pureboiracer

well ac does usualy drain quite alot of power. so the power loss with the ac on should be expected. with the vibration if it only does it when the ac is on then i would be looking at the ac pump also what is the idle speed when its vibrating as a low idle speed can cause the engine to shudder. just be warned when you fit a pod filter to a injected car expect somthing to go up the shitter. as even if you have a air flow meter or a map sensor it doesnt always detect the extra airflow caused by the pod filter

yeh sometimes its a b**ch to get a responce around here. the first thing i would check would be my fuses. providing they are ok then you need to look a little deeper. my coolant temp sometimes didnt work but it was only an intermitant thing. if your not to mechanicaly minded get a garage to check it out. the coolant temp circuit is as simple as they come and shouldnt take a garage more than 30 min to find the fault providing the garage know what they are doing. the rpm one could be slightly more complicated. and the economy is linked to the rpm. but the first place i would look would be the fuses. failing that start testing circuits

when you go to start it does the starter do anything or make any kind of noise? and can you crash start it? the only way they would be related is if the brakeligh wire managed to short with the starter moter under the dash and burn it out

brakelight switch will be around your brakepedal somewhere. not sure on exact location. u should be able to figure out where when you look. heres what u need to do. 1. get a multimeter. 2. conect meter between light pos and earth. if it reads 12.5ish volts the fault is between the lights and ground. if no voltage do the following. 3. conect the multi meter before the switch and earth is somewhere. u should get around 12.5ish volts. 4. test for voltage after the switch when you push the brake pedal. u should get same voltage. 5. if you can find the brake light relay test for voltage at pin 86 or 85. one of them should have voltage when you push the brake pedal. and if you flick the multimeter into resistance. the little horse shoe symbol. and conect the other terminal. (without voltage) to the multimeter and the other wire on the meter to earh you should get a low reading. prefrably under 1 ohm 6. test for voltage in at pin 30 on the relay. and check the resistance of pin 87 and earth. that should indicate what part of the circuit the fault is it. if theres no voltage at 30 when conected to meter and ground then the fault is between there and batery if there high restistance on pin 87 or the meter says something like ol. then the fault is between there and the lights. if no voltage at 86/85 then the problembs between there and the switch. if high resistance on the other pin. then fault between there and earth. hope this helps. if you need help. call me 0212158039 i am in wellington

im 17 and i got insurance on my modded 325i that im going to race. on my restricted with thrd party for only $220 a year with state. not expensive atall

yes at long last the m20b25 engine is running. well almost......... i put a shrick 304 cam in it and managed to get it to idle around 2000rpm. but as soon as i touch the throttle. unless i rev it VERY slowly it just chokes the engine out like releasing the clutch with the handbrake up. as soon as i let the throttle go it goes back to normal.... any ideas anyone? i have worked out that its not a fuel problem. may the cam need to be timed slightly different? suggestions apreciated. cheers oli

if the fuel pump is noisy you know its working. there always noisy. just check all the conections under the dash. i suspect it has to be linked to you pulling the dash out

hey guys. was just wondereing if you know of anywhere i can get a variable cam timing sprocket for a m20b25? any ideas appreciated. cheers. oli

i ran into same problem. they are 16 mm hex bolts. you could go buy a hex peice for around 10 buks or use the starter moter bolt. it fits like a glove. wind 2 nuts onto it and undo the bottom one while doing up the top one. they can be pretty tight btw

does anyone know where i can get a mechanical pressure regulator. that does not run off manifold vacume and can handle around 3 bar? prerebaly an adjustable one? cheers oli

for the trouble your going to have splicing all those wires i would just go motronic. get a new loom with computer to mach. much easyer and will work better. talk to ray 0212hellbm he will sort u out

the diff ratio is the balance between fast accelaration and top speed. if you got a lower ratio you would accelerate faster. a higher ratio means the car will be slower accelerating but will go faster overall. as far as im aware any diff out of an e30 should fit

what i did was this....... went to bunning. bough myself to (L) shaped brackets. reasonably strong. about an inch or so in width. a pack of screws at the longes an inch long. make sure there decent screws. get a drill and a drill peice about 1.5 mm smaller than the screw and bolt it down just on the back of the box just be carefull where you drill. when you take them back out ou cant see the screw holes in the floor and the sub still operates fine and it aint gunna move nowere

ahhh man. problem after problem. ok so the deal is my e30 with its newly aquired m20b25 engine with motronic 1.3 system is in.. everything is fine. exept the fuel pump doesnt run. i am running the old (pre facelift) body loom along with fuel pumps. i have narrowed down the problem there is power in both parts of the fuel pump relay. if i bridge it the fuel pump runs. the ground from the low current side of the relay goes to the ecu wich then grounds it accordingly. so i have been testing wires. i have established that the grounds from the ecu are fine. and the ecu is receiving a signal from the igniton to turn on. so i think the problem may lie within the ecu..... can anyone tell me anywhere i can get my ecu tested or weather i should just get a replacement? or does anyone know of anything else it could be??? any help greatly appreciated cheers oli

its called an adaptive shift. should aslo work if you jus take your car for a good thrashing every now and then

whats the difference between the z1 discs and the stock ones? and whats the diff in calipers too?

problemb no1. i am doing that conversion. and so far i have not managed to get the f.ing ecu to work so it may not be compatible but i realy doubt it. no.2 they only way you will know if it is the rocker or the lobe is to pull the head apart and mesure it all against the specs. not something you could knock off in a couple of hours. if its the cam i guess you could get it reground. no.3 whats your clutch like as a worn clutch can cause bad gearchanges either that or the sincros.

ahh yeh thanks. i have found out what they are. one is for the aircon the other is for the temp sensor to the ecu and the other one i am not sure but i think it runs to terminal 28 on the ecu. i cannot recal properly as do not have the info infront of me. anyone got anything that tells me what is on each ecu pin? cheers

i found a couple of random plugs under the dash. they come off the engine loom just before the ecu plug. one is a 3 pin connector and the other is a one pin connector. anyone know where they go? as i cant see anywhere for them to plug into

na its not the fpr as wen the engine is cranking theres going to be no vacume. the problem is something around the ecu. the earth wire from the low side of the fp relay goes to the ecu wich im asuming breaks and connects the earth to controll when the fuel pump is switched on. but for some reason it doesnt want to earth it hmmmmm

driving to my mates house in wellington one night and felt a bit of shuddering didnt think too much of it. came up to some traffic lights and a clk had stopped in front of me. put the brakes on and found i had none. ripped up the handbrake swerved round the clk sideways (it was raining too) just squeezing somehow inbetween the clk and the sidewalk. went and parked it up. went to go and get a tow truck to take it back to my house and found out that i was missing my $600 sterio along with my passenger window. got home and pulled of the wheels and found i was missing a caliper. and my wheel was soaked in brakefluid.

hey guys. has anyone got any wiring diagrams for a motronic 1.3 ecu? and the loom for it? cheers.

found a random cellphone in there once. still have no idea whos it was

in the e30 nothing atall. no carpet no spare wheel no jack no arial nothing exept the rear lights and the wiring to them. haha

hey guys. sorry about all the posts. so im working through my problem the fuel pump wasnt going so i rewired it. then it went but was flooding the engine so it wouldnt start. i managed to switch the fuel pump on for a few seconds before i cranked it then turned it off and the car would start but as soon as i turned it back on it would drown the engine and die. i pulled the injector rail out and cranked it over. good news. the injectors arnt staying open and they have a good spray....... so the only thing i can think of it being now is the pressure regulator is not working correctly and just holding to high a pressure. agree?