Jacko

Its a pity that bathurst isnt what it used too be. Same cars, in different clothes, racing each other has way less appeal.

I got some coilover questions to throw into the mix - Adjustable konis and H&R springs = $2000+ BC Gold/XYZ coilovers = Less than $1300 NZ+welding etc so maybe $1500. The H&R and konis you are limited to rebound adjustment. XYZ/BC gold's have height, front camber plates, and rebound adjustment + you can specify spring rates. I have a mate who builds drift cars, half of them run BC golds, and according to him they have some muppet drivers who smash them over curbing etc sideways, and he has never seen any failure from a BC gold. Is there any ACTUAL quality difference between the two setups, not "thats chinese/taiwanese rubbish" quality perceptions, but has anyone actually run both setups? Be interested in hearing your thoughts. I had adjustable konis before and know the deal with them, yup they are good, but are they that much better to justify the 25%+ higher price? The current suspension in my E30 cost $800 for springs and shocks (german supersport cup kit), and on a cost Vs. Grin factor it is far superior to the 944's koni's. Im in the same bucket as APT, and im sure many others. My car is a daily driver, but id like to take it too the track and have some fun, which is where the adjustment of the coilovers appeals. Can run it sedate every day but wind it all up hard as nails on a track day+play with camber etc just to see what happens! Also the ability to get the ride height/stance *just* right appeals, Too many times ive bought lowering springs and gone, "damnit I wish it was 10mm lower at the front". Dont wanna slamming and rimming, just have it sitting right! Does anyone here actually use BC golds/XYZ/Ground controls? Seems everyone has jumped on the H&R+koni bandwagon which kinda skews the opinions On another note - Whats the deal with e30 rear coilovers in the stock position not being "real" coil overs? I realise the spring and shock are in different positions, but whats the downside too this? Ive seen big threads online about people converting the rear end of an e30 into a true coilover setup, and having to reinforce the stock strut towers to take the loads of the spring as well. I dont see the point, am I missing something?

FWIW, you can probably find PTFE stainless braided hose that has a higher rated pressure for less $ per meter EDIT - You learn something new everyday, its not the pressure, its the permeation and resulting cracking http://www.gates.com/common/downloads/file...echTipsForm.pdf

Last I looked at fuel injection hose for my E30 it was ~$50 a metre, at trade price, so my money (without looking into the specs) is on it not being up to the pressure, either that or you just got the mad deal!

Oh I thought all e30's do that? That must be Fing scary too drive, crazy crazy torque.

Tried EBay? I picked up a chip from a guy sapporo10 http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...tab=AllFeedback Cost me around $50NZ for a euro spec'd M50B25 chip, took a week to turn up in a 3M antistatic box, comes with very detailed instructions too. I havent installed it yet, but he has some great feedback so I expect it will be at least a half decent map.

I had the swine flu last year, according to the doc, now I seem to have swine flu Mk2, am just getting over it now 7 days later. Been around about 6 guys at work, one ditches it and then someone else picks it up... One thing that seems odd about this "batch" is that you get the hell croaky voice, sound like a $2 hooker for a few days...

That cage is a work of art. Good to see 1/8th cleco's being used on something cool (instead of planes!)

^ That is awesome.

Thanks man, do you have a link to any LVVTA doc that applies? Ive hunted but maybe I missed it, found one that is pretty basic and only mentions coilovers once... I assume by load point they refer to the spring perch? I wonder what certification is needed with the crack testing, I have access to free NDT

What coilovers have you played with APT? Im in the market for some soon, hard work sorting out whats good whats bad and whats required for a cert.

LSD for $60.. you jammy bugger Whatya rekon about the HD clutch (stage 2 or whatever its called?) I have one for my swap.

Funny how its one of those love it or hate it cars. I remember reading a driving review of an RS-X in an old magazine, it went something like "It an Angry cat, that sneaks into corners and pounces out, but only if you time the boost lag just right, or you end up in the ditch"

Its 100% an ignition thing man

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-287347105.htm

^ Oath.

Very cool man. A mate of mine has an FJ20ET/Link for sale, it was going to go into his datsun 1600 project. He keeps telling me to ditch the M50 and stick the FJ in for near the same price.. and 400 rwp.... Its hard work saying no. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-319873022.htm

Check for dodgy wiring, loose connectors etc too. Never been convinced about magic sh*t in a bottle either. My e30 did similar stuff, drove me nuts as I couldnt work it out for weeks. Thought my coil was dying. Turns out the previous owner had installed a kill switch and jammed it under the dash, not secured, one of the crimped terminals to it had broken wiring and would kill the ignition randomly (braking/accelerating etc) Id look at your coil too, a mates Mk2 cortina GT had similar issues too your e30, after running out of ideas we changed the coil thinking maybe it was breaking down internally when the engine bay got warm, and it seems to have been the problem.

Telecom Ill test it again on vodafone and see if actually 6x faster like the nice sales man said

Sliding rails and brackets from NZKW on tardme. Theyre OK, the only thing I could find locally. Mounts line up with the E30 fine, but the rails dont fit the mounts/seats amazingly. With a bit of force/a round file to slot holes it lines up, but its not 100%. Seats sit a couple of cm too far towards the centre, its not terrible and you do get used to it, just a little annoying. If I did it again, Id probably get the sliding rails, but fabricate my own mounts to make it all fit a bit better. Even with the sliding rails your ass is a few cm lower to the floor than stock seats, without the rails you might as well be sitting on the carpet! The mounts themselves are a pretty low profile.

Sorry if its a repost, but this thing is crazy fast.

New wheels Looks lower with the wider wheel and right offset filling the gaurds better, feels much more planted and grippy around corners too, wider track and better rubber FTW! Armstrong steering is feeling particularly heavy when parking now. Considering hiring it out as gym equipment

Hmmm... Vodafone "representative" not "salesman" just came around, offering ADSL2+ for $10 cheaper than our current telecom plan with 10GB more and a free ADSL 2+ router. Aparently ADSL2+ went in our street last week. Anyone on vodafone?

200km is barely broken in

Question number 1 - Does engine check light output M50B25 E34 3.1 DME (Pin 8) simply provide a ground to the bulb? My car has no ECL, but id like to install something to read the codes, and to tell me if all is well! Im thinking I could simply install a bulb/LED, wire some juice to one side of it and run an extra wire to the C101/M50 loom Is it that simple, or is there some electrickery in the output from the DME? Question number 2 - Ive read conflicting storys about M50B25 auto DME's in manual cars. Do I need to ground pin 65 on the the DME to tell it its in park/neutral? Or will it start and run fine without it ground? Question number 3 - Am I right in assuming that road speed, RPM, fuel consumption run through the X20 on an M50'd E36/34 to the instrument cluster, but on an E30 run directly from the M20 DME to the instrument cluster? (I recall seeing the wiring for this under my dash, but am not 100%). So in theory I can just run these three wires up to the e30 C101/fusebox from the cluster and splice them into the M50 E34 loom that way? Having some wiring diagrams to look at for a 323 would obviously answer these, but I cant find any Cheers