CamB

I actually think its kinda stupid for actual driving - don't get me wrong, they look extremely hot, but both use 195 front, 215 or 225 rear on 8+/9+" wheels. It would ride and corner like crap and the geometry would be screwed. But it undeniably looks hot. Maybe you're right Riley - "street driven" ---> would be hopeless on a track. What I really wonder is if they actually drive around like that, or just sack them for special occasions?

The different numbers are difference intake and exhaust duration - an asymmetric cam. I **think** less exhaust duration means less overlap and more civilised at idle (ie what Dan says).

Figure out what has 17lb injectors (I have no idea, sorry) - try a commodore if you want cheap. You should also figure out once and for all if a new cam needs new rockers. I chickened out and have ordered new rockers for the M10, but I am getting the Ireland engineering ones as I want the flexibility to rev a bit higher than M10 rockers will generally allow, so the new cam was a good excuse for new rockers... (edit) Good points above - my M10 head needed new valve guides and a skim, and I had all the valve springs tested and they are fine, although now I've ordered new ones (see above - higher revs). Schrick refers to valve springs as "optional" with the 284.

Its great to see those seats mounted in a car that deserves them

It's not quite that simple! I choose to rent at the moment as its considerably cheaper than paying a mortgage on the same property. With house prices declining, the only pockets I am lining are my own. In fact, such is the relationship between renting vs buying in my area, house prices would need to increase by at least 5% per annum for me to prefer buying over renting. If they are flat for a year they have to play catchup to maintain the relationship. I actually quite like renting, but then again I have an excellent landlord who appreciates me (pay on time, don't complain, 2 and a bit people in a 3 bedroom house not full of partiers). Having said all that, I will buy a house soon - new baby and wife tell me to. I can't put them off any longer.

I would ask my good friend google. I like Imps - awesome little Rear engine / RWD. There was a very cool looking one at a hill climb I went to a couple of years ago - it looked like it was going 200kph standing still ... which is good coz it kept breaking.

My only advice would be to consider carefully (despite what everyone will tell you) that property is some sort of wunderkind of asset classes that can always outperform other asset classes.

Toe in I think. That's my vote. A fairly effective way to avoid rear toe/camber problems is to not lower the car too much. JiB and I had long arguments about this. He wanted baller low, I wanted his car to go around corners well and not bottom out.

Some people do what you say ---> slot the hole, no eccentrics, adjust the camber and toe on an alignment machine, then weld the washers in place. The key is the alignment machine.

So are the 540i medium case or large case? Or neither? Hmmm - more research suggests possibly neither, in which case disregard my previous post.

If (and its a big if) the internals are a standard BMW medium case ZF LSD you could swap in any medium case centre. ****IF**** thats the case.

How much offset???

Looks hot! Will give the WOF guys a fright! Reminds me of this awesomeness: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....p;hl=fabricated

You need to measure to properly work out compression ratio, especially if you're getting the head decked: - measure the amount the pistons are above/below the top of the block - work out what size the dome is (can find this out online if you know what the pistons are) - bore, stroke - measure (cc) the head - plug details into a spreadsheet with the gasket thickness I'd have a go at working it out for you, but I'd note that internet research said my 318i M10 head would be 63cc, but it actually measured at 58.5cc - this made a difference of 0.75:1, so I am glad I had it measured... (I suspect the head had been skimmed before). I found conflicting evidence on the thickness of the stock gasket. I ended up with 0.051" or 1.3mm but don't trust that - measure your gasket you took off.

I reckon it would need a hood scoop - too tall to fit on a 2002. And a new tunnel...

I work out a 0.140" would change c/r by about 1.5 (heaps). 8:1 pretty boost friendly.

Presumably not available for me as you already told me. Should feel good with wheels that light.

elmarco - that's the point - to irritate the purists. I admire that bit.

Holy compressor surge batman! I dont really get it - if a v8 fits, turbo that. Why settle for 1000hp, LOL. If you still want culture shock, use a Japanese V8 (or a Mopar!). I'd prefer an understressed 1000hp

I'd so rock the green one. I like the body kit. I've even got 85-90% of a manual conversion for it. Its a shame its down south, and I have a wife who makes the rules.

Probably need a cert - read the rules carefully.

I bet the idle is stink because its running a big mother of a cam (or cams) - no way you'd get to that sort of power at that boost without them.

LOL - one of the problems with the idle stepper thingame is that its not supposed to be there (at least not on any M10 I have fiddled with), just an air bypass valve (which is missing).

It's only an exhaust leak. That was an almost permanent feature of my 2002 (I must have driven home from the track sounding like a tractor on at least 3 occasions). I'm hoping the new exhaust setup will be a little more airtight.

I thought that leak was a factory feature? Jokes, just jokes.