs on the Z4, if its coilover the motion ratio might be over 90% since the spring is moving almost directly over the hub. This means that 250lb for a coilover is probably the same stiffness as 500lb in the standard E30 location. If they say it will work then its worth trying. I am sure to some extent it will also depend to some extent on your choice of rear sway bar and the weight distribution as a race car (nothing in the rear half = front weight bias, at least in my car).

Incary - try running the same equations for the 600lb front and 1125lb rear and you'll see what I mean James - so is it coilover rear? Or using the standard inboard spring perches on the trailing arm?

I do as well, so will look this evening. A quick google suggests 138 teeth for M20 and 112 for M10, so doesn't sound like that's the problem.

The Golf that was my old man's was chipped from new - 190hp - and the clutch is still fine. The clutch in the Skoda, with at least 220hp (downpipe, injectors, REVO chip, and its the bigger K03S) feels more like it may struggle in time. That's not the clutch's fault.

So what is buggered on the starter? The teeth? Someone who can should count the teeth on the flywheel - its not impossible that you might have an M10 one (they have less teeth).

I think the S50 ECU can be remapped - you're right. The trick is finding someone who (1) can and (2) is going to know what to do to get from S50 --> S54 (which may not be that big a deal as I understand they are reasonably similar). Shouldn't you take your car down from Trademe

That one has the S50 ECU, which seems like kind of a waste unless you can readily get the S50 ECU chipped in a way that unlocks the extra S54 goodness.

Fair enough too. I've got no idea what the failure rate is - I just googled etc and found it wasn't common (unlike the Jatco jerk, or E36 headliners falling down, or Vanos problems).

I am pretty sure based on a few conversations and a look around the internet that the Skoda gearbox failure was very uncommon, and more a case of "if you make 1 million cars stuff fails".